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Work Shop Tips from Tim (#2)

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  • Work Shop Tips from Tim (#2)

    Hey Guys,

    Last week it was improvised end mill storage tubes. How do you beat that with something even more exciting? Gee, I don't know, but I think this week's tips will equally astound and astonish! OK, here we go….three tips (or topics), wow!

    Shop Clean-Up. I spend about 20 minutes at the end of each work day doing machine maintenance or clean-up. I learned this habit from my grandfather (welding engineer) and my high school shop teacher. My shop teacher learned his trade as a Navy machinist. He was a great guy and knew his stuff. He was always very insistent on safety, organization and keeping the shop clean. I learned a lot from them both.

    Organization. Everything is organized and labeled. I don't waste much time finding parts and materials. I use 12-drawer plastic parts cabinets for common hardware, parts and components. The computer makes it easy to label everything. I don't have to think where something is, I just have to know how to read. All common hardware is positioned above the main assembly work bench; these are the #8 and #10 fasteners I use most often. All are within easy reach of the work bench.

    Processing and Lubricating New Tools. When I receive new reamers, milling cutters, dies, boring bars, etc., I process these items by cleaning them with WD-40, wiping them dry and then applying anhydrous lanolin (USP) to prevent rust. The lanolin is available at the drug store and costs about $16.00 per pound. It's a special order item, but not difficult to find. It's also available in various tool catalogs; a couple of ounces in a squeezable tube for several dollars. Better deal at the drug store. I also clean tools with a small rag with a mix of Hoppe's #9 firearms cleaning solvent and 3-In-1 آ® oil. All my tools sat unused for a year (when I was in Saudi Arabia) and rust didn't come to roost.

    Next time….The intricacies of Fluorescent Lighting as seen from the standpoint of a rank amatuer ( partially true; I do bath and use deodorant).

    Regards,

    TIM
    TIM

  • #2
    I clean my tool with soap and water.

    I find Vim OxyGel and an stainlees steel wire brush works best on the heavy greasy stuff.

    But you have to dry your tool fast or the OxyGel can rust it bad.

    And if tht does not work, I break out the D-Limonene (citrus peel oil) - non-toxic powerful cleaner. Water soluable. Can melt some plastics or paints in the pure undiluted form so do test patches if working with plastics.

    [This message has been edited by Thrud (edited 05-06-2003).]

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