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Shank is stuck in my criterion boring head

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  • Shank is stuck in my criterion boring head

    Well.. As If I don't have enough to do.. I went to pull the shank out of the boring head I bought and turn it to fit a Kwik-switch collet. (1") It is stuck pretty good.. I hate to heat it and ruin the finish on the metal. I have tried the old pipe wrench, the metal is so hard it just spins and won't bite.. Should I weld a bar to it? I think it is a 7/8" fine thread. I am tempted to weld a bolt to it and rattle wrench it? (right after I beat it with a large hammer)

    Any suggestions before I go postal on it?

    Also It has a square hole for the boring bar? so far I can't and haven't found one. Will a round 3/4 fit and not wobble? Will I have to make one? I have some kennemetal heads.

    Any online information on using one of these gadgets? Should I just use common sense? (you don't know me ver-wie well do you?)

    Nice paper weight right now. Pretty and heavy.

  • #2
    Try submerging it in hot oil. This will protect the finish on the metal and heat it gently and uniformly. This is a technique that they use for fitting bearings.


    [This message has been edited by Rotate (edited 05-31-2003).]


    • #3
      Well if it's of no use to you I'll take it off your hands
      Rule #1 be 10% smarter then what you\'re working on.
      Rule #2 see Rule #1


      • #4
        If the shank fits your spindle leave it on - it will be more accurate thatn in the Quick-change holder.

        You can use Cemented Carbide in them thar holes...but most round bars have clamping flats and you can fake it. Make your own when you get the mill up and running again.

        Dave (the 450Lb. hairy one)

        [This message has been edited by Thrud (edited 05-31-2003).]


        • #5
          There was a kwik switch boring bar collet on ebay I think it went for 120+ too rich for my blood.
          I don't have a collet to fit the 1 1/2 shank is the problem. It won't go in anything I got.
          Enco has shanks in all sizes.. but I got to get this one out.. I probably can't turn it anyways, it is that hard acting.


          • #6
            This probably too obvious but, is it a left hand thread????????

            Paul G.
            Paul G.


            • #7
              Ibew ther should be no reason that you have to heat it till it is cherry red with a blow torch. I had a faceplate stuck fast on my woodworking lathe couldnt get it to budge so afriend showed mw that you don't need a massive amount of heat to get something to move, we used a hot air gun and waited and waited but it eventually came off as sweet as a nut. So why not give it a try you shouldn't have to use an open flame at least I didn't so maybe it will work Alistair
              Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


              • #8
                I have to chime in after Paul:

                Are you sure it is not an integral shank - those are always a bitch to get off! (Just kidding...)

                Use heat as Alistair suggests, clamp the shank in the vise and put a strap wrench on the head. If you don't have a strap wrench a pipe wrench will do if you protect the head with heavy leather (or something like it) from the jaws of the pipe wrench.

                [This message has been edited by Thrud (edited 05-31-2003).]


                • #9
                  If the shank has a center hole you can turn it down by holding the head in the 4 jaw and the shank on the tail center. No removal needed.
                  If its too hard to turn even with carbide, then grind it. If you don't have a TP grinder rig up a die grinder or even a 4.5" angle grinder.
                  I think the die grinder will give a better finish. (better bearings)

                  It may be an integral shank. So turning it down together may be the only way.


                  • #10
                    timming belts make good strap wrenches. Flatten as need a piece of emt, shove thru till end sticks out and crimp on the end you wont use. use larger emt sizes so it won't crimp (bend). Sometimes use with cogs down , other times cogs up works better.


                    • #11
                      As for the square hole, make a bushing from a piece of 3/4" square.
                      Bore hole down axis and then slit so it can collapse and grip round (1/2" 5/8") boring bar shank when the setscrews are tightened.