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Outboard woodturning on Logan 200

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  • Outboard woodturning on Logan 200

    The love of my life would like a large wooden salad owl. I was wondering if anyone has ever done outboard turning on a smaller metal lathe? I was thinking of running a shaft through the hollow spindle, but the two major limitations are----I only have a 3/4" hollow spindle, is this enough? Secondly the design of the Logan ( a 200 model with manual change gearing) requires that the faceplate must be 1.5" past the end of the headstock spindle to clear the gearcase door. My plan had been to mount my wood faceplate on the end of the through shaft, run the lathe in reverse so as not to unthread the face plate, and make a floorstand toolrest and set it up to do my cutting left of centre on the stock. I planned to cut the stock as close to balanced as posible before starting, but realize it will still be far from perfect for the initial turning. Anyone tried this, have any advice?

  • #2
    Just an idea.
    But if you took the gear off the spindle end, replaced it with a spacer the same diameter as the spacer that's between bearing and gear, install that with the lock nut.
    Then make up an adapter that would slip over the spacers, the center bolt would only be intension, all side load would be directly transmitted to the spindle

    Or get creative and build a 'block' at the foot to hold a couple bearings, then drive a shaft held in the chuck with a faceplate mounted on it hanging over the tailstock end of the bed. (old car axle almost seems tailor made for that, bearing and 'faceplate' already at the end just need a pocket for the bearing and something to bolt the retaining plate to)

    no 'mods' to the lathe, and no restriction on the size of the material you can use. Maybe drill and tap the end of the shaft so you can put a bolt through the spindle and lock it in position. Also, keeps all the wood chips away from the mechanism in the headstock.



    • #3

      Kendall that brilliant. If you get a half shaft from the junkers and can find one with a good bearing you are home free, just need to make a block to fit the ways and a hole for the bearing bored from the headstock. You will need to make a steady type lock and have it just snug. then you can "feed" it over the boring bar in the chuck by pushing the block with the carrage feed. That's how I bored my steady rest. Peter
      The difficult done right away. the impossible takes a little time.


      • #4
        Wooden Bowls

        If you make a 14" bowl the wood is going to be heavy. Try to band saw the blank as circular as possible to have balance. If you are using green wood try to do the wood removal all at one time to prevent splitting from drying too quickly. After roughing out the blank put it in a brown paper bag and staple it shut. Put it in a cool place to dry for about four months. Then take it out and do your finish cuts and sanding. On the floor stand tool rest be sure its heavy and won't move. Use long handle tools for control and grip one hand on the very end. Make all cuts down hill going from the faster moving surface to the slower moving surface. Use bowl gouges as much as possible. Be ready for a lot more shavings than you think you will get. Use a full face shield. If the wood is not a toxic variety use a dust mask. If toxic use a respirator. Any remaining green wood should have the end grain covered with latex paint to prevent splitting from rapid drying before using it again.
        When band sawing a three tooth per inch blade is best.
        Be careful that large a piece of wood has a lot of momentum. I think the easy part will be setting up the lathe to handle the wood turning.
        Thats about all I can think of.


        • #5
          Just for the hell of it why don't you try to make a 6" bowl first. You might find out you're getting into much more then you bargained for. Most of this stuff is done green and then stored in plastic bags with a couple of small holes poked in them to retard air movement and prevent them from cracking. I have an expanding chuck for my wood lathe that requires drilling a flat bottom 2" hole in the bottom of the stock. The chuck then grabs the side wall of the hole.
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          • #6
            I have made many bowls on my woodworking lathe never on an engineers lathe.I think this would be an uphill struggle to get anywhere near good results.I am afraid when it comes down to it the whole ethos around bowlturning is the feel for what your doing and you need to use your hands.Not impossible I know but blooming hard work get yourself a steady made to fit in the topslide fitting and then sure would work but otherwise this is not on just think when your turning brass how much easier it is to use a graver on rest thats what the professionals do.Good luck Alistair
            Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease