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I've got a bunch of oilers, new and old, Eagles, Goldenrods, etc. They ALL leak.
One thing that works is to replace any older cork or fiber gaskets with one cut from Buna-n rubber sheet. Then, goop up where the nozzle connects to the can with a sealing compound like Permatex. Lastly, if it has a pushbutton actuator (like the old Eagles) check any packing material, tighten or add to it.
When you're all done, buy one more can that promises to be the ultimate oiler
i'll second Tractor Supply. i picked up a nice small one there. it was more expensive than the plastic crap you find for $1 at the local wally-world, but it doesn't leak. i also picked up a few oilers at an auction for about $12. well, okay, i got about 30 of them. they are almost all old ones and while four or five of them leak a bit, it isn't like i don't have others to choose from. the auction deal is the way to go if you have a chance to attend a local one.
I have an oiler I bought 30 years ago when I got my first Southbend.
Got it from a Link Hardware store (I don't think the chain exists anymore).
It's made in Italy by Brevattato. I'd love to find a hockey sock full of them now.
I've waited and waited for it to blow out when lubing ball oilers but it hasn't so far.
Some of the ball oilers on my lathe are downright rude about taking oil but this old can just keeps on pumping.
Seems to me I paid about $2 for it new.
Russ
What I’m noticing is that the cheap oilers (< $10) have really crappy tolerances in the pumping mechanism. My lathe has 21 GITS oilers, that I give a shot of oil each time I use it. By the time I get done, way oil has seeped out from around the piston, and covered the can and my hand.
At first I though this might have been a cheap import issue, but I have used 3or 4 made in the USA ones and they had the same problem.
lol maybe I squeeze to hard on the trigger. Dad always gave me hell when I help him in the shop; said I always over tighten bolts etc.
I've had the best luck with a Goldenrod can (thumb actuated) oiler for way oil applied directly to ways or to lead screws etc., but I have the best luck applying oil to the much-hated ball oilers with a vet syringe and a largish needle. The belt sander took most of the point off rather cleanly but left just part of the original bevel to the tip. You can then just push the needle in and past the check ball in the oiler and put the oil on the right side of the ball. Using ball oilers this way makes them much less annoying. They are just a self-closing oil cup without the cup, so nothing sticks up to snag.
I did find that I occasionally have to run a fingernail over the ball once the needle is pulled out to get it to snap back into place. The needle pushes the ball/spring over to one side and occasionally causes them not to snap back in place. The syringes and needles are cheap at the farm supply places.
Groz oil can with brass pump, fixed and flexi nozzle for my Tellus and way oil works well here (NZ$12)
If the seam on your cheapy is leaking try soldering the joint.
I have a pistol style oiler I picked up at Tractor Supply Co. it's metal red colored with a 6" flexible tip... was priced under $10. Works great oil only comes out the end of the nozzle. They also have vet supplies like syringes.
I checked McMaster (thanks mmambro), and man the Reilangs are expensive ($40+); at that price I think I could make one cheaper. Has anyone used the Prolube brand? Enco and MSC both carry the line, so I could pick one up next time I place an order.
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