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Dovetailing For A Buck

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  • Dovetailing For A Buck

    Well was playing with the shaper some more getting to know it's quirks and decided to try my hand at cutting dovetails. After grinding a cutter from a HSS blank I went to work. Was a little odd to start but once it gets going it's quick work. But to fess up I did grenade a cutter early in to the process... but at a buck no big loss. Anyway material is cold finished steel bar finished dovetail came out .020 wide for a prefect fit... moved in when I was suppose to be moving out. So I'll just keep widening and make a couple thread stop for the lathe. Knew I did not trim that block down for a reason; )








    If fits ok but not perfect... so compound stops it will be.
    Wow... where did the time go. I could of swore I was only out there for an hour.

  • #2
    nice job, tinkerer,good picture too

    The position of the clapper is critical in
    this operation so the tool will swing clear.

    Even Rudy had the clapper set wrong in the
    one article somewhere.

    We had Gray Planers when I was an apprentice boy.

    You could stall out a 35 horsepower moter on those
    without much trouble in a situation like in the photos.

    When the tool starts to cut on both sides in a corner,
    the forces on it quickly multiply on it.

    A gooseneck tool will spring to relieve the pressure.
    We had them at that time.

    Have you cut a t slot yet?

    Kap

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    • #3
      I believe from the photos, that your toolholder is upside down. With the toolhead pointing forward, if it were to flex, it would flex down, causing the toolbit to did into the work. If the toolhead were pointing backwards (the nut forwards), if it were to flex, the tool would swing away from the work, and not dig in. As Kap said, think of how a gooseneck toolholder would flex to allow the tool to swing away. This might help envision what I mean.
      --Doozer
      Last edited by Doozer; 04-07-2007, 07:37 AM.
      DZER

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      • #4
        Thanks Kap... Yep the clapper swing took a little visualization to set up so the tool could clear all the way into the corner. My cutter broke because not ever seeing this done before I just went at it and I advance to much at the start before I had a good form started. I don't think a spring tool would of made any difference. As for T-slots not yet... any pointers.

        Doozer... I believe I have the tool set up the best way for this application. If you look you'll see what I mean. If I flip the holder around I would of had to lower the holder down so the bit could clear the end of the clapper. With it as I have it the cutter is as close to the clapper as can be. Not only that but the force is going into the shank... flipping it the force goes thru the bolt and that's the next weakest link to the cutter.

        Anyway it was not bad for the first try at a new process... will show you the cross slide stops when completed.
        Wow... where did the time go. I could of swore I was only out there for an hour.

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