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  • Another Noobee question

    Has anyone used a carbide tipped saw blade, the 3 1/2" or 4" variety, for slotting steel, aluminum, etc. on a mill?

    Is there a difference between the carbide on other tools and the material on a saw blade?

    Could such blades be used, for example, on a horizontal attachment for a Bridgeport?

    Obviously, these blades would need to be run at slow speeds, but would it work?

    Any thoughts or experiences?
    Vitَria, Brazil

  • #2
    This subject has been covered several times here, but I want to learn more about this too.

    I think I've seen pictures of a small 3 or 4 inch 40 tooth? carbide blade sloting some parts here. I think the speed was relatively high though I may be wrong. There was something about the making of an arbor for it too.

    Others will post here with directions to the existing archives ...I hope!

    P.S. I also saw a picture of a blade that jammed and got crumpled into pieces.
    John M...your (un)usual basement dweller

    Comment


    • #3
      Try it . What do you have to loose . Just a carbide blade . Try it in a piece of scrap aluminun. You may just learn something . If you don`t do it you want know.Dont let people tell you you can`t do something in a machine shop .You only learn by trying. JUST be Safe.
      Every Mans Work Is A Portrait of Him Self
      http://sites.google.com/site/machinistsite/TWO-BUDDIES
      http://s178.photobucket.com/user/lan...?sort=3&page=1

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by davidwdyer
        Has anyone used a carbide tipped saw blade, the 3 1/2" or 4" variety, for slotting steel, aluminum, etc. on a mill?
        Is there a difference between the carbide on other tools and the material on a saw blade?
        Could such blades be used, for example, on a horizontal attachment for a Bridgeport?
        Obviously, these blades would need to be run at slow speeds, but would it work?
        Any thoughts or experiences?
        I use slitting saw blades on my Bridgeport.
        I run the mill at 600-700 rpms with the blades held on an R8 arbor.
        I use HSS plain slitting saw blades of a diameter of 2½ diameter.
        I have 1/32, 1/16, and 1/8inch thick blades, having no set to the teeth.
        These blades go right through aluminum with no problem.
        The cost of these blades is $13.85 each.

        If you want to move up, you can get a HSS slitting saw w/ side chip clearance for only $45.05 each. (2½ inch diameter)
        If you want to move up again, you can a HSS staggered tooth saw for $60.65 each. This blade comes as a 3 inch as the smallest sold.

        You still want to upgrade all the way to carbide? No problem, you can get a 4 inch (smallest made) with carbide tipped teeth. All 6 of those teeth I might add. This baby will only cost you $131.15 each.

        Since my $13 HSS blades smoothly cut the aluminum, I have no need or desire to 'upgrade' thank you........pg

        Comment


        • #5
          You mean like this?





          Have a look over here, they seem to work pretty good:

          http://www.homemodelenginemachinist....hp?topic=166.0

          I think he said that was a $7.95 blade.

          Cheers,

          BW
          ---------------------------------------------------

          http://www.cnccookbook.com/index.htm
          Try G-Wizard Machinist's Calculator for free:
          http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCGWizard.html

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          • #6
            The price is certainly right. Also, I am in Brazil and it is easy to find small blades for wood, but complicated to find a real cutter for milling slots.

            Also, it seems that one would have to modify the center hole to fit on the shaft.

            I wonder what RPM he is running that blade at and whether it would work for steel?
            Vitَria, Brazil

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by BobWarfield
              You mean like this?





              Have a look over here, they seem to work pretty good:

              http://www.homemodelenginemachinist....hp?topic=166.0

              I think he said that was a $7.95 blade.

              Cheers,

              BW

              (groan) yet ANOTHER project! "Turn arbor for cutoff saw"!

              Get thee behind me Bob Warfield!!
              Len

              Comment


              • #8
                Also, it seems that one would have to modify the center hole to fit on the shaft.

                I wonder what RPM he is running that blade at and whether it would work for steel?
                davidwdyer,
                I am working on a Stuart triple compound. The cut You see in the picture is a piece from that set. I cut 1018, Brass, Alu, plastic and what ever comes in front of me. On the metal, (1018) I use about 850 to 1000 rpm on a Mini Mill.
                on Brass and Alu I go higher. You can feed kind of fast.
                The blade is around 0.055 thick. The cut comes out clean and some times you could use it as is. Since I know now how it cuts I set it 0.060 from what I need and take a 0.005 fly cut after. If you cut to slow a speed the blade will sort of clog and it sounds horrible. The chips get caught in the slot. So higher speed it is.
                The hole is 15 mm. I made s small insert to use the blade on a 0.5" arbor.
                All my metal gets cut with this thing. Will have to make smaller arbor so I get a deeper cut out of it.
                Hilmar

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