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Hand fitting and filing

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  • Hand fitting and filing

    When hand fitting parts I've used primer paint to help show the high spots. There has to be a better material. Is it prussian blue? And if so is it available?

  • #2
    Yes, pussian blue, non drying. Enco sells it, pg386, part#505-1387, $4.88 a tube. Loctite sells it also. I got mine from an auto parts store. I use it mostly for setting up differential gears.
    Location: North Central Texas

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    • #3
      Jiffy Marker? My fave anyway.

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      • #4
        Thanks for the tip. Both sound handy to have around.
        Spence

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        • #5
          This isn't what you were asking about, but it made me recall an old timer told me to use magic marker on pieces to be ground on a surface grinder. He said it did not clog up the wheel as dykem does. If you lower the wheel so it takes off just some of the marker, you're into the steel about .0002". It works for me.
          hms

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          • #6
            One brand is Dykem "Hi-Spot Blue." One tube of the stuff will likely last you several lifetimes, as a little goes an extremely long way.

            These days I'm not sure it's actually Prussian blue, but it serves the same purpose.
            ----------
            Try to make a living, not a killing. -- Utah Phillips
            Don't believe everything you know. -- Bumper sticker
            Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
            There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
            Law of Logical Argument - Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
            Don't own anything you have to feed or paint. - Hood River Blackie

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            • #7
              I'm a cheapskate--I use my wife's outdated lipsticks.

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              • #8
                Hey that old timer could have been me. I been telling guys that for years. No one believes me though and I am glad to hear it from another source. The wheel loading isn't really noticeable with a 40 grit wheel but you make the jump to 60 or eighty and you'll notice it in a big hurry.
                Fred t

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                • #9
                  For close fitting, Use a Mark-A-Lot pen (like sharpies but more oil tolerant), Finest "lapping compound" (valve grinding compound), touch the parts and move while pressing. Then use contract or break cleaner to spray away the residue. The shiny parts were touching.

                  The penmark must not dissolve in what ever you spray on. The spray must remove the lapping compound. Works well.
                  Steve

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                  • #10
                    Magic Marker - Marks A Lot. Prussian blue is good, but spreads out too much. Markers are standard gear in my shop, and cost less for three doz than a bottle of dykem or prussian. Very thin coating they do leave and are more accurate than pressian.

                    I have done this with no marking compounds at all. Rub the part lightly on a surface plate to find flatness. The high spots will shine more than the low spots. Takes a bit of practice to master, but this is the best method. Lap, rinse with say kerosene and then laquer thinner, then do again. This is how I learned it in apprentice school, my teacher said wussies used dykem or such.....except in layout, or for bluing handles on machines.....
                    CCBW, MAH

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                    • #11
                      Marker, except for scraping.

                      The tube of blue always leaks, and is the nastiest thing to have around when it does. Everything is blue it or you touch.

                      I need to try the Canode blue, I hear it is nicer to use, but I dunno where to get some.

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                      • #12
                        I've been using some oil paints from an art supply store. They have a great selection of colors. prussian blue included. I find it works best when spread very thin.

                        Tim

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                        • #13
                          One of the reasons I have used the primer paint in the past was it's quick drying property. Is the prussian blue for metal-work the same as the prussian blue in a paint store? I wouldn't want to have to wait for an oil based paint to dry. The magic marker method is looking better all the time.
                          Spence

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                          • #14
                            Prussian blue is much more precise than magic marker. It can be wiped to a thickness of about 2 millionths of an inch and still be visible. We use markers but it is rough paint compared to Prussian blue. Marker is much better than Dykem layout dye which is heavily pigmented and designed to build up a layer to allow clearly visible lines. Marker has pigment in it also but much more course than Prussian blue. The greasy consistency of the Prussian blue allows it to be wiped to very thin layers. It is key to high accuracy scrapping. Very messy. The stuff in art stores used to be the real thing. I am not sure about that now. The High Spot product works ok.

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                            • #15
                              Prussian blue is much more precise than magic marker. It can be wiped to a thickness of about 2 millionths of an inch and still be visible. We use markers but it is rough paint compared to Prussian blue. Marker is much better than Dykem layout dye which is heavily pigmented and designed to build up a layer to allow clearly visible lines. Marker has pigment in it also but much more course than Prussian blue. The greasy consistency of the Prussian blue allows it to be wiped to very thin layers. It is key to high accuracy scrapping. Very messy. The stuff in art stores used to be the real thing. I am not sure about that now. The High Spot product works ok.

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