Maximat V10

**SGW** · 09-21-2001, 11:51 AM

I think the Maximat, especially with tooling, is likely to be a far better deal than any Chinese import. The Maximat is/was made in Austria and is of excellent quality. The import stuff....welll......

The original $2K price sounds pretty reasonable to me. If you can get it for $900, grab it fast. (Assuming it's in good condition, of course, and apparently it is.)

**Thrud** · 09-21-2001, 01:38 PM

Will,

I have a Maximat 7 with the 4 speed milling head and I would not sell it for any money. I bought mine at an estate auction for $1450 Canadian and I thought I got a great deal.

If you get a Schnaublin E25 Collet holder email me and I will tell you how to get a complete set of collets for half what Blue Ridge Machinery asks for the OEM collets.

You are very lucky to have found it. And it has lots of stuff with it! Once you start using it you will appreciate that "Austrian" feel. Repair parts are expensive (the downside) - so don't break anything!

Have fun and be safe!

Dave Smith
[email protected]

**willjordan** · 09-27-2001, 05:25 PM

I got the MaximatV10; I had to pay $1,000 for it. I go pick it up tonight.

I'll post an inventory of the tooling when I get it all together. When I went to look at it, things kept appearing -- like the toolpost grinder.

I expect to get more expert information here as I get it home. Since the bench it's mounted on is a heavy and permanently-attached-to-the-house wooden bench, my next challenge is to build a bench for it. My skills would make it easy to build a heavy wooden bench for it, lots of glue, screws, and layers, but would I be better off with a metal bench. I guess the issue is whether it is necessary for the bench to add to the rigidity of the lathe? I can make a solid, heavy, wooden bench. I'm not certain that a bolted up metal bench would be any more rigid.

Ideas?

------------------
grace & peace
will

**Thrud** · 09-27-2001, 07:10 PM

Glad you got it - hope you have fun with it!

I have my Maximat7 on an IBM Line printer (the old printer weighed in at 2800Lbs.) stand so I can move it around. The top is made of glued & screwed 3/4" hardwood plywood in 3 layers. This is a kludge to be sure - but I have no space to have a proper stand at the moment.

If you are forced to use a wood top covering it with a formed 14Ga.(or heavier) stainless or cold rolled top would make it much cleaner and stronger.

The best supports I have used are made of heavywall pipe in a welded spaceframe configuration. They get Hilte'ed to the concrete floor then the machine is leveled on the stand. If you fill the pipe with sand or concrete it adds more mass to the stand. Sand will dampen vibrations better than the concrete.

I like the way Hardinge sells the HLV-xx lathes - plastic guards flip down from the back to protect the operator from the chuck and flying metal. They also have coolant proof lighting installed. Nice stuff.

**willjordan** · 12-20-2001, 03:57 PM

It's several months later and I have my bench just about finished.

What is an L20 collet, anyway.

Dave: You said something about an other collet option; how did you go about this.

I'll get pictures of the late as soon as I get it up on the bench

------------------
grace & peace
will

**Thrud** · 12-21-2001, 12:29 AM

Will

If you have the E25 Schnaublin MT#2 Collet holder, instead of using the expensive Emco E25 collets like Blue ridge sells, all you need to use standard ER-25 collets (self extracting) is a ER-25 Nut (preferably Ball Bearing type - Lyndex is the best, Narex is ok, but locktite the bearing retaining screw in before using it - I lost all my balls that way!), a wrench for the ER-25 Nut, and ER-25 Collets.

The Ball Bearing Nut is better than a plain steel one because it allows you to tighten it tighter than the steel nut.

I could not find any reference to a L20, is it a big, ugly rubber and steel collet?

If you have a MT#5 spindle you can make a 5C sleeve to fit in the spindle. They may be available commercially as well.

Hope you are having fun!

Dave

**willjordan** · 12-21-2001, 12:41 PM

Thanks, Dave

Tony www.lathes.co.uk descibes the headstock as follows:
The Emco Maximat V10P 5" x 25" (127 mm x 650 mm) had a geared headstock and 8 spindle speeds from 60 to 2500 rpm. The headstock spindle, hardened and ground with a 20 mm bore and 3 Morse taper, had provision for L20 collets and ran in precision roller bearings.

So with a MT3, I can't use 5C's. BlueRidge mentions the existence of some remaining L20's; I've written for info.

What I'm really interested in is in the expanding inside collets for repeatable mounting for turning. I'm looking at doing some 6" locomotive drivers and later some car wheels. Probably I'd be better off building a custom arbour for each wheel and axle size.

But my dreams are runing faster than my tool availability. I just like to anticpate upcoming jobs.

I've got a lot to learn. I've got some easy projects planned for getting started and plan to make so chips as soon as I get set up so as to be able to get the feel of the tools.

And I've got these forums as a source of wisdom.

------------------
grace & peace
will

[This message has been edited by willjordan (edited 12-21-2001).]

**Thrud** · 12-22-2001, 03:12 AM

Will

If you get set up with 5C collets (Bison makes a beautiful precision 5C chuck (New England Brass sells them reasonably) a whole new world of workholding opens up for you. Just one of which is internal expanding collets.

Note also that Tony's measurement is for the British Centre Height which is 1/2 the US's commonly used "swing". In your case it is a 5" lathe in England, but a 10" lathe here.

I hope you have fun with your lathe, I sure like my Maximat7 - they are going to have to pry mine from my cold, dead fingers!

Best of the season, peace
Dave

Maximat V10

Maximat V10

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