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  • rollers

    ok first thing - i have not done any homework on this yet just thinking it trough.

    I have been asked to make a set of rollers for an "english roller" a colleage is making. He found the rollers for sale to very high dollars and wants to save a buck. It seems the biggest part of the high cost is that the commercial rollers are heat treated then ground. My friend will not use his tool in a production basis so will accept reasonbly hard steel. Rollers are 3in long x 3in at widest diameter. Each has a slightly different taper ranging from 3 to 2 7/8 to 3 to 2 1/4 in 1/8 inch increments.
    I will by 3 inch stock cut to 3+ inch lengths so be able to face the ends and bring to exactly 3in length.

    All that said - the questions are:
    What steel would you suggest?
    Short of building do you have suggestions as to how to go about achieving the taper. (I think i will do the math and make many cuts then polish)
    the math: any quick source of formula to determine rise in a 3 in segment of arc??

    now i will go research a bit and see if i come up with what you all suggest.



  • #2
    Check out the pattern holder I made to produce english wheel rollers.. Gocart bearings are the cheapest by the way..

    on the leblond lathe at the bottom of page..

    My suggestion if I was to do it over, would be not to part them apart until last thing. Some boiler tube is the right hardness and has a hole predrilled in center. I have the profiles here, but are on paper.. I can scan and send you if you like.
    I got a ox lid from my cutting rig welded to a handle and a sand bag, then I take it to the wheel.

    [This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 11-09-2005).]


    • #3
      Here are a couple of links to web sites on English wheels. One site says to make the anvils out of 1045 and other says 4140.


      • #4
        One more,


        • #5
          Ohh yeah, I bought a forged steel roller from for $114.oo for the top roller, it came polished-bearings and all.. My anvil roller page says use 4140 steel. This is a seller item if you set up to mass produce the whole units. about 200 in all materiels.
          I put a 2" reciever on my english wheel frame and change out the work items, I have a model 3 ratchet bender, a 12" sheet metal brake, a tubing notcher, a 4" wide hydraulic press(auto universal joints) and of course the english wheel. Soon I hope to build a power hammer and louver punch on the same frame. I made the english wheel frame out of some 2x4x.188 wall rect tube.
          It went from a shop space hog to the most useful item(s in the shop. I'd do it all again only better next time.
          I hope this helps your pocket.


          • #6
            I built a englishwheel after reading a how to book I got from lindsay,very good little book well worth the money.My advice is make all the wheels hard top and bottom.I used a spherical o.d. pillow block bearing insert for the bottom wheel and a steel caster wheel for the top,I found though that because the top roller wasn't hardened though after some use it developed a small flat where the two wheels met.As I have come to understand the way they work is they exert a large amount of pressure in a very small area something like 100,000psi but with only 800or so psi on the roller,they way it does this is by concentrating this pressure in an area about .001 wide.What happened to me was as the top wheel formed the ridge the ridge was actually a small groove that was taking the same shape as the radius on the bottom roller,this had the effect of increasing the contact area and reducing the pressure being applied which results in more and more effort to achieve the same work.I fixed the top roller by finding an old bearing race and grinding the id till it pressed over the wheel.I would also recomend looking on ebay because a buddy of mine got a complete set of rollers including bearings for about $150.00.
            I just need one more tool,just one!


            • #7
              Regarding your math (rise in 3" arc). MHB has circle segments, chord length, and distnce from chord to circle from chord midpoint. THe tables are for a unit one circle. USe ratio formula for your circle.