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  • how to bore

    A hole in a wood saw blade I bought a ten inch saw blade from ebay didn't pay enough attention to the hole size which is 16mm I need 30 .The saw won't fit in my chuck too wide so I am stuck there also I have a stepped hole drill cone shaped which steps up in increments that might do or send to a specialist,or chuck away Alistair
    Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

  • #2
    Very simple really.

    You got a MILL aint you?

    Just centre it and use your adjustable bore on it.

    regards radish

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    • #3
      HOW TO BORE ?

      Keep it up Sunshine you are doing a good job

      No seriously Alistair don't use the step drill as they tend to wander even though they are stepped plus a saw blade is usually decent steel, not hard but tough and springy and will shag your step drill up in no time.

      Best way is to bore on your faceplate or mill even.
      Low speed, plenty of dollup and sharp tools.

      .
      .

      Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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      • #4
        And a carbide tipped tool might be a judicious approach.
        .
        "People will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time they will pick themselves up and carry on" : Winston Churchill

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        • #5
          Alistair,

          Your lathe can swing 10" but you can't chuck it? How about double sided sticky taping it to a faceplate and then (carefully) boring it out?

          Ian
          All of the gear, no idea...

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          • #6
            he'll need a 20 inch swing lathe to chuck that ..
            all the best.mark

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            • #7
              I had exactly the same problem. I used an adjustable boring tool in the mill. My boring tool takes a 3/8 shank boring bar, so I first replaced that with a 3/8 diameter stub. I adjusted so the stub traced out a hole slightly smaller than that in the blade. I went through a process where I alternately adjusted outwards and allowed the stub to rub the hole in the blade until the blade centered itself under the boring tool. I turned the spindle by hand during this operation.

              Once the blade was centered, I clamped it down and replaced the stub with a cutter. The rest is adjusting, cutting, measuring, then deburring.

              As with a lot of my projects, in hindsight I would have first turned a stub of the correct size to use as a gauge. Measuring with a dial indicator, then expecting the result to be exactly right doesn't always work out. Having a stub on hand makes the job easier, and can solve the problem of not having enough room around and under the cutter to properly use a suitable measuring tool.

              When I do think to make the gauge first, I like to compare the size to the shaft or arbor that the part must fit on, then make the gauge that size, then turn down a short section that would be maybe exactly 1 thou smaller. Then when using the gauge you will know when it pops in the hole that you are so nearly there.

              It would be good to know how much larger the hole is presently than the arbor it's meant to fit on. There will be some play, and you'll want to keep it that way with the new hole size. The first blade I enlarged the center hole in wouldn't easily fit the arbor, and I had to sand the hole out until it went on smoothly.

              By the way, my application was to mount a 10 inch blade of good quality onto a 14 inch chop saw. I had to build up the fence area so I could cut right through material.
              I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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              • #8
                Yeah - but

                Deleted/edited-out
                Last edited by oldtiffie; 08-19-2007, 09:10 PM.

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                • #9
                  It appears that some are just a bit "thicker" than the saw blade.

                  Surely there must be a bit of round scrap /off cuts/ end of length after parting off, that you can use UNDERNEATH the saw blade as riser or packer. This only needs a hole in it a bit bigger than what the hole than what is about to be bored out, then you can use your regular clamps, with due respect to the blade, use shims under the clamps, to hold it ALL DOWN to the table.
                  Or if your really handy and have time to kill, make TWO wide rings, one on the table, saw blade sandwiched between the two rings and all clamped down tight, no more ringing whilst cutting, if it's going to upset your tender eardrums.
                  It's now high enough off the table so the boring bar does no damage at all.

                  HHHhhhhmmmmm, seems simple ideas allude some, who are just a bit thicker than others.

                  regards radish

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                  • #10
                    Hi,
                    I used to work for a company that custom bored blades and also installed pin holes on larger blades (30+"). I would probably do one or two blades a day. We used to use a boring head with a carbide tipped boring bar to change the bore size. My boss was a little frugal, so as the insert lost its edge we would sharpen it on a diamond wheel. We would get 5-6 sharpenings on an insert!

                    The blade was clamped with strap clamps as close to the bore as possible. The opening was indicated to centre the boring bar, and we would start to bore the hole. We bored approx 0.0015" over the indicated size, which I was told was industry practice. The most difficult blades to bore were cheap 10" blades and some of the dado sets with multiple chippers (hard steel). All this was performed on an old Gorton mill with only 0.250" of backlash on the table!

                    Hope this helps.

                    Dave

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                    • #11
                      As thick as there is

                      Deleted/edited-out
                      Last edited by oldtiffie; 08-19-2007, 08:27 PM.

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                      • #12
                        I have a saw that requires a 5 1/2" blade with a 1/2" hole, a combination that isn't too common. But since cordless tools, there are 5 3/8" diameter blades with a 10mm hole. I use two plates of MDF with the blade "trapped" between (relieved for the carbide teeth/set). The whole "sandwich" is clamped to the mill table. Boring head with a boring bar finish the "enlargement". So far none of the blades have "spun" in the fixture, but I would add a steel pin in a gullet, if that happened.
                        Today I will gladly share my experience and advice, for there no sweeter words than "I told you so."

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                        • #13
                          A very good idea

                          Deleted/edited-out
                          Last edited by oldtiffie; 08-19-2007, 08:26 PM.

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                          • #14
                            he'll need a 20 inch swing lathe to chuck that ..
                            all the best.mark
                            now.... why the hell did i say that ...my mind was thinking power hacksaw blade thats why lol




                            just mount it in your lathe in the four jaw ...clock it ......and use carbide tipped tool to bore it .


                            you should just about manage it...as i think the swing of the 1024 is 11 1/4 inches .

                            all the best.mark

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                            • #15
                              MarK I think mounting this in a chuck would not be so easy as you think.When you consider the design of the blade outermost area with tungsten teeth surely this would create difficulty when doing this.Also setting in a faceplate would this be easier as you only have about 3/4" on each side to tighten the whole thing before you hit bottom of the ways.I will lok at bothe ideas before cutting to see if they are practical " thanks so far" perhaps the milling machine would be best????Alistair
                              Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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