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Ideas for removing a generator rotor?

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  • #16
    Assuming you have repeatedly tapped around the perimeter with a hammer, then held the rotor whist someone else smacks the center bolt sharply, make a quickie puller.

    Use a piece of flat big enough to bridge 2 slots. Take some longish bolts (5/16" is all that will fit?) and grind a slot that will fit the rotor near the end - a little rake wouldn't hurt OR just grind away half the head of a 1/4-20 bolt. Drill the bar for the bolts (sloppy is fine) and drill and tap for the center bolt. Hold the puller 'arms' firmly in place with electrical tape. Put tension on the center bolt and whack it with a hammer while holding onto (or suspending by) the puller.
    Location: North Central Texas

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    • #17
      Before you break it loose, its a good idea to slip some zipties in between the stator and rotor so it doesn't drop down and damage the windings as you pull it out. "ask me howI know this" . Good luck.

      John

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      • #18
        I bought a similar genset with the same problem.Rod broken,they couldn't figure how to seperate things.Screw that center bolt back in and leave any washers off,so that the head is not touching the armature.Use about a 3 pound hammer and whack the bolt head a good one.Mine came apart the first smack. Cleaned the hole in the block where the rod broke out,covered the hole with masking tape and filled the hole with J B Weld. New rod and gasket and I'm in business.

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        • #19
          That's what I've been doing. I've been hitting it pretty good licks but didn't want to hit it THAT hard in case I messed up the bearings, or cracked the case.

          Good to know yours came apart well that way. Shows I'm on the right track.

          This one had only one problem I can find aside from a bum magneto coil (3 leg) and a cab that needs a rebuild badly. I found new/used coils for it, but have not got the rebuild kit yet. I generally wait on expensive items until I am pretty sure nothing else will end up being a "stopper".

          The one problem is that the threaded part of the crankshaft that takes the flywheel nut is broken off. A stud was put in to take a nut, but they threaded it LH so that when you try to torque it down, the stud comes out of the crankshaft.

          I wanted to get the crankshaft out so I could see what I can do about that.

          Either fix it another way, or replace it, assuming I can ever find a replacement shaft with a taper PTO end like that. Or enough extra crankshaft length to whittle it down to that.
          1601

          Keep eye on ball.
          Hashim Khan

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          • #20
            Removing rotor

            Hello JT
            Years ago we used freon inside the shaft to remove steering wheels quickly.
            When we squirted some in the spring would usually push the steering wheel off. I like Ian's suggestion of tacking a nut on the outside of the rotor and pushing it off with a bolt in the nut. You could take the nut off with a grinder by cutting the welds. Using that method you could cool the shaft inside with dry ice and then put the bolt in and impact it to push the rotor off. I know today freon is not used for that but the cooling principle could be used before attempting to push it off with the nut and bolt.
            Chuck

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            • #21
              Reverse "shrink fit"?

              Deleted/edited-out
              Last edited by oldtiffie; 08-19-2007, 07:26 PM.

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              • #22
                I see an out...

                Here is what Id try, It sounds like you got a real stubborn one and you need two systems at once --- I can see your brass hammer marks on the bolt end and that is a gallant effort but you need to apply massive amounts of pressure while doing it.

                I see an angle on the outer parimeter of the rotor slots, find a bolt head that slides in at an angle and then straightens out and locks its lip of the head on the inner side, this will give lots of pulling power as the bolt cant move outward, you might even have to grind an angle on the outer head of the bolt and thats fine, now make up 7 of them and a thick flat plate with 7 holes to keep a straight pull radius, have the bolts threads long enough to lock a nut on one side and a nut on the pulling side, Youv got enough metal involved to pour the coals to it with 7 fast made pulling jaws, Your flat plate has a massive center bolt with massive nut welded to it (preferably on the inside if youv got the room) last but not least, a makeshift "arm" welded to it to counter-act the torqe from the bolt, ----- many of mechanics leave this detail out but if your tightening against the 7 bolt heads themselves you will loose a good portion of your torqe aplication and stress the holding power of the bolts, after you get an ungodly amount of torqe aplied stand back and give the head of the puller bolt a quick "wap" or use an air hammer which is what i prefer, better to have many of sharp little vibes rather than one big one for loosening, (much safer for everything also).


                Edit; I just went back and looked at that outer rotor angle and you might be hard pressed to get a bolt head in that way, If thats the case the thing I would do is mill two flats off the peak sides of the bolt heads 180 degree's opposed, then insert heads and rotate 90 degree's, the bolt heads should leave next to no play against the outer and inner rotor and should be deep inside the outer as I wouldnt want to count on the thinner outer rotor edge to keep the heads in contact with the inner even though youv grid locked the bolts to the plate there will be concern there... Like everybody else including yourself has mentioned --- heat is the "tripple wammie" that can be applied, but like you so wisely stated, id also stay away from it in this aplication. Good luck with whatever you try.
                Last edited by A.K. Boomer; 08-12-2007, 09:38 AM.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by A.K. Boomer
                  Edit; I just went back and looked at that outer rotor angle and you might be hard pressed to get a bolt head in that way,
                  Yes, max clearance thru there is 5/16 inch, and that is at an angle.
                  That is the last resort, as it requires a lot of work and has been evaluated as likely to simply result in mashed puller parts.

                  The size of actual part that can really be slid in and hooked on is pretty tiny.

                  So far it's oil and whacking the end. persistence often pays off. if it does not, I may have to try the puller.

                  Yeah, welding and so forth sounds like a really BAD idea on a permanent magnet rotor............
                  1601

                  Keep eye on ball.
                  Hashim Khan

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                  • #24
                    Could you use a set of expanding hooks that could easily be slip into the hole and then cranked into place... if you know what I mean. Say two pieces of flat bar with J's cut into them a pivot and a screw to push the lower jaws apart applying pressure to opposite lip under each spoke on the hole. Make up 3-7 use a plate with center bolt as a puller. Or figure out away to add a catch lip to use your gear puller. Yah I know sounds like abit of work but just another idea.
                    Wow... where did the time go. I could of swore I was only out there for an hour.

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                    • #25
                      Could some U bolts be slipped into those openings? Might be a bit easier than grinding a bunch of straight bolts. Just a thought.

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                      • #26
                        Is it possible to build a spider of pullers such as this (ignoring the off-plumb hand drawing errors):

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                        • #27
                          Tack welds on Hub

                          Hello Again JT,
                          I don't believe Small tack welds on the hub would cause any heat damage to the rotor. Molecular alignment should only be affected in the immediate weld area not through the entire piece. So two areas on either side of the nut about 1/2" long should work. Current would have to travel through the whole rotor to change molecular alignment. The closer to the center of the hub the better the puller will work. What do you think?
                          Chuck
                          Last edited by Yankee1; 08-12-2007, 02:16 PM.

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                          • #28
                            Well, persistence pays off, as always.

                            After several days of tapping when I went by, today as I was on my way to feed animals, I gave it a few more whacks, and the hammer note changed. Sure enough it was loose.

                            Looks like an old standard "truism" is wrong...... I did "keep doing the same thing in the same way" and yes, I WAS "expecting different results". And I GOT different results..... !

                            So, I guess it works to be crazy, or else the person who wrote that IS crazy.
                            1601

                            Keep eye on ball.
                            Hashim Khan

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