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A boy and his lathe...

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  • A boy and his lathe...

    So I'm in the process of putting my Atlas lathe back together. I tore it down to replace the head stock bearings. While I'm at it, I figured, clean it and paint it. So, I got questions as I undertake this. Right now, I have 3:

    1. So whats the trick to removing the inner race of the timken bearing on the main shaft? The one closest to the chuck. I see no way to put in a press, and nothing I can safely hammer against. I guess if I wanted to spend 3 hours on it, I could slowly whittle through it with a diamond cutting disc and a dremel. Any advice?

    2. The back gear shaft. How is it disassembled so I can get the gears off? The inner shaft is mounted of center of the outer one. So the gear can't slide from one to the other. Does that make sense? I'm sure it does if you've ever taken the back gear shaft apart on an Atlas. I'll post a pic if I have to.

    3. This sort of just came to me a few minutes ago. I'm sitting there, having a post work beer, looking at what's done. Bed is back on the bench, naked, so to speak. I'm looking at the mounting of the whole motor mounting assembly. When it dawns on me. Twist in the bed is bad, yes? Of course. Even a little twist is bad. So, isn't hanging a big heavy motor suspended from the back of one end of the bed going to cause twist? I mean, it's way out there with all that leverage. And it right at the very end, with nothing that I can see to counter weight it. Maybe it's because I'm not looking at the whole assembly, but it sure seems like bed twist would be the result of this mounting system. Is this a problem? Has anyone mounted the motor to the bench to prevent twist? Or am I missing something?

  • #2
    My lathe is solid mounted and I did the final leveling with the major components in place. Benchtop Logan's have a rubber mounted drive box affair that isn't solidly mounted to the headstock so I didn't bother with the motor, but it sounds like you should hang the motor on your Atlas.

    Wish I could help on questions 1 and 2 but my old Logan's all I know.



    • #3
      Thanks for the info. I looked a little closer and I may be over-thinking the whole motor mount thing. Sure, it mounts on the lathe, but the actual mounting point is very low on the "foot" of the lathe. I would guess most of the weight is pretty much being transmitted straight to the bench.

      That said, I'm still stuck on how I'm going to get that stupid bearing race off the shaft! As for the back gear shaft, I don't HAVE to remove te gears, but I would like to. Getting the gears off means removing the shaft from it's brackets and allowing me to paint the bracket. It would be a shame to get the whole thing together with nice new paint and have one stupid little bracket look ratty.

      Of course, once I get all this sorted, I'll then have to post the thread about how to replace the new timken bearings.

      I bought the lathe 2 years ago for $100, in good working condition, but ugly. I guess it's too much to ask for to have a lathe that works good AND looks good all for a $100 investment.


      • #4
        You probably need what is called a bearing separator. Just two plates with a round depression to fit around bearing. A quick search on google will show you what they look like. For a one off, most any auto garage or machine shop should be able to press it off for a very nominal fee in about 5 minutes...

        Here is what they look like:

        They come in different sizes and when placed flat on a press table, make quick work of most bearings. A puller can be attached to holes in separator and a threaded shaft can push against spindle, also look up bearing/gear pullers.

        To reinstall new bearing, a bath (bearing) in hot oil (over campstove in yard, so as to not burn house down..) will make install easier. You can even put spindle in freezer to help .
        Last edited by Bguns; 12-02-2007, 03:42 AM.


        • #5
          A boy and his lathe...a slightly bigger one..


          • #6
            you have a torch? quickly heat a spot on the race red hot and smack it with a chisel. this will expand the race. You may have to do it on both sides


            • #7
              Originally posted by Milacron of PM

              For some reason that just makes me want to turn on the spindle....



              • #8
                Now Now peter tis Sunday after all Alistair
                Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


                • #9
                  I dont care how tight you clamp him --- your not going to get a good finish...


                  • #10
                    Thanks for the info bguns. I'm familiar with them. Until recently, I made my living as a motorcycle mechanic. We used them often. Only thing is, in this case the bearing is right up against a shoulder in the shaft. No room to get the seperator in there.

                    rbrgen, I do have torches. I hadn't resorted to that yet. I guess thats my next move.

                    I do have one more thing, but I'm not sure it will work. Let me run it by you guys. When I was a motorcycle tech, from time to time you'd get a bearing outer race stuck in something. The old trick for that was to carefully run a bead of weld around the otuer race. The weld would shrink and take the race with it. It would just fall out. You would think the weld would heat it and lock it in tighter, but it doesn't. Anyhow, I'm wondering if it works on an outer race stuck in something, would it work on an inner race stuck on something?


                    • #11
                      Yup, a bead run around an inner race will heat it faster than the heat can transfer to the shaft thereby loosening it. When I was a pup I had a bearing on the rotor of a 75 hp motor that resisted all of my regular pullers. So I borrowed the machinist's big hydraulic press, all 100 tons of it. First thing that happened was that the outer race shattered under pressure and sent shrapnel all round the shop. I was standing there with a lost look on my face that said "Glad to escape that without injury, but I dunno what to do now" when the mechanical foreman entered the shop. He gave the job one quick look, told me to run up the pressure while he grabbed the stinger. Three quick beads run on the inner race and POP off it came. The key idea is to have the race under pressure when you run the bead because you are heating and expanding it rapidly. If you let it cool, you've got a bigger problem.

                      A stuck outer race is the other way around. No pressure, run a bead and let it cool. The contraction of the weld metal will loosen the race in its housing.



                      • #12
                        You took the words right outa my mouth.
                        I use my mig to shrink races out of MC frames, I also do it to pull valve seats out of heads. I would try it. But that's just me.
                        By the way, I've had the back gear shaft apart to clean it up on my 10-F
                        Atlas, I can't remember to tell how, but I do remember once I figured it out and did it, I couldn't believe I took so long to figger it out.
                        As far as forgetting how, Sorry but old age and too many years of being a wrench and being around petro-chemicals has taken it's toll.
                        I quit wrenching years ago (professionally) and its the best thing I ever did.
                        grumpy old fart


                        • #13
                          Lots of people here who deal strictly with atlas/craftsman equipment.....Sure to be someone who can help:


                          Or contact clausing corp., they handle atlas parts list and manuals:

                          574 533 0371

                          Been to long and I can't recall exactly how to do it.....



                          • #14
                            I may try talking to Clausing. I was aware of the Yahoo group, but I'm not a Yahoo member. Hate to join just for that. But thanks for the info. I think I'm ok for getting the bearing off now. Still lost on getting the darn back gear shaft apart.