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Enco band saw

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  • Enco band saw

    My son and I went ahead and got the small saw during the 15% off sale. Set it up yesterday and checked it out. We tested it on 2x2x16ga square tube. One cut at 90deg and one cut at 45deg. The saw cut so close to true that we see no need to adjust it. It is, of course, cutting dry. We set it to run at its lowest speed and very little heat was felt at the cut or in the blade.
    I wonder if a little cutting oil brushed on during a cut would help or just mess things up?
    It seems to be an awfully nice machine for the money.

  • #2
    Cutting oil


    I had the same experience as you did.

    I have had my 6 x 4 band-saw for about 2 years and while I only use it occasionally, it does as well as you say. Consequently I leave the "adjustments" well alone unless or until it is really needed

    I have not had to adjust it - even a (very seldom) blade change - other thn blade tension.

    I had several cuts to do on 3" OD x 1/4" wall thickness cold drawn precision tube recently and while it was slow, it did everything and more than I could reasonably ask of it.

    I leave mine set on the lowest speed as time is not an issue with me.

    I just use a few drops of tapping oil on mine - just where the blade starts is cut.

    There have been several threads and many posts in the last 12 months on blade types/brand/pitches, coolant types and rates of feed, blade speeds, down-feed rates and methods as well as up-lift. Most were very informative.

    I hope that there is a lot of informed comment an advice on this topic/thread.


    • #3
      The oil won't hurt,but I wouldn't weld through it.I use water sol coolant mixed 50:1,not enough oil to interfere with welding just enough to prevent chip loading.

      Blades do last much longer with coolant.
      I just need one more tool,just one!


      • #4

        Thanks WS.

        I never even thought to consider welding - possibly because I don't have to weld my blades. I just toss them when they are too worn as they are not expensive. I use "Starrett" (USA) blades and they just keep going.

        It would be an entirely different story if I were in a commercial shop or where time or cost of blades is an issue.

        I use fine blades and low speed with tapping oil as said.

        I had considered making a tray for the saw and just moving the "suds" pump and hoses across from the mill. I guess I'd have to hang a bucket or similar off the ends of any long-ish tubing I was cutting though.

        As you say, coolant does extend the life of the blades and does assist both with chip clearance from the blade and work-pieces. So I might have to re-think/re-consider the "suds" issue.


        • #5
          Using oil

          WS. Were you talking about welding the cut material after cutting with oil or welding the blade after it breaks? I'm thinking the former rather than the latter.


          • #6

            Good question Jack.

            I never even considered it as I'd have thought it wasn't much of an issue.

            But after reading your question, I had to wonder that if it affected the welding of the blade then it might affect the welding of the job - or vice versa?

            I am looking forward to more info/posts on that subject.


            • #7
              It will have absolutely no effect on the blade weld.

              It could make your blade last longer, but one of the downsides is that the oil will make the blade stickier, and the chips from the cut might stick to it and damage the bandsaw wheels or jam up the works.

              The welding that WS was talking about was on the material you were cutting after you cut it. Any oil on the material will create imperfections while welding, so after cutting you will have to do a better job of weld prep on the metal that you cut.

              Bottom line: If you are cutting sections of tubing to weld, I don't think it really gives you much advantage to add oil to the cut, and makes weld prep more difficult. So I make all my cuts dry; I have cut 3x3 1/4" square tubing dry with no problems.


              • #8

                Those little chips will stick to the blade and be everywhere on your saw, coolant or not. And those little wire wheel cleaner thingies are junk IMO.

                What I do is build a an air blower on the backside of the guide to blow the chips and coolant off the blade and on to the chip-pan. It really helps to keep the swarf down to as little as possible, though it won't totally eliminate the need for cleaning.

                I've found that using a water soluble coolant at proper concentrations, seldom requires extra weld prep. Though a straight cutting oil could cause problems. Or if you need x-ray quality welds.

                If you think you understand what is going on, you haven't been paying attention.