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Lifting Lathe ???

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  • Lifting Lathe ???

    I am about ready to lift my new lathe onto its stand. Manual doesn't give lifting instructions (Birmingham CT-1440G).

    From othe manuals, seems bes to run eye bolt down throu web of bed castin close to headstock. My bed here is about 10" high, bottom to ways 9tall section because of gap bed). I was wondering if I need to get under the bottom of the casting (with a cross plate), or if I might cut a plate to fit between the sides of the bed casting, and lift under the web. I could use a shorter eyebolt.

    Anothr thought might be to bolt a plate in where the gap peice goes. You'd be closer to the headstock, but I'm not sure how big the bolts would be, and I wouldn't want to damage the gap recess.

    Any thoughts?

    uute

  • #2
    uute
    Yes use the eye bolt and a supporting plate underneath. you will need to move the tail stock and carrage to balance the lathe on this single lifting point. Make sure nothing rubs against the machined surfaces - use wood blocking as required to make sure it stays put.

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    • #3
      Beware of eyebolts that are not one piece or welded, because they can open up.

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      • #4
        good morning.

        from experience, it works better with 2 [TWO] lifting points. i used a nylon sling and 2 blocks of 4x4 that [more than] spanned the width of the bed. this way it sort of balances itself and doesn't want to slide one way or the other. you still need to run the t/s and c/s to the end of the bed to balance out the headstock.

        i did this with a 14 x 40 generic chinese machine [weight about 2200#] and a couple of kids to help. best idea is to lift slowly and see where the point of balance is. don't ever pick it up any higher than you need to. the higher it is the longer the fall if something is not right.

        i don't want to scare you but a ton of iron in the air is a lethal weapon if you don't 'think it out' first. be safe.

        beyond that, good luck. this is not a problem ifyou think first. be sure what you are using to pick it up has the capacity to do that.
        bill
        ........i dremel. therefore i am..........................

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        • #5
          Do not remove the gap. You won't get it back in. I wouldn't trust the tapped holes in the casting for lifting.

          I use 2 nylon straps and pieces on 1 1/2" round stock wider than the bed casting through the loops in the slings and move the tail stock and carrage for balance. As said before don't lift any higher than necessary and do it slowly.

          If you have two furniture dollys put one under each end. I paid $19 each for mine and well worth the price. I use them for all kinds of things. They are good for about 900 lbs each. Let the hoist support some of the weight. This arrangement will help steady the load as you move it in place.

          Joe

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          • #6
            This is sort of on and off the topic, but the question is if one only had a fork lift to lift a lathe and the lathe was not on any type of pallet or dunage, how would you approach this? Example, taking lathe off of flat bed semi. THRUD, YOU'RE BACK, HOPE YOUU'RE FEELING BETTER!!!!!!!
            John B

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            • #7
              JR,I ran in to this last year at work we got in a used 26"-120"gearhead about15,000 pounds it had factory lift points (holes in the lathe bed castings to recieve round bar so I knew where the lift points where and I lined up on center between the holes and cranked the carrage down to the end I usually clean the forks to get rid of any grease and pad the tops with thin rubber to prevent sliding I unload from the side of the truck so all I have to do is lift it clear of the deck and have the driver ease out from under it and lower it close to the ground without having to travel with the load all the way up like has been said before keep it low as possible also when using a fork lift pay close attention to the location of leadscews,feed shafts,handwheels and the like.Oh ya make sure the forklift you are using is big enough for the job.And always remember cast iron will bust like a china plate!
              I just need one more tool,just one!

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              • #8
                Thanks All,

                The 2 points on a cross beam seems logical (is that why it didn't occur to me?) and would allow a lifting "point" nearer the headstock. It'll be a couple of weeks or more before I'm completely ready, but I may post here about how it goes. (I'll be too proud not to!

                uute

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                • #9
                  The single point is all that is required - honest. You need to move the carrage and tailstock away from the headstock to balance the lift. Beleive me, they do this all the time - and yes use forged lifting eye. You have a greater chance of damaging the lathe with a two point lift than the single point lift.

                  ****Only use a two point lift if the manual tells you to!****

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                  • #10
                    [QUOTE]Originally posted by uute:
                    [B]I am about ready to lift my new lathe onto its stand. Manual doesn't give lifting instructions (Birmingham CT-1440G).

                    One other aspect: Use some rope from the top of the lifting point (crane or whatever)
                    to each end of the lathe to act as a snubber if the lathe begins to tilt one way or the other. The rope will limit the tilt and allow you to adjust the balance with less excitement than seeing the whole thing slide down to the floor at an angle rapidly approaching 90deg. The rope has nothing to do with the lift, only to prevent excessive tilting. Steve
                    Steve

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                    • #11
                      When you lift any thing (rigging) remember to rig above the center of gravity (CG). CG is pretty high on most machinery. Rig below the GC and, first chance it gets, the machine WILL BE rigged below (it will flip).
                      Single point of lift is safest if the machine lifts level- just lift an inch or so and if it lifts all parts of the ground it is balanced- then deliberately tilt the machine. If it returns to level its almost certain that its rigged above the GC.

                      If you must use a two or more point of lift use a "spreader bar" of ssufficient strength to lift from a singlle point on thespreader bar. The forces in a angled lift rope, chain or cable can be such that you bend the machine or break a lifting rope, chain or cable. At 45 degrees angle or less the forces build rapidly towards infinity - in other words the stresses in the lifting material would allow you to snap your cables with a small load aand big cable. A good example is a tight metal strapping band will cut into a piece of oak, and stretch enough for a cutting tool to be inserted. Just draw out the force triangle aand look at the ratio ofthe forces involved. SSometing gotta give and too often the lifter (man) or machine is damaged.

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                      • #12
                        I use a single point hook-up on lathes thru 13 inch, then I use two slings or forks under the bed depending on the lathe. I prefer to use slings and round bars thru the lifting holes which your 14x40 has.

                        Today I unloaded a semi-trailer load of 14inch and up lathes during a tropicial rain storm. I used the sling and bars.

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                        • #13
                          If you have a machine with an eye bolt in the top like a b-port mill has make sure that it is tight and attach a saftey to the machine I have seen those things unscrew themselves.
                          I just need one more tool,just one!

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