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nick in carriage and thumb screw

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  • nick in carriage and thumb screw

    I have a nick where it must have hit by the tool rest. I am thinking that I can file it down at an angle so as not to hit the machined part. Is that the right way?



    also I am missing the thumb screw on the micrometer, is that a standard thread or try to get it from SB parts place?



    thanks.

  • #2
    brockley1

    Hi, its me back. the gouge in the compound should not cause a problem unless there is some metal pushed into the dovetail. You could gently file the dovetail with a three square (triangular) file. You could see if you can find an allen head capscrew to fit the compound dial. The compound never sits in shown position.It is usually set at 29 degrees toward the tailstock from where it is now for screwcutting . any other setting is for taper turning or reducing small dia incremints. If you wish you may email me at [email protected]
    The difficult done right away. the impossible takes a little time.

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    • #3
      thanks Ill send you an email.

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      • #4
        for new thumb screws i just matched up small allen head screws, they are already kinda knurled. 10-24 sounds familiar. . . saw off whatever length you don't need. . .

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        • #5
          Hmm looks like a 10" SouthBend? With a decent size chuck on there its very easy to accidently nick up your cross-slide. Its even easier to nick your compound with jaws, especially if you have the compound extended like its shown in the picture. I've done it myself once or twice but never with power-feed so i always heard a slight tinking noise and got things under-controll before any damage was done.

          Anyhow, it shouldn't cause any problems at all. Just make sure it doesn't hinder the movement of the compound. As far as the set screw, test the thread with a couple of bolts until you find the right one, then your first project can be to make yourself a little thumb screw. If it were me, i'd start with a pre-made hex head bolt to avoid cutting threads and then turn the head down to be round. Then knurl the round bit for some grip and ta-da!


          Oo - just read DavidH's reply - thats a good thought! Just get you a socket-head cap screw.

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          • #6
            It's a 50 year old lathe, prol'y older than You, Do You Got any nick's or screws missing?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by IOWOLF
              It's a 50 year old lathe, prol'y older than You, Do You Got any nick's or screws missing?
              quite right! actually the lathe is somewhere around a 1981, at least that is what I was told, and it was made in south korea, which kind of surprised me for a usa lathe, and I am older than that and past the 50 year mark too.

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              • #8
                That dial locking screw may be 10-28, in which case you'll need to make one.
                (The gib screws on my SB are 10-28; I don't know about the dial screws.)

                Update: I just checked. The dial screw is 10-32...at least mine is.
                Last edited by SGW; 02-13-2008, 08:29 PM.
                ----------
                Try to make a living, not a killing. -- Utah Phillips
                Don't believe everything you know. -- Bumper sticker
                Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
                There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
                Law of Logical Argument - Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
                Don't own anything you have to feed or paint. - Hood River Blackie

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                • #9
                  South Korea? I'd bet it's not 10-32.

                  It looks like 50's vintage USA.

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                  • #10
                    From the photos, it appears to be a South Bend. If it is the Light Ten previously discussed, it is made in USA.

                    At some point, South Bend had castings made in Korea and it is possible this lathe used these, but machining, fitting & assembly was done here.
                    Jim H.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by JCHannum
                      From the photos, it appears to be a South Bend. If it is the Light Ten previously discussed, it is made in USA.

                      At some point, South Bend had castings made in Korea and it is possible this lathe used these, but machining, fitting & assembly was done here.
                      That could be, its on the tailstock end, it might be just the casting part. I will post a pic of it.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by SGW
                        That dial locking screw may be 10-28, in which case you'll need to make one.
                        (The gib screws on my SB are 10-28; I don't know about the dial screws.)

                        Update: I just checked. The dial screw is 10-32...at least mine is.
                        thanks I will check that out. at this point making threads that small seems like a really hard thing to do.

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                        • #13
                          the compound is a little stiff when you screw it all the way in, there are set-screws on the side are they for adjusting the amount of play? Can I take the top part of the compound off and clean it, or is it better not to mess with it? thanks.

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                          • #14
                            To take the compound apart, you need to remove the dial assembly and handle. This isn't difficult, but you may want to wait until you get more comfortable with the machine before you try doing it. You can probably do about as well by loosening the gib screws -- you can even loosen them enough to slide the gib out, but keep track of which end is which for reassembly -- and applying oil, cranking it back and forth.

                            Or, if you're feeling brave, here's how you take off the handle. Set the compound about mid-way in its travel. At the bottom of the boss that has the dial reference line on top, there is a hole for a pin spanner (for lack of a better name). Or you might call it a hook spanner or a pin wrench. Assuming you have a suitable pin spanner, unscrew the dial assembly from the body of the compound. If you DON'T have a suitable pin spanner, you can achieve the same result with a close-fitting dowel pin in the hole, tapped with a brass punch or similar in the proper direction down close to where the pin goes into the hole.

                            BTW, the gib screws on the slides are for adjusting, yes. You want to adjust for free travel, minimal slop.
                            ----------
                            Try to make a living, not a killing. -- Utah Phillips
                            Don't believe everything you know. -- Bumper sticker
                            Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
                            There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
                            Law of Logical Argument - Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
                            Don't own anything you have to feed or paint. - Hood River Blackie

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                            • #15
                              thanks, I will start with just lossening the screws a bit and file the edge down, and then see what happens. You have given me the info now I have a reference.

                              also I emailed leblond for info on my lathe.

                              . Serial Number: 40160K
                              2. Catalog Number: CL370ZD
                              3. Size: 10"X3.5'
                              4. 1/2HP; 208V/3PH/60CY
                              5. 1725 RPM
                              6. Ship Date: October 8, 1982


                              thanks for all the help.

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