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Dip or not to Dip part II

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  • Dip or not to Dip part II

    We ran this thread before. I am trying to get a new way to finish these tools without spraying. I got some enamel 1 gal. and mixed with paint thinnner roughly 3/4 of the gal.(needed it to cover part) and cut with roughly 6 oz of thinner. It is now roughly 50% thinner than uncut.
    I dipped the part dripped dry. I have posted pics here to see what I was left with.
    Take a look
    this one shows the tail edge that looks like air bubbles formed.

    This one shows the inside corner where no pigment stuck. It has a gloss finish with no pigment. Both inside corners are the same.

    This one if you look at the bottom of the cutout you will see another spot where there is no pigment.

    This one shows more what seem to be air bubbles.

    I had much buildup on the bottom (I cut it off) where it looks like it was too thick but the rest with no pigment make me think it was too thin. I know this is a crap shoot but do any of you guys know if I can make this better and how so?

    I also tried black oxide looks real nice but the sealer I am using stays slimy and that is not good. I emailed Caswell plating to see if that is normal and I was told it was. I know that is used for gun work and I have a hard time understanding that it stays slimy.

    Any thoughts?
    Life Is Grand

  • #2
    I used to dip paint parts when working in a foundry. The paint was thinned a bit more so there was less pooling and running.

    Some of that could be oil on the part too, more thinner will cut through that too.

    yep, more thinner.

    Comment


    • #3
      Mike thanks for the help. How much more should I thin it? Should it be so thin it runs right off the stick when stirred? Just trying to get a feeling for it.

      You have given me hope for the dip.
      Life Is Grand

      Comment


      • #4
        Dip or not to Dip part II

        As for the black oxide finish, I was using Birchwood Casey's Aluma black a while back, and recognized the smell of the (expensive) sealer that came with the kit. It smelled the same as "Mop and Glow" acrylic floor coat. I tried using it side by side with the BC sealant and they did exactly the same.
        Jim (KB4IVH)

        Only fools abuse their tools.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Scishopguy
          As for the black oxide finish, I was using Birchwood Casey's Aluma black a while back, and recognized the smell of the (expensive) sealer that came with the kit. It smelled the same as "Mop and Glow" acrylic floor coat. I tried using it side by side with the BC sealant and they did exactly the same.
          Did the sealer stay wet? Mine is slimy 2 days after sealing. Caswell said that is normal. Does not seem right to me.
          Life Is Grand

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by cybor462
            Mike thanks for the help. How much more should I thin it? Should it be so thin it runs right off the stick when stirred? Just trying to get a feeling for it.

            You have given me hope for the dip.
            I am guessing but 50% thinner is about what we used at the foundry. (boss in a rush to get good parts fast.)

            Comment


            • #7
              If you think oil might be a problem how about first dipping the parts in a solvent to degrease them?

              Comment


              • #8
                I do not think oil is an issue as I sand blast these right before dipping.
                Life Is Grand

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                • #9
                  The air supply to your sand blaster can have oil in it, so sandblasting alone does not guarantee perfect oil free parts.
                  "There is no more formidable adversary than one who perceives he has nothing to lose." - Gen. George S. Patton

                  http://www.flowbenchtech.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Heah Bruce.... the air supply I think is fine. I not only have the dryer but 4 filters and traps all of which are dry. I guess oil could still be there but if so I think it would be visible on the trap glass. I think the air is fine.

                    I am going to thin the paint more as suggested and see how it works.

                    How you been? I am feeling real old lately. Messed up my hip while running a skid steer the other day. Was leveling out tons of fill that has been piled for 2 years. My whole back yard was dirt piles. I finally got to landscaping it and messed up my hip. Has slowed me a bit.

                    Gettin old stinks!
                    Life Is Grand

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Here are a couple of things that might be helpful. First, go to the paint store and buy a viscosity meter. It is a simple tool that you put paint in and measure how long it takes to drain. That way as you thin out paint and come up with the right mixture you can measure the viscosity and then when you want to mix up another batch it will be easy.
                      Second, due to capillary action the paint will tend to pull away from dust particles, scratches, edges and inside curves. Get some "Fisheye Remover" from your auto paint dealer and add it to the paint to help it flow more evenly.

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                      • #12
                        The bubbles are from "solvent popping". Mainly, too thick on one coat, or sometimes from too soon on a second (when spraying). Using the wrong "temperature" of solvent can also do it. Once you get your process down, that should go away on it's own.

                        What about mounting it somehow in a very slow rotisserie to keep it from pooling on the bottom?
                        Russ
                        Master Floor Sweeper

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                        • #13
                          Way too cool guys! Thanks, you are on point. I had no clue. I will see about the vis. meter and get some fisheye remover. The solvent popping must be correct as I was told I am still too thick with the paint. Everything you guys have said makes perfect sense and is totally related.

                          I should have a chance to get in the shop sometime today and will try your suggestions and I will report back.
                          Life Is Grand

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I use Brass dipping Laquer.
                            It is cut about 10 parts thinner to one part Laquer . (YES!)
                            This is for fine model work without the coating showing.
                            If you stir or shake your paint, before using it, you will also get the bubbles.
                            The can must sit undisturbed for awhile .
                            I donot use a viscosity cup or gauge as was suggested. They are good.
                            I take a known piece of flat steel , like a really Flat washer (no cup!)
                            and mike it.
                            It should really be flat !
                            A old fashion razor blade works well here.
                            Then I dip it halfway into the Laquer and let it drain. When dry, I mike it.
                            I look for a coating of .0005 to .001 thick
                            don't forget the reading is double of single side measurement.
                            When I get what I want, I have the right mix.
                            strip the razor blade for future use again
                            Rich

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Dip or not to Dip part II

                              Cybor462,

                              No, the coating dryes to a satin sheen within an hour and is hard soon after that.
                              Jim (KB4IVH)

                              Only fools abuse their tools.

                              Comment

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