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  • New VFD wiring & setup

    Just got a Hitachi SJ200-022NFU2 to power the Baldor 3hp/3~ motor on my mill.
    Bearing in mind that I have trouble setting my watch, I think I'm getting the hang of these instructions regardless.
    1) L1, L2 and N/L3 on the input; L1-2 could either be red or black...one leg or the other makes no difference I assume? N/L3 is neutral and ground goes to the ground tab on the VFD.
    2) Am I reading correctly that there should NOT be a disconnect between the breaker and VFD? So I'll feed the power directly to the VFD and remove the OE switch completely.
    3) U,V & W from VFD to the motor; again, no specifics as to which wire bundle on the motor each is connected to?
    Should I run the motor ground to the ground tab on the VFD or just to the motor case?

    And as I read further I'm guessing they'll tell me how to reverse the motor?

    I don't use coolant so I'm thinking I'll just mount this to the side of the mill head where the OE switch is and no harm should come to it.

    How'm I doing?
    Last edited by QSIMDO; 01-12-2008, 09:55 PM.
    Len

  • #2
    I've got the same VFD in the 3/4HP flavor. Because I'm not completely understanding your questions, how about I supply a picture of mine?



    The black and white wires on the left (L1,L3) are 220V input. You don't need a neutral/return/gnd or whatever you wanna call it. Just those 2. The green wire on the left is earth gnd, not part of the 220 circuit.

    The Blk/Wht/Red on the right, (U,V,W) go to the motor. The green wire that follows those 3 into the conduit is connected to the motor case.

    For brakes you'll need an appropriate resistor connected between RB and +1 on the middle level terminal. Those are the brown and white wires on mine.

    Haven't got a clue what size or wattage resistor a 3HP needs but if you're nice to the Hitachi rep he'll tell you! Worked for me. Just don't buy one from them. $100 plus for something you can source yourself for less.

    The FWD/Reverse is the 3 little wires on top in the pic. I used a drum switch just because I like the way they work but a toggle will do.

    Hope that helps.

    SP

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by QSIMDO
      2) Am I reading correctly that there should NOT be a disconnect between the breaker and VFD? So I'll feed the power directly to the VFD and remove the OE switch completely.
      You can wire a master cutoff switch between the mains and the VFD, but it doesn't like to have a switch between the VFD and the motor.

      And as I read further I'm guessing they'll tell me how to reverse the motor?
      That's right -- I don't have my Hitachi VFD anymore, but there's a menu option for motor direction: Forward or Reverse. You can also wire an external input for motor direction, so you can set it via a switch.
      "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

      Comment


      • #4
        Pntrbl, they show 3 wires going to L1, L2, L3 for my model in the manual and on this page;
        http://www.driveswarehouse.com/image...Connection.jpg
        What's the 3rd wire?
        Len

        Comment


        • #5
          Lazlo,
          So one would normally just use the RUN & STOP/RESET buttons to power things up?
          Len

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by QSIMDO
            Pntrbl, they show 3 wires going to L1, L2, L3 for my model in the manual and on this page;
            http://www.driveswarehouse.com/image...Connection.jpg
            What's the 3rd wire?
            Gosh Len, it's been the better part of a year since I hooked mine up but I'll hang in there with ya!

            That link you posted looked familiar but I couldn't read it. Let me see if I can clear some of this up. People normally associate 220 with 3 wires. 2 hot legs are 110 and a return/neutral etc. In an appliance like a dryer there are some components that need 110. The motor for one. So the motor gets connected to one hot leg and the neutral for the 110 it needs. The heating element needs the 220 and it will connected to the 2 hot legs. 110 + 110 = 220.

            My air compressor on the other hand has a 220V motor and no requirement for 110. So all it uses are the 2 hot legs.

            Same thing for your VFD. Just the 2 hot legs. 110's not needed.

            On the reverse you have to use the menu to get the VFD to turn the motor around unless you use a remote switch and there's no way I remember how to do that! LOL! I do remember even after you put a remote switch on it you have to tell the VFD it's there or it won't work.

            The manual is difficult. These VFD's can do a whole lot more than what we need to run a 3ph motor and all the extra info is what makes it so hard to find the nuggets you need.

            If I can help...

            SP

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by QSIMDO
              So one would normally just use the RUN & STOP/RESET buttons to power things up?
              Yep, that's it. I either have the VFD within arm's reach, or I remote the speed potentiometer, the Forward/Reverse, and the E-Stop buttons.
              "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by QSIMDO
                Just got a Hitachi SJ200-022NFU2 to power the Baldor 3hp/3~ motor on my mill.
                Same VFD that I have. Nice one.

                1) L1, L2 and N/L3 on the input; L1-2 could either be red or black...one leg or the other makes no difference I assume? N/L3 is neutral and ground goes to the ground tab on the VFD.
                L1 and L2 get the hot legs, the order doesn't matter. The others are right.

                2) Am I reading correctly that there should NOT be a disconnect between the breaker and VFD? So I'll feed the power directly to the VFD and remove the OE switch completely.
                You can or not, think of it as a power switch to the VFD (as long as you're breaking both hot). Don't put anything between the VFD and the motor.

                3) U,V & W from VFD to the motor; again, no specifics as to which wire bundle on the motor each is connected to?
                Once connected start it in forward, if it runs backwards simply swap any 2 leads.

                Should I run the motor ground to the ground tab on the VFD or just to the motor case?
                I would.

                I don't use coolant so I'm thinking I'll just mount this to the side of the mill head where the OE switch is and no harm should come to it.
                Just far enough that long coils from drilling can't fall into it.

                You'll want to run the 'self programming' cycle (I can't recall the exact name) and get a resistor, I could look up the size on mine as I simply hung a big 300W power resistor. I set the accel/decel time to 2 seconds, you can make it stop a lot faster but there's no point.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I forgot to add: after programming the 2 second deceleration time don't reach out the spindle and grab it to stop it. I was used to doing that and the VFD surprised me by driving the spindle to make sure that it took 2 seconds to stop. I never had the spindle fight back before, was sort of odd until I broke that habit.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by rkepler
                    You'll want to run the 'self programming' cycle (I can't recall the exact name) and get a resistor, I could look up the size on mine as I simply hung a big 300W power resistor. I set the accel/decel time to 2 seconds, you can make it stop a lot faster but there's no point.

                    Resistor?
                    They didn't mention a resistor.
                    What does that do and where does it go?

                    And thank you all VERY much!
                    If it wasn't for your kindness I might as well try to wire in a rock!
                    Len

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      He's talking about the braking resistor Len.

                      You don't need it right away -- the VFD can decelerate the motor pretty quickly without one. But with an external braking resistor, you can stop the motor almost instantaneously.
                      "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Ahh, cool, thanks.

                        I think I may have a larger problem though.

                        Just read a document from Hitachi about sizing the VFD for single phase input and the upshot is to "take the motor's name plate "full load amperage" rating and double it, then size the VFD to cover that figure."

                        Yeah, well....if I'm reading specs for the Baldor VM3559T correctly it's "7.8-7.4/3.7"
                        So 15.6 for the motor and the VFD is rated at 11 amps.

                        I may use hyphenated profanity.
                        Len

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by QSIMDO
                          Yeah, well....if I'm reading specs for the Baldor VM3559T correctly it's "7.8-7.4/3.7"
                          So 15.6 for the motor and the VFD is rated at 11 amps.
                          Yikes, that could be a problem. Try it and see, worst case will be an over current fault. One of my machines cycles continuously, if left for 5 minutes or so to idle at very low rpm, 100 rpm or less, the VFD gives an over current fault and quits. Reset and good to go.

                          I see some of the new VFD's are rated for full HP whether single or three phase input. That makes life much easier.

                          Regarding reversing the motor......if the VFD doesn't have a reverse button, you could rig a switch between the VFD and motor to interchange two leads. BUT!!! you would have to be careful not switching while the VFD is powered up.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by QSIMDO
                            I think I may have a larger problem though.

                            if I'm reading specs for the Baldor VM3559T correctly it's "7.8-7.4/3.7"
                            So 15.6 for the motor and the VFD is rated at 11 amps.
                            I think you're fine Len. According to Baldor, your motor is 7.6 - 8.1A max at 208 - 230V (you don't add the two amperages together). In other words, your motor load is between 7.6 and 8.1 Amps, depending on your line voltage:

                            http://www.baldor.com/products/specs...40C+AMB%2DCONT

                            As a sanity check, 746 Watts per Horsepower X 3 HP = 2238 Watts / 220V = 10 Amps.

                            So your VFD has more than enough power.

                            Good luck!

                            Robert
                            "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

                            Comment

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