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Restoration Questions for an Atlas 9" Lathe

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  • kennyd4110
    replied
    Originally posted by Paul_NJ
    Thanks Ken, I'll look into that paint, I like the look of it. Did you use a primer? There's a TSC not too far from me in Washington, NJ. I too have a turbine HVLP setup (Wagner) and have had great success with it painting a couple of old Farmalls. Based upon your choice of paint, perhaps you have some experience with an old Ford 8 or 9N?

    Paul,
    I did not use primer, because I figured when the hot chips and oil start flying the primer would do little to save the paint job! So I tried to keep this project in perspective...this machine will get used, the paint will get chipped and scratched, ect. I just wanted it to look decent and be sure it was mechanically sound before I started learning on it.

    I have mainly used my AccuSpray turbine for spraying pre-catalyzed clear lacquer's for woodworking projects. I did paint a old seeder/aerator for the tractor with it once using the TSC JD Green with the enamel hardener added, and it turned out OK, but I think I needed a larger tip size for the enamel to get a better looking job.

    No Ford tractors here, I have a newer JD 4110, and would like have an old A or B model to fix up one day when I have extra time and money

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul_NJ
    replied
    Originally posted by CCWKen
    Wow, I went back looking for the post of my restoration. I didn't realize it's been so long ago. (March, 06). Here's the link. I hope the pictures still show up. I guess time does fly when you're having fun.

    http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=15726

    Thanks for the link Ken. Beautiful job! Your comments made me chuckle . . . I went through the same thought "logic" with a Farmall tractor . . . went to clean the hood, and ended up with little more than the skeleton intact. But it is the only way to do it right.

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul_NJ
    replied
    Originally posted by kennyd4110
    Paul,
    Thanks for the compliments. Yes, just K1 and a scotchbrite pad for the rust removal, and a whole lotta rubbing!

    I am using the "Tractor & Implement" enamel from TSC (Tractor Supply Company). Ford Gray is the color. And yes, I am using a brush and the little mini rollers from Home Depot. If it was spring, I probably would have sprayed it (at least the large peices) with my HVLP turbine setup outside. I have had good luck with this paint before, that's why I chose to use it for this.

    It's my pleasure to help any way I can...
    Thanks Ken, I'll look into that paint, I like the look of it. Did you use a primer? There's a TSC not too far from me in Washington, NJ. I too have a turbine HVLP setup (Wagner) and have had great success with it painting a couple of old Farmalls. Based upon your choice of paint, perhaps you have some experience with an old Ford 8 or 9N?

    Leave a comment:


  • CCWKen
    replied
    Wow, I went back looking for the post of my restoration. I didn't realize it's been so long ago. (March, 06). Here's the link. I hope the pictures still show up. I guess time does fly when you're having fun.

    http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=15726

    Leave a comment:


  • kennyd4110
    replied
    Paul,
    Thanks for the compliments. Yes, just K1 and a scotchbrite pad for the rust removal, and a whole lotta rubbing!

    I am using the "Tractor & Implement" enamel from TSC (Tractor Supply Company). Ford Gray is the color. And yes, I am using a brush and the little mini rollers from Home Depot. If it was spring, I probably would have sprayed it (at least the large peices) with my HVLP turbine setup outside. I have had good luck with this paint before, that's why I chose to use it for this.

    It's my pleasure to help any way I can...

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul_NJ
    replied
    Ken

    I appreciated your reply and photos. Wow, you were able to clean it up just with a maroon scotchbrite and kerosene? It really looks good. I particularly noticed the change you made on the tool block from the photos because there were good before vs after views. I'll certainly give it a try - I had only used some gray pads so far. Are you brushing the paint? . . . what type of paint are you using? It's coming out terrific! I'd enjoy seeing later photos as you progress. . . I'll check back to your album.

    Thanks again!

    Paul

    Leave a comment:


  • kennyd4110
    replied
    I am fixing up a Clausing 4900 lathe, when I got it, there was a lot of surface rust, luckily there was no pitting.
    I used maroon scotchbrite pads with kerosene to clean up the parts and it did a great job.

    You can view picture here, I need to add more as I have the bed painted, the QC gearbox reassembled, and I am in the process of putting the headstock back together now.
    http://picasaweb.google.com/kdeckster/Clausing4900

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul_NJ
    replied
    Thanks for the information and suggestions.

    Ken: wow, a picture is worth a thousand words! Beautiful job!! Did you have rust to deal with, or just old paint to strip? How did you PA treat, immersion, or surface scrubbing? Or did you use electrolysis on any of the parts?

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Arcane
    replied
    Watch out for double set screws also (one on top of the other). A couple of Atlas lathes I have cleaned up had double ones holding the pulleys to the spindle and if you try to force them off the spindle thinking that it was just a tight fit, you definitely will do a great deal of damage. I have no idea if this was a factory thing or if people just figured it was a good thing to do to positively lock the setscrew in, but the two lathes I saw had them.

    Leave a comment:


  • CCWKen
    replied
    3M maroon and/or grey pads work great for the bed ways. It's best not to sand on the ways or any of the parts that contact them. (headstock, carriage and tailstock bases) The electrolysis method works good. So does phosphoric acid. The PA works faster and leaves a phosphate treatment. I used paint stripper on mine before getting into details. Scrubbing, polishing and fine wire wheeling works wonders.

    I turned this 12" Atlas/Craftsman...



    into a respectable and usable piece of machinery.

    Leave a comment:


  • barts
    replied
    I've been cleaning parts from my 1920's era 16" South Bend using
    electrolysis. Works well and w/ TSP removes the old paint easily.
    Keep in mind that the goo left over can contain things not suitable
    for disposal; best bet is to let the water evaporate mostly and then
    collect and dispose as one would w/ old paint.

    - Bart

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul_NJ
    replied
    Thanks for all of the ideas guys. Reading them made me realize that perhaps I could also use the same method I'm already using for cleaning up old rusty tractor parts. I built an electrolysis tank out of a 55 gal polyethylene drum with the top cut off with rebar electrodes and a DC power supply. I think I could submerge the entire lathe bed when the tank is full. After drying the metal with compressed air I usually spray the finished piece with a product called Picklex20, which is a phosphoric based solution, to prevent flash rust before painting. Then shoot epoxy primer, or brush a rust preventative paint called Zero Rust. I never would have considered doing that with lathe components, but now I suppose why not? Has any one else gone this route?

    Thanks for the information regarding the chuck . . . I had no knowledge about any of that. Don't know what I'd do without this forum.

    Leave a comment:


  • barts
    replied
    Yes, the Atlas lathes used many "Zamak" components. Zamak is a zinc die casting alloy made from zinc, aluminum, magnesium and copper. These parts were liable to break if the machine was abused, but work well under normal loads. My 1942 Atlas 10" is still going strong; I've had no difficulty with the Zamak components, but obviously an Atlas 10" is a far lighter duty machine than a South Bend or similar.

    - Bart <edited for incorrect wrapping>

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  • David S Newman
    replied
    I live in the UK and about 35 years ago I bought (unseen) an Atlas lathe when it arrived I was so dissappointed, so many diecast components, all gearwheels were diecast plus many other things. It was the most utility machine i'd ever seen and soon parted with it, were they all like this or was it just the ones exported ? David
    Last edited by David S Newman; 12-27-2006, 04:25 PM.

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  • dicks42000
    replied
    Good advice so far...

    Tom & Paul, good advice. I just have to add re the chucks....the jaws for a 3 jaw self centring chuck have to go in a certain relationship since they are mating with a scroll, otherwise they won't self centre....
    They are numbered from the factory, but it's a good idea to witness-mark them.
    Also, yes to being cautious about removing chucks by locking the spindle with the back gears....(Atlas book recommends that). That would only be ok for a chuck you can remove by hand. I used an impact too, when I first got my little 618 last year. Now I do it with a chuck key, gently.
    The Zamak parts (gears, handles etc.) do OK for what they were designed to do. As said, be careful with disassembly etc. Depending on the lathe, some parts are available (see the Atlas yahoo group...) half nuts & the lead screw outer bearing are common & maybe still available from Clausing Svc. Centre.
    Back gears etc. would probably have to come from a parts machine. (Ebay etc.) Sometimes the gears/ dog clutch thing for the tumble reverse for the leadscrew gets mashed up....can be hard to get.
    If you are getting really anal about the restoration, some people on the yahoo Atlas groups (618 & general Atlas machines) have the paint codes & have scanned & reproduced the decals....
    I hope you have fun with it. For light work & as a second lathe they are fine.
    I like all the attachments you can find for them. I got a few with mine, eg. milling attachment, tool post grinder....
    Have fun;
    Rick

    Leave a comment:

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