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  • Lathe stand feet

    I'm making a new stand for my Dashin 1024 lathe. The leg would be HSS 2x2x0.25 Now for the feet i will use 1 inch nut turn down to fit in the leg and 1 inch bolt weld on 3 inchs diameter 0.375 inch thick plate.

    How this sound?

  • #2
    I did the same thing for my mill/drill. But I filled the legs with sand and screwed(used woodscrews) hockey pucks to the plates.
    Russ
    I have tools I don't even know I own...

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    • #3
      That should work except it might be hard to turn the bolts to adjust the legs. I did the same but used 2" sched-80 well pipe for the legs. I turned a step on the head of the bolts that fit into a hole in the floor plates. Instead of the plate welded to the bolt, the bolt turns on/in the plate. The depth of the step is just shy of the thickness of the plate. IIRC, I drilled 1/2" holes in the plates for the "top-hat" bolts.

      This is the only pic I have at the moment that shows the leg bottom. If you need a closer pic, I can take one tomorrow.

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      • #4
        Good idea Ken. I had to jack up the stand to turn the feet when I first needed to adjust them.
        I have tools I don't even know I own...

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        • #5
          Welding will distort the nuts and shrink them a trifle. Run a tap in post-weld to clean up the thread so the bolt runs freely.

          The raised lettering on hex jacking bolts heads will cause the lathe to scoot as you adjust them. Turn a 1 degree crown on them leaving a 1/4" dia spot. To lock the leg, use a jam nut.

          Grease the threads so rust won't immobilize them.

          I suggest using a UNF bolt and nut for leg adjusters. Sometimes coarse threads are a little quick.

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          • #6
            A UNF is a good idea. I like to have a nut to lock the jacking screw down once you adjust it. I put this on my Clausing to get more height. The 5/8 threaded rod takes the weight off the castors, 4 at the headstock and 2 at the tailstock. I can level the stand and there are also leveling screws between the stand and the bed.

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            • #7
              Sounds like a good idea. Here's how I did mine. Adjustments are really easy.



              pete

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              • #8
                Thank you all for the fast reply.

                Forrest i keep your UNF advice.

                CCWKen i like your "top-hat" bolts ideas.

                Pictures will follow soon

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                • #9
                  As usual you guys are a reference of excellent ideas. I have been putting off building a proper stand/table for my 10x42 Atlas because I couldn't quite come up with the time to sit down and engineer a decent one. didn't know what all the features I would want. Now I do! Everything I see here!
                  I like the adjustable feet, LOve the immobilized caster idea as well. HAs anyone used those rubberized adjustable puck feet thingies? I bought as set a while back and have not used them yet, after looking at them I came to the conclusion that solid mounting would be better for absorbing vibration.
                  CCWken, what year is that Craftsman/Atlas?
                  Robert in SantaCruz.
                  My other car is a motorcycle
                  grumpy old fart
                  www.wirewerkes.com

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by wirewrkr
                    CCWken, what year is that Craftsman/Atlas?
                    It's a late 1939-41 Deluxe. I bought if from and estate auction of the original owner. It was mounted to a concrete "picnic table" looking bench when I bought it. Under pounds of dirt and oil, I found a date inscribed in the bench. Sep 7, 41. This corresponds closely with the date the Lamp Shop owner started his business--January, 1940.

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                    • #11
                      Mike W:

                      Would you by chance, have any more info on that "stand"?

                      I have a 12" jointer, (about 1/2 ton) that I want "mobile, yet rock solid". I don't move this machine often, but often enough. Like a lathe, it is "top heavy", and I need plenty of "working room" to use the thing, or it gets ugly fast.

                      CCWKen:

                      Saw the pics on your lathe stand, earlier in a different thread. That is a real nice stand, just didn't get a chance to say so the first time.
                      Today I will gladly share my experience and advice, for there no sweeter words than "I told you so."

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                      • #12
                        TECHSHOP, I have the rectangular tubing on both sides of the headstock end of the lathe and one piece at the tailstock end. The original lathe stand was strong enough so I just bolted the tubing on. I once made a stand out of angle iron for a large verticle bandsaw with 6 castors on it.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Mike W
                          TECHSHOP, I have the rectangular tubing on both sides of the headstock end of the lathe and one piece at the tailstock end. The original lathe stand was strong enough so I just bolted the tubing on. I once made a stand out of angle iron for a large verticle bandsaw with 6 castors on it.
                          Got pictures? :<)

                          TMT

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by slowtwitch
                            Sounds like a good idea. Here's how I did mine. Adjustments are really easy.



                            pete
                            Nice job...what are the feet made from?

                            TMT

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