No announcement yet.

How do you separate the yoke from the spline on a Jeep driveshaft?

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • How do you separate the yoke from the spline on a Jeep driveshaft?

    A fellow brought in a driveshaft for the front of a Jeep to see if we could fix it. It looks like the third one down in this picture:

    The shaft is worn where the seal slides on the splined shaft. He wanted us to build it up with weld and turn it down to size. We can't get the yoke to come off the splined shaft.

    Any idea how it's put together and how to take it apart?

    Last edited by winchman; 04-03-2008, 01:57 AM.
    Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.

  • #2
    It's been a long time but have you tried to unscrew the collar with the grease fitting off? If I remember right, it should screw off and have some type of wiper seal under the collar? Once you unscrew it, it should pull off.
    "The men the American people admire most extravagantly are the greatest liars; the men they detest most violently are those who try to tell them the truth." H. L. Mencken

    "All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed, second it is violently opposed, and third, it is accepted as self-evident."

    "When fear rules, reason and logic are ruled out."


    • #3
      Yup, the collar unscrews, or in some cases, simply prys off, as sometimes they are just a pressed fit. After that, the yoke can still be very stuck on the splines if it hasn't been greased often. Does the yoke move freely, and just not come off? If so, removing the collar should be all you need, if not, you may have to take a BFH to the yoke to get it off. I typically use a air chisel with a hammer head I made for it...

      Make sure the customer has changed the seal/wiper in that collar, I would think it highly unlikely that the rubber seal has worn down a steal shaft. They were never meant to provide a seal against the elements, basically just a dust seal. That is why you have to grease the yoke with scheduled maintanence, to flush the crap out. I build and wheel 4x4's as a hobby, and don't even run the collar and seal, I just grease everything after every wheeling (mis)adventure.



      • #4
        The yoke slides OK on the splines, but it stops when the start of the splined portion is just visible outside the dust seal.

        We haven't tried unscrewing, prying, or BFHing the collar. Wanted to ask first to be sure it could be taken apart without ruining it completely.

        The seal is in such bad shape that all the grease just comes out that end instead of going down toward the splines and out the hole on the end toward the U-joint.

        We'll give it a try.
        Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.


        • #5
          If it is just like the ones pictured the cap is not threaded. The rubber in the cap is in a groove on the slip yoke. If the slip is not stuck on the stub shaft you should be able to put it in a vice and give a good yank and the rubber in seal will give enough to slide over splines. Maybe spray a little lube first if rubber is old and stiff.

          I'm assuming the complaint is with the yoke being loose on the splines and wobbling around causing vibration. If thats the case its not the smooth part of shaft that is problem it is the splines worn out. Most of these have a hard plastic covering the splines and it will wear or get old and brittle and crack. More than likely you will have to replace at the least the stub shaft. I usely replace both the stub and the slip yoke.

          Hope that helps Good luck


          • #6
            Drive shaft.

            Had a Jeep a few years back with one of those shafts. Rebbuilt it without the CV joint and that got rid of all the vibration. Don't know why it had a CV joint as that shaft ran just about parallel to the ground with little flex. I drove it for 2 years after redoing that shaft, sold the truck and the next owner ran it into the ground. (was a bit beat when I got it...)


            • #7
              I've taken a few like that apart. They have plastic molded into the inner splines near the top.
              Heat it up with a torch and melt the plastic. They are very hard to take apart if you don't do that.
              The seal will pop off but they are still tough.
              That is IF it is one of the plastic filled ones.
              I have tools I don't even know I own...


              • #8
                plastic retainer

                Russ has it right, Peter
                The difficult done right away. the impossible takes a little time.


                • #9
                  Winchman, My first guess would be if the seal is that worn out the splines are probably worse and that is why it does not come apart if you have unscrewed the seal nut. For that seal area to wear on the shaft the splines would be toasted to get enough rock over. If this is indeed a teflon lined spline shaft I would not burn the coating off. The size of the splines will be significantly smaller diameter. Coarse this is a guess as I have only rebuilt 4 or 5 hundred drivelines from class 8 trucks, no jeeps. Good luck, Jay
                  "Just build it and be done"


                  • #10

                    The collar unscrews and the yoke is designed to slide off the spline. The catch is, that once the spline is "notched" from wear, it don't come off so easy. The proper repair is to part the weld holding the spline and yoke to the shaft and replace it. When worn to this degree, the spline doesn't slide in use any better than it slides in your shop. This sledge hammers the drive train every time the vehicle hits a bump or rut and the spline can't privide the protection it's supposed to.
                    The "U" joints must be phased correctly at each end of the drive shaft when you're done, so take note and if necessary mark the tube and spline before you start. If it ends up out of phase, wear and vibration will result.