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Making a custom carriage stop

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  • Making a custom carriage stop

    I’m getting ready to make a custom Carriage stop for my lathe (pictured below), and I’m debating what to make it out of. I have been bouncing between class 40 iron, 6061-T6, and 7075-T6. The ways are induction hardened, so I don’t have to worry about damaging them, unless I use something really hard. I will be using a milling attachment, so no matter what I chose; I will be taking small cuts.

    If it was up to use, what material would you use?

    -Dan S.
    dans-hobbies.com

  • #2
    I surely would not disparage your design, but I would beg a question if I may.

    Rather than what appears to be a setscrew type retainer for the indicator, why not a horizontal slit with a vertical screw for a clamp.

    It seems it less clamping force for a larger area (over the body) as opposed to a point pressure clamp from the setscrew.

    Just curious. It's a real pretty drawing, easily understood.

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    • #3
      Does it have to be metal would hardened nylon work?? if not even mild steel would not harm the ways.Try incorporating a micrometer into it perhaps for extra fine adjustment.Alistair
      Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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      • #4
        I made a "micrometer" stop a couple of moths ago from 1018 CRS. (only thing I had as I started it on a Sunday) Used a piece of 1/2 -20 all thread rod for the spindle, made the dial from 1018 also. Its only off .001 over 1 revolution (.050) of the dial. Not bad for CRS and threaded rod. I use an old set of gage blocks with it most of the time so the micrometer function is not that important. 1018 CRS steel will work fine.

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        • #5
          Dan:
          Nice drawing. One feature I like about the one on my south bend is the positioning set screw on top. It is mostly clamped on by a nut and stud on the botom . but the srew on the top allows it to be easily moved. As for material what is available in your stock bin.
          Tin
          Ad maiorem dei gloriam - Ad vitam paramus

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          • #6
            Mine was made very similar to the one picutured, but with pinch slot. It is 6061-t6 and works rather well, but has no micrometer built in.
            Russ
            Master Floor Sweeper

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            • #7
              Just made a similar gadget to clamp on a home/limit switch for my lathe CNC conversion:



              You could do a split clamp like Dirt Dobber suggests. Mine won't be moving much, so I just wanted it quick and easy. It was and works great. For this application, I am clamping to the rear, so it's rectangular back there. A split clamp would work better if you're on the prismatic ways.

              Best,

              BW
              ---------------------------------------------------

              http://www.cnccookbook.com/index.htm
              Try G-Wizard Machinist's Calculator for free:
              http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCGWizard.html

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              • #8
                Aluminum should be fine. I see no reason to use 7075 though.

                This one can use a stop rod, an indicator, or a depth micrometer as a stop:

                Location: North Central Texas

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                • #9
                  Joel's looks almost identical to mine in design, right down to the pin to alight the cantilever clamp. Only diff is mine is locked from the top and uses the split/clamp retention for indicator/rod.
                  Russ
                  Master Floor Sweeper

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                  • #10
                    DirtDobber,

                    I initially considered the slit method, but once I got everything laid out, it didn’t feel like I had enough meat. I’m hoping a soft brass tipped set screw, will have enough clamping pressure to hold the indicator in place with out damaging it. The sliding stop will be a 3/8” HSS reamer blank, so I can torque down on that with no problem.

                    Joel,

                    I don’t have any stock large enough (2.5” x 1.25” x 1.575” finished), so I need to pick some up, and if you surf EBay, you can get 7075 for almost the same price as 6061. When I did a quick cost comparison cast iron was the cheapest, then 7075, and then 6061, when I considered delivery costs.
                    -Dan S.
                    dans-hobbies.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I posted this one I did a while back on the "other board". It clamps using a retractable eccentric pin. A quick twist of the knob will lock it and if you pull the knob the whole thing can be lifted away.

                      Last edited by daryl bane; 01-03-2007, 11:22 PM.

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                      • #12
                        I've posted this somewhere before, maybe here...... just another variety for more idea jogging





                        1601

                        Keep eye on ball.
                        Hashim Khan

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                        • #13
                          Done the deed

                          Originally posted by daryl bane
                          I posted this one I did a while back on the "other board". It clamps using a retractable eccentric pin. A quick twist of the knob will lock it and if you pull the knob the whole thing can be lifted away.
                          Daryl,

                          That’s a real work of art, is that painted, or blackened steel?


                          I did the deed, and picked up a chunk of 7075 big enough to make 3 or 4 stops (EBay). Hopefully I won't mess up on the first one, so I can use the leftover stock for future projects.
                          -Dan S.
                          dans-hobbies.com

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                          • #14
                            Actually, hard black anodizing. Since it is a dial indicator holder and not really a hard stop, aluminum works just fine.

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                            • #15
                              For a micrometer stop, buy a cheap micrometer at HF for under $5. You can cut the curved part off and turn the barrel OD to fit your bracket.
                              I like J Tiers idea of making the DI and Mic interchangeable

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