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  • Ball Screws

    Hi All ,Trust you are all well and in full chip mode,
    My enquiry is to the effect that I have aquired a NSK ball nut and now want a length of ball screw so . . . can I buy any ball screw with the same pitch etc or does it requires NSK variety.
    The instructions with the ball nut say to heat the end of the screw wilst the remainder is in water, can this be machined without heating etc

    On another tack does anyone know if it is possible to add ball screws to the sieg X1 mill as I have read that there is not much clearance for the ball nut!!

    If it is not possible I will just have to get a bit bigger( the mill that is!!)

    Peter
    I have tools I don't know how to use!!

  • #2
    re:ball screws

    Peter,

    Although I'm sure someone here will give you a very good answer about the ball screw, be sure to also check out the CNCzone web site.

    www.cnczone.com

    They have many categories in the FORUMS, including conversion of Seig minimills to CNC. There's likely to be ball screw discussion also.

    Jim

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    • #3
      Go to the source on something like this. Contact NSK.

      Comment


      • #4
        Peter,
        Most manufactures have their own standards and even a 16 x 4 screw from one manufacturer won't fit another - accurately, which is what ballscrews are about.

        Good news is the screw is the cheapest item to buy, bad news is NSK are idiots to deal with. You can't deal direct and have to go thru an agent.
        He buys the screw from NSK and sets the price, not NSK, so the more he can sell it for the more he makes. Result is unless you get an agent you can deal with [ or frighten the $hit out of ] they are talking telephone numbers.

        If by some fluke you need NSK 12 x 5 in precision grade, I have loads of offcut's of screw but the longest will only be about 12" You are welcome to them as without the nuts they are virtually useless.

        They can be machined without heating with sharp carbide tooling and you may need to resharpen.
        I did try the heating trick once but found on cooling that the hardness has been drawn thru the shaft and it made it harder to turn.
        The centre is quite soft and it depends on how far you need to go down. If you have to go below the minor diameter then it gets easier.

        He's three I have done today as part of a X3 CNC conversion.



        These are 12 x 5 pitch and the ends have been taken down to 10mm, two are threaded 10 x 1 and one has been tapped for a stud [ easier than doing an external thread ]
        On the stud one you can see the depth of hardness where the flat is.

        An X1 can be fitted with ballscrews depending on the nut size, You may have to grind a flat on the nut to clear the table and a couple of people have reported having to mill a clean up pass on the underside of the table.

        .
        .

        Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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        • #5
          Thanks for the advice and offer but the nut I have is 20 x 5 so I guess I will have to go with NSK, the nuts was from RS so I will try them for the shaft.
          I will also have to get some sharp carbide tooling and give it a go.
          Peter
          I have tools I don't know how to use!!

          Comment


          • #6
            Oh yeah, Ripoff Spares
            Just bought 300mm NSK rail and carriage from RS Oz
            My wallet is still in shock
            Just got my head together
            now my body's falling apart

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