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Drill chuck on and off's?

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  • Drill chuck on and off's?

    I just ordered a couple arbors for my drill chuck, its a Jt 6 1/2" and i already had a R8 arbor, now I'll have a MT3/JT6 arbor (for rotary table) and a 5/8 straight shank to JT6 (for quick change Tool post), my question being is what do you guys use to take the chuck off one JT 6 and put it on the other without butchering anything? thanks.

  • #2

    To remove the chuck use a pair of "Chuck removal wedges" They come in pairs and have the correct gap for the chuck and arbor. Any good supply catalog should show a photo of the set. You might have to drill the internal back of the chuck and use a punch if the arbor does not have a shoulder for the wedges. Another option is to drill the arbor for a cross pin so the wedges will work.



    • #3
      They make wedges for the press fit chucks - different set for each taper. Check out, search on drill chuck wedge


      • #4
        Sorry for thinking outloud before a reply but why wouldnt they use the leverage of the chuck itself (be it keyless or not) to "self pry" itself off of the arbor in the fully extended opening mode? if not that do you think it worthwhile to bore and tap a hole directly in the center of the chuck so an allen bolt can be inserted through the chuck opening?


        • #5
          Order a set of Jacobs wedges. Or, you can sometimes use a pair of hardened dowels to persuade the two apart. And on some chucks the center can be drilled-n-tapped to put a screw in for pressing out the arbor.

          But this is not something you want to do on a regular basis as a normal mode of operation.
          Master Floor Sweeper


          • #6
            The allen bolt through a tapped hole in the chuck is the method to use in removing a Jacobs chuck from it's arbor when the wedges don't work or can't be used.

            BadDog is correct however, the installation of a chuck on a JT is considered semi permanent and the intent is not to swap adaptors on a regular basis.
            Jim H.


            • #7
              You don't. You mount them on the Jacobs taper and leave them. If you need to istall a chuck in an R-8 taper you get another chuck.

              Jacobs tapers were intented for semi-permanent mounts. If you try to mix and match among several shanks you wind up with spinners and drop offs.


              • #8
                Ditto on what Forrest said. If you try to go swapping them around, you'll just begging for problems.

                If you want to use a drill chuck in multiple places, you may be able to use a straight shank. For instance, use your 5/8" straight shank in a 5/8" collet on your milling machine. You don't need the R8 adapter.
                Try to make a living, not a killing. -- Utah Phillips
                Don't believe everything you know. -- Bumper sticker
                Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
                There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
                Law of Logical Argument - Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
                Don't own anything you have to feed or paint. - Hood River Blackie


                • #9
                  Yeah....once them JT6's are banged in its almost impossible to separate them...wedges or no wedges ...without damaging something or buggering it up.

                  you will have to knock so hard on the wedges ...that they will indent what ever they come up against.

                  I've read about people cooling down the arbor and heating up the chuck ...and in conjunction with the wedges... though ...they still had themselves a difficult job on .

                  all the best..mark


                  • #10
                    Expanding just a bit further on what Forrest said, in the past several years I have acquired a bit of a collection of drill chucks. I have about 4 or 5 that have adapters for my SB tailstock and even one with a taper for the headstock (handy for drilling work mounted on the cross slide). It is very handy to change chucks instead of tools in the chuck. It can save a lot of time when you are making multiple parts. In addition I have two for the mill/drill, two for my Unimat and a couple that I have not even put an adapter on yet. They are handy for some hand work. I frequently mount a countersink or drill in them for deburring and other work. Good for cleaning out a hole with a reamer also.

                    I look for sales and buy them as they become available. A couple of times I purchased two at a time when the price was right.

                    In short, use your money to buy chucks, not adapters and wedges. You will have a lot more versatility in the end. And you won't have problems from damaged Jacobs tapers.
                    Paul A.
                    SE Texas

                    Make it fit.
                    You can't win and there IS a penalty for trying!


                    • #11
                      I would certainly concur that they were not intended to be regularly disassembled at "that end". It has to be a great opportunity to ding something up. I have an arbor with only a small ding...and darned if that thing will never run true.

                      Several have mentioned the removal wedges. These are ordered in a specific Jacobs taper as they have a notch just big enough for the taper...and should be used that way. I had intentions of getting some in say J-3 as they would be "big enough" for other tapers, but that is a bad idea. I borrowed several sizes in the end and figured out just why they are made to fit.

                      To save you some some mentioned to me when I asked about removing my Jacobs *keyless* chuck from a taper here a while back-- DO ****NOT**** center drill a *keyless* chuck. You will ruin it. Interestingly, however, for a regular keyed chuck, Jacobs even mentioned the "center drill followed by the center punch" solution on their web site. Apparently, the buggers are case hardenend such that the center is still relatively soft.

                      Paul Carpenter
                      Mapleton, IL


                      • #12
                        Yeah I removed one a few years back, to permit swapping the better of two chucks from a MT to a straight arbor. The wedges didn't work. Heating/cooling didn't work. Had to do the drill hole in back and punch it out AFTER heating chuck and cooling arbor. Found it had been loctited in.

                        But after that experience I view the mounting not as semi-permanent, but ABSOLUTELY permanent. in "til hell freezes over". ...or at least til the arbor gets damaged beyond use for some reason. That's the only reason I'll remove another.
                        Lynn (Huntsville, AL)


                        • #13
                          Damn,,, thanks for the advise everyone, sounds like im going to use the 5/8" and that will do most things i need it for, eventually i will get more chucks so i never have to remove, I really didnt think it was going to be an issue for them losing thier grip after awhile, there must be slight material loss each time or buring, so much for my frugal attemp at being cheap...


                          • #14
                            Last but not least --- what do you guys do when you put one on? do you just press it on with the load from the mill handle or do you apply more force or impact with peices of wood inbetween or what? thanks...


                            • #15
                              I'd go easy on using the mill as any sort of arbor press

                              I've had my Bridgeport all apart and there isn't much in the way of teeth in the back of the quill....and if you break them, it is pretty much catastrophic....your quill is toast and is hand lapped to the bore.

                              I was tought to whack the back of the arbor with a hammer (I use brass) while holding the chuck in your hand to seat it. You won't apply too much force that way while still getting the job done.

                              I read, however, somewhere else that the right way was to push it in the back of the chuck and then drop it arbor end down (using the weight of the chuck) onto the top of your vise or an anvil etc. I would imagine this would also help put a lid on the maximum force used to seat it (determined by the weight of the chuck).

                              Paul Carpenter
                              Mapleton, IL