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Tapping/threading on a turret lathe?

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  • #16
    Mine uses 1" tooling. I've accumulated a selection of drill chucks (DR is right, WAY long!) along with a range of drill bushings, a selection of the adjustable center "V-block" holders, a box tool, a knee tool (gotta build a gib), and a pair of index adjustable boring blocks. I also have a floating 1" die holder, but no die head. I'm too cheap to pay what they generally go for, but one day. I also want to add a dual bit "ballanced" turning tool, and a floating tap/reamer holder, but other than that, I think I'm covered. Well, other than learning to use it all!
    Master Floor Sweeper


    • #17
      Thanks again guys! I sure do appreciate the stuff you guys teach me. I sometimes do the "It's close enough" thing in my work. I close enough is usually far better than most peoples "to spec" in the fab biz.
      But you guys bring a whole new level to what I'm (learning) to do.
      The little precision techniques I learn here are what's setting my business apart from other outfits in my area.
      And it's making me a far better teacher for my newbie helper (yup...the gurl).
      In a year she's learned more than I did in 10...doing it myself the hard way.
      I'm not kissing anyones butt here...just stating a true fact. BTW...I hate butt kissers. But I sure do like this place!
      I have tools I don't even know I own...


      • #18
        OK...Couldn't sleep...fretting about this one. Make my own drill bushings....uh huh. I order a standard set of 5C collets. These are in 1/16" increments. So how do I make near perfect bushings? EG...The letter "F" drill I use so to make a perfect bushing? With a 5C collet in the chuck?
        And slitting them...will the .025 width on my bandsaw work or do I need a slitting saw to do this?
        I'm missing some stuff here...
        I have tools I don't even know I own...


        • #19
          The 5-C collet is a pull back type collet, not really appropriate for a turret lathe set up for bar feeding. Be good for a secondary set-up if used with a collet stop screwed in the back of the collet.
          For primary set-ups, turret lathes use a dead length collet, or a push-out type (most prevalent) against a dead length stop in the turret.
          If possible, obtain the W&S book mentioned above, its got a lot stuff in it.
          I'll try and get some pictures tomorrow, and a drill holder too! Really pretty easy. Remember the KISS principle.
          Last edited by beckley23; 01-01-2008, 09:52 AM.


          • #20
            I had no idea there were so many things you could stick in a turret. So far all I've done is ring mine with drill chucks and a dead center, but I can see where that needs to change!

            Some questions;

            On the tapping devices how do you deal with all of the various tap shank sizes?

            Knee and box tools are used for cutting what? Small shoulders?

            How important are the adj chuck holders? My particular turret has been bored to 13/16" holes and they seem to be accurate. As long as I give the turret a good wiggle to make sure the pin's fully seated and then remember to clamp it down the dead center is true to the spindle. Within .001 at somewhere over a foot. I checked it with a test cut when I put the lathe together ....

            Now that I think about it I did have to shim the rear gib forward .002 to get that cut. Are the adj. mounts for correcting that sort of thing?



            • #21
              Torq. I know a little about tool bushings. Turn the OD to size and drill the ID undersize , and then ream or bore the ID to finish size in the same setup. Part off. Mill a set screw flat on it. With a .016(or whatever you have handy) slitting saw, slit it NEARLY in half. Perfectly suitable tool bushing. It gets a little more complicated if you are going to heat treat them.
              OTOH Keep any eye open in Ebay and snag some there. Hardinge, Somma, and Spellman are all good.

              Another thing. Whenever possible check the floating tool holders in person. These things get abused and some of the shanks can be bent or the threads stripped out.


              • #22
                There are bushings for the different tap shank sizes.
                They usually run;
                '00' = 1/2 inch (the OD of the bushing)

                '0' = 5/8

                3/4 is 3/4

                '2' = 1 inch

                I never dealt much with the larger sizes. Most of the home shop people will use the above sizes. Unless you have room for some really big machines.


                • #23
                  Hey Russ

                  Drill holders for turret lathes and screw machines are of two primary designs, the ‘V’ type, usually utilized for smaller drills of a given diameter range, they locate the drill in a ‘V’ similar to clamping round stock in a ‘V’ block, the other type utilized drill holder bushings, these bushings would often be quite crude, often they would just have a cross hole drilled in them so a setscrew could tighten down on the shank of the drill through the hole in the bushing.

                  The key to all of this is that ALL tool holders are adjustable to put the tool on center with the spindle – accuracy is directly proportional to the patience of the guy setting up the machine. The manufacturers realized there was no way that the turret holes would be exactly in line with the spindle given the mechanism involved. If you break it down, the drill can be held in a pretty crude fashion as long as it is held straight – parallel to the shank.

                  Here’s a picture, the one in the upper left is the ‘V’ type, the two capscrews on the sides are for adjustment – for centering the tool – the tool is compromised of two primary pieces, the shank side and the drill side, the faces where the two meet is where the adjustment takes place. The one just below it is the bushing style, it adjusts in a similar fashion, but uses a bushing between the drill and holder. It would work equally well if the bushing were split or the setscrew passed through a hole and seated on the drill shank.

                  As far as making the bushings, I haven’t been around here long enough to know what equipment you have at your disposal, but if you’re asking how to make the bushings themselves just on this turret lathe – well that might be a challenge, it could be done, I mean it’s done all the time that’s the kind of work these things do. I guess what I’m saying, is that if you’re going to be building tooling for this thing you really need a lathe for the one off stuff …………… Well, I guess not really, you’re a crafty guy, just take the stock size that fits your particular drill holder, you’ve undoubtedly got a couple of drill chucks you could fit to ¾ straight shafts, collet the stock, spot drill and drill for the size drill you want to hold, then either slit the bushing or cross drill it on drill press or your mill drill.

                  Incidentally, the turret holes on these machines can be sleeved with a split sleeve – I’d do that and bring yours down to 5/8” – lots more tooling, AND if you acquire any ¾” stuff, simply pull out the sleeve

                  Hope this helps


                  Just found this example - it shows the adjustment for centering better - under the head of those hex head capscrews is a sufficiently oversized hole to allow for a fair amount of adjustment, in practice the screws were left a little loose and the drill was advanced into the work carefully by hand, it naturally wants to find center, so once on center, the operator snugged up the screws, then checked to see if it was still on by running it into the work again - sometimes you'll use an indicator in the spindle for very precise work.

                  Last edited by chandler0109; 01-01-2008, 12:05 PM.


                  • #24
                    On the tap holders, I stepped up the drill sizes until I got a loose slip fit for the small taps. On the larger ones, I bored for a slip fit. The taps are held in place with setscrews. I used drill rod. On some I had to do some polishing as drill rod isn't perfect.

                    On the drill bushings I have made so far, same deal.
                    Jon Bohlander
                    My PM Blog


                    • #25
             I see! I thought I'd have to make a bushing to fit the turret, then drill it with the collet chuck so it would be centered. Couldn't figure how I'd get all the different sizes of drill bits to fit in the collets. much to learn!
                      Thanks for the pics! Helps a lot to see what you meant.
                      I have tools I don't even know I own...


                      • #26
                        I'm having photobucket issues but here is my tapping head disassembled. More pics to come.

                        Jon Bohlander
                        My PM Blog


                        • #27
                          Here are some pictures of some of the tooling I've got for my turret lathes. I know this stuff is a lot larger than what you have, and some of it is flange mounted, but you should be able to find similar items to fit your machine. In case you're wondering, the blue hose is for thru the tool coolant on one station of the turret.
                          The first 2 pictures are of a set up I have for running the a job and the names of the tools will start with the tool in line with the spindle and go CCW.

                          Revolving feed stop, knee tool, and empty straight shank holder.

                          Drill chuck with 3/4" drill bit, die head, and 3 hole multi tool holder(empty).

                          the next 2 pictures are of the die head opened and closed, note the position of the handle and chasers.

                          I'll continue in the next post.
                          Last edited by beckley23; 01-02-2008, 06:33 PM.


                          • #28
                            Tapping head and tap holder. I made the holder and the 2 set screws are for alternate positions of the tap's square shank.

                            Roller turner on left, slide tool on right.

                            Adjustable tool holders.

                            The die head mounted in a shop made adjustable tool holder.



                            • #29
                              Harry, It is a W/S, but what #? There is just enough difference from my 1941 #3 to make me wonder.


                              • #30
                                It's a #5 J&L, but the slide tool and roller turner are for my #3W&S, as is some of the other tooling.
                                It's a 2-1/2" bar capacity, 15 HP and with hydrualic bar feeder weighs about 7500 LBS. IIRC it was made in 1951.