Bandsaw blade selection...

[Hupp31]

I recently acquired a vertical bandsaw that takes an odd length blade (111.5"). Would very much appreciate input in terms of securing blades for same. First question concerns the preferred blade material, width and TPI. Would like a general purpose configuration for various metals in a home shop environment. If that's too much to ask of a single blade, how about 2 configurations with each based on type of material, or thickness of stock or...? Considering only occasional use, would I be better served to just have the blade(s) made up by a service and buy only what I need? Would I be further ahead by buying the stock in bulk coils, call in a favor and have someone with a blade welder finish them? As an aside, any overly large pieces of material can be cut with a power hacksaw. Your thoughts are appreciated.

Many thanks in advance,
Phil

[Lew Hartswick]

What speed range does it have ? How thick of what materials do you anticipate? I know, "various" but you do need to be a little more specific.
:-)
...lew...

[Forrest Addy]

Also it would be nice to know if its a wood or matal cutting saw?

Generally the best deal ggoing is to have a local saw shop who stocks the band material to weld you up 5 or however many takes you to the first price break and have that manu made.

Saw pitch is related to the material thickness. You need to span the thickness with at least two teeth.

For metal cutting, I prefer the better bi-metal saw bands. I use Lenox "super" in vari pitch - that is the prich varies between 4 to 6 pitch or 6 to 12 pitch etc. for a few inches over the whole lenght of the band. This greately redusce harmonics. The better blades cost double the cheapest but they last 4 to 5 times as long.

If you cut aluminum dry get a stick of band wax. It will help keep the teeth clear of clogs.

Woodcutting the better deal is in the milled tooth "silicon steel" bands. Again they cost double but they laast longer and more than pay for themselves.

[agrip]

Hupp

If you are serious about using your band saw, you will find you need to saw an inside circle at one time or another.

You will also find you will have a blade break according to Murphy's law.

I suggest, if you do not have the budget for a blade welder, and good ones aint usually cheap, that you learn how to skive and silver braze them.

There is a learning curve, for both methods.
GUARANTEEEEED!
Silver Brazing will be the most universally useable.

Some folks claim that they quickly TIG weld a band saw blade. HOWEVER, I sincerely doubt that they are doing that with filigree blades, maybe with the coarser blades.

Conclusion:
Buy Roll stock, never less than "premium" hard back.
Buy rolls of Bi-metal if you can. Be prepared for sticker shock.
Bi-metal blades will last a great deal longer, IF you don't shell the teeth with careless use.
Skiving and silver brazing bi-metal blades is a practical joint.

Hth Ag

[scott96088]

blade welder

I have a new flier from HF, and they have a band welder in there for $129 bucks..
Anyone tried one or are will to?? I'm thinking it might be handy once in a while.

Scott

[Hupp31]

The saw is a 16" WalkerTurner Wood/Metal vertical bandsaw. The speed range is 193-5692 fpm. At 775 lbs, it has some meat to it. To all who have replied to date, my sincere thanks.

Phil

[Forrest Addy]

That WT is a real saw. I wish I owned it.

[motomoron]

I have the 14" version of that saw. It's a wonderful tool.

I ordered a variety of blades from McMaster-Carr who carry a wide selection, and of course that legendary MMC freakishly fast service. The first one in was a Starrett 10-14 variable pitch bi-metallic, 1/2" wide x .025" thick. Bearing in mind that I've got a small horizontal bandsaw for cutting heavier stock, I've left this blade in for everything I've cut since the saw moved in.

For your saw this would be:

Part Number: 4179A923 $31.70 Each

Blade Width x Blade Thickness
1/2" x .025"

Welded Length
9 Feet, 3 Inches (111 Inches)

Tooth Style¸Tooth Set
Variable Tooth, Variable Set

Teeth Per Inch
10-14

It handles a mix of softwoods, hardwoods, plastics, aluminum, and brass.

I also installed a set of Carter ball bearing guides which work very well.

Echoing what Forrest said, the 16" version of that saw is about the only thing I'd rather have than my 14'. Any idea when it was made?

[Bill Pace]

I've got an old Taiwan 16" wood cutting import that I converted for metal cutting with a DC motor, and it uses a 111" blade. I havent run across any one who shows this length as a "standard" cut, but there are many suppliers that offer blades "cut to length" at no charge. As Moto pointed out, Mcaster is one,--and probably the best-- that I,ve ordered from, although coming in as a close second is Sunbelt Ind, ----- http://www.sunbeltindustrial.com/bandsawblade.asp

[Hupp31]

To answer motormoron's question...

In terms of age, my guess is circa 1950. The model number is MCB1160 and can be seen on Catalog page 18 (PDF page 20) of http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/Walker...0-CatalogA.pdf . Unfortunately, mine is in rougher shape and missing the optional blade welder. Another version (3300 series) followed mine and the belt change with Hi-Lo gear selection was replaced with a Reeves-type "Free Floating Variable Speed Drive Pulley" in conjunction with Hi-Lo gear selection.

Again, thanks to all who responded.

Phil

[Optics Curmudgeon]

I have the older round wheel housing version of this saw, made before K&T bought Walker-Turner. The two speed drive was missing so it only ran at "wood" speed. I put a 20:1 worm gearbox on it. I've had it for 18 years. It uses 114 inch blades, I have bulk blade material and a homemade brazing jig and have had no problems with blades. Brazing works just fine, although the HF welder has me thinking....

Joe