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  • New carbide inserts/toolholders--mistake?

    UPS dropped off the box to me this morning. I carefully unwrapped the way overpriced sandvik toolholders and carbide inserts. Chucked a piece of 6061 aluminum and tried out the CCGX h10 (3-2.5-1-AL) grade inserts. Perfect cut & finish . I put in the CCMT (3-2.5-1-pf) 4015 insert and tried it on a piece of plated steel rod (6 inch length, 5/8" between centers) that I had lying around. Horible finish... tried various speeds (400-900), feeds / DOC etc. I can't believe it....i'm pis..ed off. I put a DCMT insert in the other toolholder w/ same grade of insert and got the same results. Now I just spent a lot of money on these based on Sandviks recomendations and got the worst finish I have ever had...I got better results w/ some unknown worn inserts that I had laying around. Where did I go wrong???, Did I buy the wrong grade, nose radius, etc. I never did try a DOC over .008" , or feed rates over .006". I thought that the finishing inserts required more speed and smaller DOC, I'm confused and broke.....any suggestions!

    PS....would any machine shake/vibration be a factor. I may try those machine levelers as well.

  • #2
    In my limited experience with most inserts...you need a heavy doc to get a good finish. I have a new toolholder also and got fooled on the first few pieces I made. I found that for my finish cuts I needed .010 instead of my usual .001 or .002 that I use with HSS.
    My machine isn't quite as rigid as I'd like either.
    Not sure what size diameter you meant for that part (5/8" center to center??) but you could be turning it too slow. Most of my inserts require 400 sfm with mild steel. If this piece is 5/8" dia you should be up around 2500 rpm....no?
    Russ
    I have tools I don't even know I own...

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    • #3
      Jack the rpm as high as your lathe will go. Increase the DOC. Keep increasing all the cutting parameters until you start getting chip breaking with blue chips.

      Try a piece of known material, like 1018. Preferably a little larger diameter to get more sfm.

      Shaking/vibration? Yeah, that should be corrected.

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      • #4
        My lathe may not be able to handle these carbide bits correctly. If I'm reading my lathe correctly my max RPM is 1200. Older Clausing #6320 13" swing. I may need a differet type of insert that cuts better at lower rpm. Any suggestion on insert grades, make etc that may work on a CCxx, or DCxx toolholder.

        High tech on an older machine hasn't worked for me yet on steel. It may be HSS time again.

        Krems

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        • #5
          Inserts

          Krems
          Look up a "Speed -Feed" chart for the insert being used. You will find it has a "window" of feeds and speeds for the particular tool. Your comment about a 0.008 inch feed may be low for a typical carbide insert. Operate in the "window" and things will change.

          JRW

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          • #6
            Ummmm..."plated steel rod"??

            Is this the cheap cadmium plated junk you can buy at the hardware store that machines like bubblegum?

            I would offer that as a HSM who has several carbide insert type cutters, often the best finish does come from HSS. The advantages of carbide are the ability to remove material more quickly with less wear. Insert design is based on a particular chipload and taking less than that can change an insert from being positive rake to negative rake. If you feed in far enough for a positive rake cutter to cause the chip to hit the chipbreaker, it may be a positive rake as designed. A shallower cut causes the chip to hit the top of the insert in front of the chipbreaker making for a more neutral-to-negative type rake and this may not make for a great finish. Negative rake cutting commonly produces greater forces on the lathe too, which may be a problem with a smaller lathe.

            Of course, having other vibration problems will always be an issue and the source should be examined and fixed.

            In short, carbide is not inherently better. For us HSM types, we may take shallower cuts on purpose in many cases which can wear out the edge on an isert before it has done its intended amount of work. Taking a larger cut may produce better results which may seem counter intuitive. The lathe must be solid enough to support this, however, and sometimes carbide makes less sense on a smaller lathe.

            I would use the carbide for applications that merit it and certainly don't give up on HSS. I'd also get some material that is known to machine to a better surface finish and take that variable out of the equation. Also, try a shorter piece, chucked up close for the purposes of your tests. Whipping is always a problem with a longer piece between centers.

            Paul
            Paul Carpenter
            Mapleton, IL

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            • #7
              My experience has been exactly the same as Paul Carpenter's. Carbide cutters need a deeper cut to make the chip breaker work, and they aren't inherently sharper than HSS, just tougher, designed for heavy feeds for longer tool life. I also change to HSS for a fine finish when I can't use the heavier cut as a last cut. And definately, machine shake should be eliminated.

              steve Stas

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              • #8
                Provided the Sandvik inserts are "standard", there should be HSS inserts that'll work in the holders.

                Someone here may have a link to one of the companies producting HSS inserts.

                HB Rouse company might be someone else to consult. They have high positive inserts similar to the aluminum cutting variety, but coated for steel.

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                • #9
                  One other thing I forgot to mention is that the general assumption is that the minimum DOC should typically be at least equivalent to the nose radius...ie for say a 221 it would 1/64" or about .015 for a 222 (or 322 etc...the last digit is the nose radius in 64th's of an inch) it would be around .030" etc.

                  While they may list one grade of carbide or another as being for finishing etc. the nose radius is no less as meaningful in terms of an insert's value for finishing vs. heavy cutting.

                  Paul
                  Paul Carpenter
                  Mapleton, IL

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                  • #10
                    The company that produces the HSS inserts is AR Warner http://www.arwarnerco.com/index.html

                    I saw their stuff at IMTS last year, looks good, but haven't taken the plunge yet and bought anything. They alos sell toolholders.

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                    • #11
                      Ok, what the heck does DOC mean???
                      It's only ink and paper

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                      • #12
                        Depth of cut

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                        • #13
                          Crap I can't remember what snadvik inserts I use at work, but I do know that I rarely ever run the lathes over 800rpm, they probably do most of their work at 500rpm, anyways I get fine finishes and I don't take no .010" or ".020 doc finish passes, that would suck if I was trying to hold plus or minus half a thou. You probably got some crap material or the inserts arent set at the correct height, or maybe you just bought the wrong ones.

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                          • #14
                            Called Sandvik today and talked to one of the tech reps. He almost laughed when he calculated out the sfm. (1000 rpm max w/ 1/2") steel... I think he came up w/ 125 SFM+/-.......Someone needs to tell me how to calculate the SFM. The carbide insert was basically made for 3 to 4 times or greater what he calculated.....He recommended a larger nose radius w/ a 1025 grade carbide insert at the speed my lathe can operate. I wish the other Sandvik rep would have thought about it before he talked me into buying these high speed 4015 inserts

                            I'm going to pick up some known steel tomorrow and try again. Yea I was using that junk plated crap that you buy at the hardware store. Thanks for the link to HSS inserts.

                            MOchinist: Sounds like you operate as i do. Chasing that last thousandths w/ small DOC and slower speeds. If you think about it I'd like to know what insert you were using.

                            Thanks for all the info!.....................Krems

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Warner T15 inserts...

                              I bought a set of Warner's toolholders & T15 (HSS +15% cobalt) inserts a couple of years ago - even though the T15 inserts are fairly expensive, I think they represent a good value if you shy away from the idea of grinding your own HSS tools. I got a great finish on some mystery stainless with TPMW 222 T15 inserts while building a benchrest style front rifle rest a year ago - it was much easier than trying to find the right combination of doc, speed, & feed with any of the 31.52 TCMT carbide inserts I had on hand. The stock I used had an OD so close to the desired finish OD that there wasn't much room for error while experimenting with speeds & feeds.

                              I've bought Sandvik TCMT 31.52 inserts in 1015 & 4025 grades off ebay, and it seems the 1015 grade gives a better finish on stainless than 4025, in the limited turning I've done so far with 4025. I don't use much mild carbon steel; aside from chambering & fitting barrels of 416R, most of the stock I've bought to play with is mystery SS from a surplus yard.
                              Regards,
                              Dennis

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