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OT: My truck's temperature gauge doesn't work.

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  • jr45acp
    replied
    I rarely post, so as not to expose my abject dumbassness, but I must say that the post from radish was so out of line that even my normal "roll with the flow" mechanism pegged out.

    I'm glad we have a place where we can throw out questions, and completely resent people of that persuasion.

    radish, you owe an apology to all the members of this forum!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Last edited by jr45acp; 08-26-2007, 05:00 PM.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Bump......................
    Last edited by pgmrdan; 08-26-2007, 08:29 PM.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    I dropped off the truck last night at the dealership and they just called.

    The gauge needs to be replaced. The good news is that it's covered under the extended warranty I bought when I purchased the truck so I'm not out a dime.

    Life is good!

    Oh yeah, so much for radish scrotum's theories about me being a cheap skate and about us not being able to diagnose the problem -

    "Come on now, get real, how in the heck can anybody diagnose this problem without being on the spot!"

    "If you want this advice, go to an Auto Electrician and spend some money you bloody cheap skate and stop filling this site with absolute BULL$#!T!!"

    "You still don't get do you, senior member all right, senile redneck, more like it."

    He's such a smeg head and a moron! Now who looks like a "senile redneck"?
    Last edited by pgmrdan; 08-25-2007, 06:41 PM.

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  • speedy
    replied
    The best 10c you will spend

    Wiring in a piezo alarm/buzzer is good insurance. You will hear it well before you see or smell the problem

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  • Mike W
    replied
    Carld, my heater valve is only closed in the off position as far as I know. Then the temp gauge doesn't move until I go anyplace from the off position. Before I installed these I had a problem with the radiator being partially clogged. I ended up having to get a new radiator.

    Before putting it in I flushed the engine several times. At the T that I put in, I used a stainless filter like are used in washing machines placed at the end going to the heater core.

    My theory was that if there was crud floating around, it would get to the filter and block the water flow. That would show on the temp gauge. I have checked it twice in the last 50,000 miles. I only found a few tiny particles that I cleaned off the filter.

    The thing I like about these digital gauges in that you can set a value when the temperature goes high, the gauge will start to flash. The oil pressure will flash if the pressure drops to a low psi. The voltmeter will flash if the voltage drops low. It gets your attention.

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  • Rookie machinist
    replied
    I call monday and get a copy of the wiring dia. and diag. info from toyota.

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  • Carld
    replied
    Mike, your Ranger looks like mine, a 2003. I bought a Ford Ranger factory shop manual and read about everything I was currious about. The heater A/C was one because in two of the positions of the heater A/C vent control the A/C did not work and it did in the others.

    On mine the heater temp control turns off the water flow through the heater core in some of the positions and not in the others.

    There may be times when your temp gauge may not show the correct temp because of an interupted water flow over the sensor. It may only be a slight difference but a difference none the less. You may want to reposition the sensor.

    You may have based the location of the sensor on the thought that most heat/cooling systems don't turn the water flow off.

    It's a little confusing to remember what does what in each switch spot but other than that I love the little bugger.

    I just got it July 24 of this year so all is new to me and actually the Rangers are not so little anymore. Mines a Ranger Edge 4 dr super cab 2 whl dr. 3.0L

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  • Oldguy
    replied
    Maybe you should ask your question here:

    http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/f79

    I would think a forum on Toyota trucks would probably find someone who has worked through the same problem.

    Glenn

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  • Mike W
    replied
    I have had my Ranger gauge panel out for a different reason. It wasn't hard but took me a lot of time. That is another reason I like separate real gauges because a problem is easy to fix. All the pieces are out there where you can get your hands on them. I was thinking about adding a fuel gauge which uses the existing sender and another temp gauge to measure the transmission.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    I'm assuming that the gauge gets ~ +12 volts on one side and the other side of the gauge runs to the sending unit which just provides a variable resistance to ground. The resistance is higher when cold and lower when warm/hot.

    Since I'm getting +9.79 volts coming off the gauge wire at the sending unit when checked against ground I'm assuming there's a drop of a couple of volts due to internal resistance of the gauge.

    To my way of thinking the wiring is probably fine. And since the resistance at the sending unit varies with the temperature the sending unit is probably fine too.

    I don't want to get to the back of the gauge yet because, based upon what I see in the Haynes manual, it looks to me to be a nightmare to take out the gauge panel.

    I was hoping I'd get lucky and it would just be the sending unit but if it's the gauge I'm going to let the pro's work on it. I've gotten behind dashboards from underneath but I don't have the stones to tear out part of the dashboard on my 4 year old truck that I plan to keep for another 15 years. It has 39,000 miles on it and I'd like to see 200,000+ before I even begin to think about replacing it.

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  • GRH
    replied
    Dan
    Can you check the voltage at the back of the gauge and also at the sender to see if something weird is going on in the wiring.
    Do you know if the voltage to the gauge comes straight from the sender and not into another device as well.
    Just a thought.

    Graeme

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by Rookie machinist
    Hey dan can we get a year make and model of your truck? Most newer cars use separate sensors for the ecm and the gauges. I might be able to get you the wiring dia for the sender if you need it.
    It's a 2003 Toyota Tacoma with the 4 cylinder 2.7 liter.

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  • Your Old Dog
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan
    I find it hard to understand why so many people seem to check thier manners at the "door" when taking part in online discussions.
    I think it's a bit like CB radio. Some people feel like Conan the Barbarian when standing behind a microphone or keyboard.

    As for this board. I think it's a large body of like-minded men whose interest are not strictly machines. Some people only have an interest in machines. It takes all kinds I suppose. In this case we got one person complaining and 15 guys interested in what is being said.

    I've been watching this thread because I doubt my temp guage in my truck and am in the process of learning things I did not know.
    Last edited by Your Old Dog; 08-19-2007, 07:19 AM.

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  • Evan
    replied
    What Mr. Radish is lacking is simple manners. I don't expect he behaves like that in public when face to face with someone. If he does he is probably quite ugly from having his nose broken repeatedly.

    I find it hard to understand why so many people seem to check thier manners at the "door" when taking part in online discussions.

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  • Mike W
    replied
    When I installed my digital gauges I didn't want to touch the factory temp sender which is screwed into plastic. So I put the new sender in a T that goes to the heater. The reading appears to be correct. The T looks like this. Now I have both gauges. The oil pressure was the dumb gauge that reads 1/2 full scale unless the oil pressure drops to 5psi or less. Now I know what the pressure really is.

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