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Lock for a dual tandem gooseneck trailer

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  • Lock for a dual tandem gooseneck trailer

    I have a 20 ft. dual tandem gooseneck flatbed. Relatively standard trailer with a 2-5/16" ball. I am interested in any ideas on how to lock it up when it is off the truck and on the jacks. Any ideas for securing it when it is left on the truck would be good also but my major concern is when it is parked by itself.

  • #2
    try a pair of wheel clamps use them on your truck, trailor, car, or caravan in fact anything with wheels.



    • #3
      Isn't there a locking hole on the clamping lever that when a lock is installed it prevents the lever from lifting and releasing the ball???????? If so you could cement a post into the ground and weld a 2-5/16 ball to it and lock your trailer.

      Paul G.
      Paul G.


      • #4
        Insure it and park it on the street with no worries. Check your home-owners policy to see if it covers it at home?

        I built my ex a large lawnmower trailer for back child support. It dissapeared out of her yard, She accused me and refused to pay. (1, I should not have done her a favor. (2, Silly silly me, I knew better than to expect to get even my materiel money. (3, The police rolled thier eyes when the report was filled out. In other words they had no hope of finding it. I had stamped serial numbers all over it. My ex said there was a lock on the tongue.

        I paid for both the account on the steel and the back child support. Good education in being a nice guy toward someone who failed in a relationship.
        Old irish? proverb, fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice shame on me.

        Ohh and I used to have the same dilema when I would go to work and leave my 5th wheel travel trailer in a park. All my belongings and the trailer in one whack. I would padlock the hitch.

        Thousands of ways to defeat a padlock. From twisted towels to freon freezing, to picks, bolt cutters, hammers and drilling.
        All thieves know more ways to defeat a lock then honest people for sure. I don't have a clue how many more ways there are. I saw all the above ways on construction jobs

        [This message has been edited by ibewgypsie (edited 05-17-2003).]


        • #5
          When you lock the coupler insert a ball in place of the hitch ball as a locked 2 5/16 coupler will drop down on a 1 7/8 or 2" ball and off they go.Also,in the past simple alarms had a gyro in them.If you shook the car it would set it off.One of these could run off of a battery mounted under the trailer to a speaker hidden underneath.It won't stop a pro but it will stop the average crook that doesn't know about it.Take the saftey chains off if possible and loop them through the wheels if they have some sort of holes.Lock from the backside so the lock is less exposed to hammering etc.Put the dogs house next to the tounge!Put it inside a fence out of sight.


          • #6
            I like the idea of making something with a 2-5/16" ball that locks in the hitch. I think my hitch doesn't have a place for a lock but that shouldn't be hard to add. A ball welded on a piece of angle or bar that could somehow be locked on the nose would keep the regular dopes looking for a quick hit away. I have considered a heavy chain through a wheel (s) with a big pad lock. I have heard about ideas to keep the jacks from being retracted but I am not sure about how to implement that one. The best solution would be something that could stay attached to the trailer and be pretty obvious to passers by so they would be discouraged just by looking. Main interest is security when I have to unhook the trailer for a short while at some auction or other job site. When the trailer is home it is relatively secure. When the trailer is hooked to the truck and the truck is locked it is probably hard to get the trailer without the truck but it would be nice to have a way to secure it . I could pad lock the safety chains to the rings in the truck bed. Overnight stays at some motel while on a long trip would be the concern.


            • #7
              You can get a lock that covers the ball hole.
              I use a wire rope sling through the wheel, with a large shackle lock. Make sure it's hardend (shackle). You can't hardly cut the wire rope, and a large hard shackle is very tough on good bolt cutters.
              Has worked well for me.
              Location: North Central Texas


              • #8
                The wire rope sling is a good idea and I think I just may have one almost 1 inch in diameter. It was in a pile of stuff I bought at some auction. It is too stiff for use on a most small things so I have never used it. If it is long enough it could be the answer. I have not shopped for some commercial locking device but I think I have never seen this type of item for sale at farm stores like Tractor Supply. I have found that if there is something available for sale that works it is always cheaper than building something if you put a reasonable price on your labor hours. For example broaches are expensive; go make yourself one and pay yourself $10/hr. and see how much a hexagonal broach costs. At $50/hr. it is painful to think about how much some things I own cost me. Sorry I got off subject.


                • #9
                  I have the best cure of all. Park it at my place and I'll watch it! Kidding aside; Locks only keep the honest people from taking it. If someone wants it, they'll get it.
                  Years ago, I owned a boat (20' FourWinns) that had a trailer with a removeable tonge and locking bar that fit in it's place. Not totally theft proof, but it made it harder for the "opportunity theives". If there was a way to disable the coupling, that may be the best bet.
                  "Dual Tandem" - Does that mean it has 8 wheels?


                  • #10
                    Try inserting a 2-5/16 ball that has had the threaded section cut off and lock the locking clamp down. If you have brakes on the trailer that are activated electrically you can hide a battery and apply the brakes. This still won't stop a pro but it will take some time to defeat everything. We used this on our race car trailer when we left it at the track overnight.


                    • #11
                      I used a cobra links motorcycle cable lock in the dual wheels on my camper once. What a pain, I ran it through the wagon wheel rims on the trailer. Locked the two wheels together. They had a guarantee on the lock, a theft guarantee..
                      Locking the electric brakes is not suggested. Anything that overheats the COils and electrics on something you really need when you need them is not recommended. I did short the electric coupling on it once by accident. I hung the connector on the tailgate of the truck and pulled the wires together. I noticed it when the wet axles were steaming. Brakes getting hot.


                      • #12
                        Ya I was going to tell you to cut off an old ball and lock it in but JT beat me to it,another way is to lock the landing gear,after all if they can't jack it down they can't hook it up right?I also recommend those discis style locks,they are the ones that are made out of two ss discs welded together with just a slot for the bail,almost impossible to cut unless you have a plasma cutter,I think Wal-Mart has them.
                        I just need one more tool,just one!


                        • #13
                          Those disc locks take 20 seconds to open with a cordless drill and hardly makes any noise.
                          At a former job I had to open up hundreds of diferent types of padlocks. There is not one that can't be opened quickly, quietly and simply.

                          For real security you need multiple locks and disabling devices to discourage thieves.

                          If you trailer is particularly tempting, then they will get it no matter what you do, short of guarding it 24 hours.

                          Big problem is that discouraging thieves also makes it hard for you to connect/disconnect your trailer.
                          After a while you may quit locking it and then it wil disappear.

                          There is no sure answer.


                          • #14
                            The normal use of the trailer is to haul equipment to my manufacturing building and there is an occasional need to leave the trailer parked in the dock well without the truck attached. A professional theif could show up with an acetylene torch but since the trailer would be there on a very random basis and because the area is well patrolled and lighted at night I think the most likely threat is drive by people who happen to have a truck with a hitch. The other threat is in case of having to leave the trailer sitting at some other unusual site. Again it is the opportunity theif, I want enough protection to make the professionals chose someone else's rig. I have a great deal of Smith and Wesson protection service and awareness to go with some type of lock.


                            • #15
                              The most difficult padlock to open, for me, was the Multilock 5/8" shackle padlock with the ductile iron shackle guard.
                              Its an expensive lock, pickproof because of telescopic pins, boltcutter proof, and difficult to drill out because of hardened guard over the keyway and hardened inserts in the cylinder.
                              Knowing all the above, I opened it it 30 seconds with a gasoline powered saw.

                              It would have been easier to destroy the shackle, but it was a tenannts lock and the bosses building.

                              Usually the chain or shackle is easier to defeat than the padlock. (if its a good lock)

                              Another good lock is the Medeco cylindered military surplus locks available in some surplus and sporting goods catalogs. Its built similar to the Multilock with an integral shackle guard of hardened steel.
                              Problem to make key copies though. The blanks are exclusive to the military, and can't be had. You may be able to mill a blank and take it to a local locksimth to copy though.

                              Neither of these are cheap, but they are about the best available.

                              I would recommend a minimum of 2 locked onto substantial chains, hasps, etc.
                              It should be more difficult to cut the hasp or chain than the lock.

                              At your place, you can place sockets inthe ground for removable stanchions that can be padlocked to the sockets. Then, a vehicle wont be able to approach the dock area and the trailer cant leave.

                              For on the road, as many locking devices as you can tolerate.

                              Good luck.