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using a giant slitting/cutting blade

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  • using a giant slitting/cutting blade

    i happen to have this 10" or 12" slitting saw, about 1/8" thick. it is currently mounted on a 1" arbor for my B&S No. 2 horizontal mill. i need to cut a 2.3" thick piece of plate steel. the cut would be 25" long (i have a 8" wide piece and need to cut it into a 5" wide piece and a ~3" wide piece).

    can i use the big slitting saw (it looks like a mean-assed circular saw blade)?
    if i can use the slitting saw, any guesses as to what blade speed and feed speeds i should use? and what kind of coolant should i be dumping all over everything for this process?

    remember, i am somewhat of a newbie still, and i have never attempted this operation and have never witnessed it being done. should i just fire up the bandsaw and take an hour (or three or five) to do it that way?

    andy b.
    The danger is not that computers will come to think like men - but that men will come to think like computers. - some guy on another forum not dedicated to machining

  • #2
    A 10" or 12" slitting saw !! Migod, that would scare the brown out of me!

    I have to note, though, that the biggest slitting saw I've ever used was only THREE inches across and .0625" thick.

    One thing to keep in mind is that with a saw that big, the speed at the rim is going to be pretty high... like 3000 LFPM at 1000 RPM. So if you can find the tables somewhere, you can estimate speed/feed.

    The Emco/Maier manual offers an interesting alternative (probably more suitable to a small machine like the Maximat): Mill out a slot at least halfway through the stock, along the line that you need, and then finish the cut on the bandsaw. Of course you'd then have to go back to the mill to make your final dimension/finish cut.

    Keep us posted on how this works out.

    Pete in NJ
    Pete in NJ

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    • #3
      Use the bandsaw, you're just asking for trouble with that big saw blade

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      • #4
        yeah, i am a bit terrified at the thought of firing it up as well.
        the thing is, the saw actually came with the mill, and in fact was mounted in it when i bought it. the place that used the mill last was actually using the saw to mill long, deep slots in things. like i said, i never witnessed it in action, and the mill wasn't covered in blood when i bought it, so SOMEONE had the cajones to fire it up and use it. i'll have to post a photo of the blade tonight.

        i am thinking the bandsaw will be slower, but much less deadly.

        andy b.
        The danger is not that computers will come to think like men - but that men will come to think like computers. - some guy on another forum not dedicated to machining

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        • #5
          I think it would work fine. But SLOW speed and feed due to diameter and thickness of material. Add some juice to it also.

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          • #6
            I think those are generally milling cutters used on big horizontals. I wouldn't want to use that on a stub arbor in a vertical. I've got some 6" cutters that came in a lot with smaller cutters I wanted, but I've never tried to run them.
            Russ
            Master Floor Sweeper

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            • #7
              In truth, the bandsaw is faster than a slitter blade. While the surface would have to be machined if a smooth surface is needed after bandsawing it would have to be machined after the slitter blade cut.

              You will need a good band saw and blade and be good with a bandsaw but it is faster.
              It's only ink and paper

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              • #8
                I bet that's really a blade for a table saw used for cutting aluminum.

                If you figured at cutting steel at 100fpm the circumference of a 10" blade
                is pi*D. That's 10/12ft * 3.14 = 2.16 ft. for a cutting speed of 47rpm.
                IF the saws plate would stand it.

                You can cut AL on a table saw with carbide blades no problem other
                than all the flying chips.

                Larry S
                Larry Swearingen
                Fort Wayne, IN
                New Hoosier

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                • #9
                  it would be my recommendation not to climb mill

                  feeds also need to be slow slow slow. I'd start by hand increasing until it no longer felt right. problem is theoretical feeds don't work because slitting saws, never seem to get centered perfectly on the mandrel and therefor only cut on part of the revolution. speculation on my part though, I have not run 12' saw into steel.

                  oh right, you have a bandsaw - I agree Carl that is the way to go. i'd bet the slitting saw feed, because of above, would be slower than the band saw feed - were they cutting steel with it?
                  Last edited by Mcgyver; 12-06-2007, 02:27 PM.
                  .

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                  • #10
                    I have a 9" x 1/16" ~4 or 5 tip slitting saw that I use in my table saw for cutting aluminum. I have a kool mist mounted under the table blowing on the blade to lube it and keep it cool. Works great for cutting aluminum little too fast for acrylic though. Though I do need to change the pulleys to slow it down a bit.

                    Really need the kool mist unit though. When cutting the outside rim of the blade will expand and warp the blade. It will start wobbling till it cools back down. The koolmist also make wood cuts cleaner too... Who would have thunk it...

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                    • #11
                      I too would think that you would have to feed more slowly with the slotting saw than with the bandsaw.

                      The thing I would really fear with that much blade in the stock is that stresses would want to close the slot a bit on the blade and things can get really ugly. I know very little about their proper use except reading from others who have more experience. One thing I remember is that side-cutting cutters were needed with deeper cuts. If that one doesn't have side cutting surfaces, I would definitely avoid it. Heck...I would avoid it anyway

                      Paul
                      Paul Carpenter
                      Mapleton, IL

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                      • #12
                        my wife had the camera all evening, so i didn't get a photo. it is 10" in diameter and 1/8" thick. it definitely does NOT look like one of the aluminum cutting blades you could use on a table saw. it looks a lot like this, only 10" diameter:

                        http://cgi.ebay.com/Side-Chip-Slitti...mZ300140350937

                        even though i can run the mill slow enough (i think it will go down to 32 RPM or so), i think i'll go with the bandsaw option. the giant slitting saw will just be a good conversation piece for now.

                        you guys would probably like the other cutter i got with it. it is 12" diameter and 1" wide. it must weigh at least 20 pounds. that baby would really hog some metal off!!!

                        andy b.
                        The danger is not that computers will come to think like men - but that men will come to think like computers. - some guy on another forum not dedicated to machining

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                        • #13
                          Make a clock out of it or something

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                          • #14
                            'would not suggest climb cutting' Didn't take but a microsecond for me to agree with that.

                            Ever heard of friction welding- I can see it now, a big chunk of metal with a blade permanently mounted in it. A real conversation piece.
                            I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc- I'm following my passion-

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