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  • pvc pipe

    just wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to "face" an 11" long piece of 3" diameter thin walled pvc pipe. the walls are about 1/16"thick, and i need to make it smooth enough to glue a piece of lexan.

    i have a 10 X 18 lathe, live centers and other small stuff. the only way i can think of is to make some kind of adapter for the live center to support the free end, or use a steady rest (but i dont have one). any other ideas?? thanks

  • #2
    Make a cat's head. Wood would probably work well enough for the intended operation.
    Regards, Marv

    Home Shop Freeware - Tools for People Who Build Things
    http://www.myvirtualnetwork.com/mklotz

    Location: LA, CA, USA

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    • #3
      Dragons_fire,
      Turn two wooden disks with center drilled holes, one for each end with a snug fit.
      Make three or four internal spreaders.
      Push in a disk on one end,cut the spreaders the the proper length,
      attach with screws through the exposed end, pop in the other disk
      and repeat.

      Mount between centers, use a parting tool through the O.D. right into the wood so you won't get any tearout.
      Done.

      Mike Green
      Mike Green

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      • #4
        Use a large pipe cutter.

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        • #5
          If it is cut fairly straight why not just use a sander?

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          • #6
            ok, im home now, and i have made wood disks for something else that i dont need anymore, so im using them on each end.

            my problem is that i couldnt really cut the ends that straight, and my disk/belt sander is tiny, so i dont think it would work very well. i could have cut it a little straighter, and hand sanded it, but i was also curious as to how i could do it on the lathe...

            its for a robot that im working on, i will post a couple pics with another question of how to cut the pipe in a bit...

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            • #7




              those are the pics of what the robot is going to look like.

              i ended up making a wood plug to go in the chuck end inside the pipe so i didnt squish it, and then i made another for the other end that i could stick my live center into. it works fiarly well.

              my new problem is that i need to cut an access flap in the back of the pipe. not the full length and only about 1/4 around the pipe. i have some small brass hinges i will then use to hold the flap on.

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              • #8
                my new problem is that i need to cut an access flap in the back of the pipe. not the full length and only about 1/4 around the pipe. i have some small brass hinges i will then use to hold the flap on.
                How about a Dremel Tool?
                "The men the American people admire most extravagantly are the greatest liars; the men they detest most violently are those who try to tell them the truth." H. L. Mencken

                "All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed, second it is violently opposed, and third, it is accepted as self-evident."

                "When fear rules, reason and logic are ruled out."

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                • #9
                  That's pretty thin plastic pipe, so it would probably work to scribe the cutout with the pipe still mounted in the lathe. Put a suitable tool on the toolpost, then drag it across the pipe where the horizontal sides of the opening are to be. scribe each mark more than once until the cut is almost through. Scribe the sides of the intended opening by turning the chuck by hand. Before you're all the way through, scribe out the room for the hinges to mount, and make pilot holes for the hinge mounting screws. Cut through the side where the hinges are to be, then mount the hinges. Then cut through the rest of the scribed lines to free the 'door'.
                  I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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                  • #10
                    Have a milling machine? Set it up vertically and face the end off. I've done 6 & 8" PVC this way.
                    "There is no more formidable adversary than one who perceives he has nothing to lose." - Gen. George S. Patton

                    http://www.flowbenchtech.com

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                    • #11
                      I've done what brucepts suggests. My round column mill allows that easily- just fixture to the side of the table where the excess length of the pipe can hang down out of the way.
                      I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Dragons_fire
                        just wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to "face" an 11" long piece of 3" diameter thin walled pvc pipe. the walls are about 1/16"thick, and i need to make it smooth enough to glue a piece of lexan.

                        i have a 10 X 18 lathe, live centers and other small stuff. the only way i can think of is to make some kind of adapter for the live center to support the free end, or use a steady rest (but i dont have one). any other ideas?? thanks
                        Some 10x18 lathes have full length T slots in the cross slide. If this is a 'one off', clamp a big block of tight grained wood to the cross slide, center it in line with the spindle. drill and bore to the OD of your tubing. With a hand saw slit the top off, then re install with square drive wood screws whilst clamping a sample length of tubing in it. It now should look like a saddle clamp. Face with a boring head or an appropriate tool clamped in a 4 jaw.

                        i do this every day on PVC (1" and 1-1/2") to face and bore the ID to be used as a spigot for shop made flanged end caps 'cept mine is Aluminum with 4 toggle clamps for speed, assisted with spring release. Lloyd

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