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Whcih drill sharpener to get

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  • Whcih drill sharpener to get

    Ok, I need to break down and get a drill sharpener.

    I have seen the Lisle and Darex and a few other brands.

    I hate spending the money but I do need one that can handle a range of drill sizes, and I definately would prefer to be able to easily split points.

    I can get a near new Darex M series as shown below with the additional larger drill bit adapter which I think make it work up to a 3/4" drill bit, and it splits points.

    New this model goes for around $900, but I may be able to get the below one for around $600.

    Is there anything else out there that will handle that size range and split points without being some mickeymouse setup??

  • #2
    The unit in the photo is almost identical to mine - Darex M5. It's one of the best investments I've made. There's nothing like a really sharp drill when lots of holes the same size are needed. The point splitter is excellent. Totally devoid of mickeymouse. I have found that a CBN wheel is desirable for point splitting. The corner of an alumina wheel rounds over too quickly. One feature of the M5 Darex that I've not seen on any other is the ability to grind a "flat point" on a drill to convert it into a counterbore. Very handy when only a few capscrews need to be sunk. If you can get a unit like the one pictured for $600, you're in luck.


    • #3
      Big Dave

      The Darex M5 is the best manual machine made. Get CBN wheels for steels and Diamond for Carbide. Do not us diamond on steel - it wears way too fast. Do not grind soft steel with the CBN - unless the Rockwell 'C' hardness is above 39C the CBN wears really fast - the harder the better! (Weird stuff)

      My local sharpening guy used their M5 all the time until they bought a $250K Swiss CNC grinder for drills & endmills.



      • #4
        Have a look at one called SRD. It is a totally differnet structure, and requires only a simple Vblock drill holder. I have one and find it the fastest and eaiset to use. I believe they are listed in the MSC book, they also usaully show at Eastec.
        ron ginger


        • #5
          Like Ron, I have an SRD. It's definitely a nice unit, but it doesn't have a really good way of splitting least mine doesn't. Of course, mine was new probably about the time Warren G. Harding was president, so maybe the newer models have a precision way of splitting points.

          If you've got an opportunity to get a "near new" M5 for $600 though, that sounds like a pretty good deal to me. Darex makes good stuff.
          Try to make a living, not a killing. -- Utah Phillips
          Don't believe everything you know. -- Bumper sticker
          Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
          There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
          Law of Logical Argument - Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
          Don't own anything you have to feed or paint. - Hood River Blackie


          • #6

            I have a M-5 that I purchased a few years age with out the split point attachment,which was a mistake, for around $900.00. To add the split point attachment latter, was in the neiborhood of $500.00 not cheep.

            I have been very happy with the machine and as some one said it is real nice to have a sharp drill. Drills can be sharpened by hand but not as accurate.

            I use a diamond wheel which could be a mistake but it works,that's what counts.
            Don\'t ask me to do a dam thing, I\'m retired.


            • #7
              I wouldn't trade our Black Diamond for a Darex.

              I like the Black Diamond very well, more expensive than the Darex. Darex is very funtional but they just seem cheapy after using the Black Diamond.

              The Darex does have more capacity and is a good machine.

              The SRD is a nifty little unit, simplistic but it works nice.

              Splitting the tip is easy by hand if you have a nice sharp cornered stone. I've split more webs free hand using the wheel of the Black Diamond machine than any other way, another reason I like the Black Diamond with it's double built in dresser that will dress face and edge of stone. The Black Diamond will split the tip, but it's quicker doing it free hand.

              [This message has been edited by halfnut (edited 11-20-2001).]


              • #8
                The DoAll labeled Darex shown above ended up being purchased by someone who outbid me on E-Bay. They paid $900 for the M-4 Darex model with aluminum oxide wheel when you can buy it new without wheels for $950 or so.

                I did though get a Darex M-5 model with the point spliiting capability AND 2 Cubic Boron Nitride wheels, one sharpeneing and one point splitting for $775.

                I will have to look at the Black Diamond one, as I haven't seen it yet.


                • #9
                  Enter the new guy. I was just woundering what you all meant by "Splitting the ends". Also i would like to how it benefits the bit and when you should do it?



                  • #10
                    Splitting the web.

                    Easier to show you, chances are you might own some drill bits with split webs. Most 118 deg point drill bits you buy are of this variety, take a look, most 135 degree point bits usually come regular like.

                    Splitting the web is a variation on thinning the beb but it works better. Web is ground with 0 degree back rake at an angle offset from main cutting edges, to the center. Does away with the chisel edge. Takes a Sharp cornered stone to do proper like.

                    Thinning the web of a bit is often done once a bit has been sharpened back a ways, the web of a drill bit gets thicker towards the shank, usually done with the corner of the wheel, sometines with a thin stone dressed to radius to match gullet of flute.

                    Was looking at a magazine or catalog the other day and noticed that one drill bit manufacturer was now making a line of drill bits with the web a constant thickness from end to shank.