GRIZZLL 4"x6" BANDSAW

[iForge]

I wanted to get some feedback from anyone who has or has used the GRIZZLY 4x6 Horiz/Vert Metal Bandsaw. Am considering getting for the shop. COmments please.

[Dr. Rob]

Don't know about Grizzly specifically, but like a zillion other people I have one of those S.E.A units. Fantastic. Cheap, versatile, compact, efficient, does all you ask and more. Paid for itself in the first week.

Still have not found the job that can't be crammed in there one way or the other.

Accurate? Well, sure, if you take the time and effort to tune it properly. Fast? No, but you shouldn't be in a rush anyway. Worth the $? Absolutely.

Reasonably portable too. When I worked construction, we used the saw on-site often.

Oh, Wait- You know the stand that it comes with from the factory? Throw it in the garbage, first thing you do. Then use the saw to help build a sturdier one that doesn't shake, rattle & roll. Maybe even mount it properly at the end of a table.

Those were my eight cents worth.

[Ragarsed Raglan]

They even get as far as the UK, ours are badged anything from Nu-Tool, Alpine (Swiss conertations!), and worst of all SIP (a skeleton of the famous Societe Genoivise [SP?])

I would endorse all that Dr Rob has said, and add that the potential for further development of these saws would have you working a 40 hour week, for the next 5 years, before all was accomplished. The jaw mechanism can be improved in a multitude of ways (compensation screw, extended bed clamp screw, move swivelling jaw closer to the blade, out rigger fixed jaw on opposite side of blade,etc,.), the tensioning system can be improved by making it spring loaded, the down feed improved by an air cylinder system, in fact there are enough modifications to write a book on the subject!

I used to buy Starrett blades, but after a discussion on this board I was enlightened to the Lennox blades, which I now fully agree, are superb. Go for a 14/18 Raker for tube and angle and try a 8/10 for large section aluminium, or 10/14 as a general Aluminium/steel blade. Further to Dr Rob's advice on garbage canning the stand, you might want to do the same with the blade it will be supplied with; unless the wife wants to slice some carrots - about all they're any good for!!

RR

[Joel]

I am in complete agreement with Dr. Rob. I couldn't live without mine, and the next best saws are way more expensive. A little time spent on alignment, and a good blade, are required modifications. I modified 2 old toothbrushes to keep the wheels clean with excellent results.

[SGW]

I've got one, branded something-or-other. Had it 10+ years, works great.

As long as you view it as a semi-finished kit of parts and don't expect out-of-the-box perfection, you'll do fine. It will be usable as-is, but some time spent doing a general tuneup will most likely be worthwhile. Others have had some good ideas on that. I reworked the vise, fixed the on/off switch, and a couple other details. I really ought to build a better stand....

[Rotate]

Everything Dr.Rob said.

One of the best bang for the buck purchase in my shop.

Albert

[jr45acp]

OK, Guys! I'll bite. What is a S.E.A? I'm in the market for a saw and this is a new one on me!

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John B

[Paul Alciatore]

OK, first of all SEA = South East Asia. I ought to know, I spent 11 months there complements of Uncle Sam.

As for the Grizzly, I have had one for about three years now and am delighted with it. As said above, accuracy depends on the setup. Once you get the back of the vise set perpendicular to the blade, you are hesitant to move it.

I disagree about the stand (at least on the Grizzly). Mine is fine for everything I use it for. I guess you might have trouble if you regularly cut 5" solid steel rounds that are ten feet long but I don't think I could even lift one of those onto the saw. For most small shop work the stand is fine. I plan to use mine until it fails.

As others said above, they aren't the most of anything - fast, accurate, capacity, etc. But it is the single most used tool in my shop. And it has needed zero repairs other than new blades. I would strongly recommend one. And the price is right.

Oh, and there are many modifications for these little gems in the various magazines. I am presently writing an article with several more. Watch HSM and MW.

[Herb W]

There's even a yahoo group for the little saws. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/4x6bandsaw/
Lots of links there to sites with info on mods. (check the 'links' section of the group)
Here's a link to a 4x6 FAQ http://www.tinyisland.com/4x6bsFAQ.html

[This message has been edited by Herb W (edited 03-27-2003).]

[wierdscience]

Yep,me too,air downfeed a must!Coolant not bad either.

[docsteve66]

Some of the stands supplied with asaian equipment (USA too), wobble at lot. you may be suprised how much a little wleding rod will to shake the wobbles. Weld every piece that is rivited, bolted, crimped, or glued.

[Dr. Rob]

Well, there you go, iForge. It's not often the Board votes so strongly or unanimously.

Great little number, those saws. The Model T of HSM. And as pointed out, the number of mods are endless. Also endless is the number of mods that can be put off ad infinitum. Saws still work, rain or shine; mod or not.

Buy one today, why doncha.

[Paul Gauthier]

An air downfeed????????? Does that mean an air supply from ones compressor?? My saw is a Wells and has a hydraulic down feed. Having never seen or used an air unit which is better????? Can I convert my Wells to air????

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Paul G.

[Ragarsed Raglan]

Paul,

....Let me get this correct, you want to convert your Wells from oil to air????? May I suggest Saddam may know how to do this!!!

RR

[66polaraconvertible]

I agree, got mine for Christmas. It is alot better than a hacksaw!!!!!! but, the stand and blades are garbage and they need to be checked over to make sure everythings ok...Rod