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  • ISO 30/INT 30 spindle

    For a manual mill spindle, are ISO 30 and INT 30 two different names for the same spindle?

    If not, where do I find the differences? My googling has not been productive on this question.

    If I just want to buy an ER40 collet holder, do any differences matter?

  • #2
    Any help?

    Hi Bob.

    Is this any help? I hope so.


    In my opinion all/both are the same.

    Perhaps wait an see other comments/advice/

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Bob,
      I went through this for months to determine if they were the same!
      They are, oldtiffie is right on!
      I bought a mill from KUNTH and I ordered a R8 spindle....got ISO 30!!!

      After much hunting I found that they are in fact the same>

      PaulF

      Comment


      • #4
        Its both inch and metric

        Hi Paul.

        Sorry I was a "bit late" but I did post this in the last couple of months.

        for Paul and Bob:
        if you "do the math" and divide all the dimensions by 25.4 you will get an "inch" result as the USA standard adopted world-wide was "hard converted" to metric.

        Comment


        • #5
          The tapers are all the same for CAT, NMTB, ISO, BT taper. What is different is how they are retained in the spindle. CAT, BT are intended to be held in with a pull stud and drawbar and the others use a threaded drawbar. But you really can use a threaded drawbar with all of them.

          I have gone with BT30 on my mill. Tooling is cheap on ebay. I got a bunch of ER16 holders, a few ER20s and about 7 ER-32 holders. Plus I also picked up integral drill chucks, DA Chucks, and weldon style tool holders.

          For new holders check out Mari Tool. He has good stuff. I bought a buch of collets from him.

          Comment


          • #6
            Bob,
            The tapers are all the same.
            What differs is the flange, driving slots, the small end and the drawbar.
            ISO 30 and INT 30 'should' be the same except for flange and drawbar but it depends how the seller describes them.

            BT30 and INT 30 have different flanges, drawbar threads and the BT doesn't have the small parallel part at the drawbar end requiring a longer drawbar, it's also metric.

            Without a tool changer and different draw bars they will all interchange except one and that is the QC30.

            The QC 30 is fitted to the BOSS series CNC machines and because it doesn't have a thru hole you can't use a drawbar.

            So for this machine it has a bayonet lock on the end of the spindle that requires a smaller and thicker flange making these special.

            .
            .

            Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by John Stevenson
              Bob,
              The tapers are all the same.
              ...............

              The QC 30 is fitted to the BOSS series CNC machines and because it doesn't have a thru hole you can't use a drawbar.

              So for this machine it has a bayonet lock on the end of the spindle that requires a smaller and thicker flange making these special.

              .
              .....though QC30 is perfectly useable in an ordinary INT/ISO 30 spindle, given the right drawbar.

              It may be an odd British quirk, but I've found secondhand INT30 stuff will all sorts of drawbar threads, including 3/8" Whit, 7/16" UNC as well as the common 1/2" UNC and M12. I've managed to 'convert' them all to M12, sometimes a little local annealing was needed.

              Tim

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              • #8
                Some BP Boss's have a through drawbar. A friend has one with NMTB spindle and power drawbar.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Using INT/BT 30 taper milling tooling



                  I have access to a Harrison Universal Milling M/C having ISO 30 spindle with an M12 drawbar. But the tooling that's available has a pull stud as used in CNC work.

                  I've used reasonable force to unscrew the pull studs without success and ask are they right or left handed? is it OK to warm up the taper end first?

                  I had thought of nipping the pull stud flats in plain vice jaws and using a 2ft flat bar to torque the drive end pads - but don't want to finish up with a sheared pull stud.

                  Any advice from the those who have been there before would be appreciated.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Right hand thread. They will come out, someone may have locktited them. Heating won't hurt them.

                    Maritool sells a socket that works better than a wrench. It also help to have one of those tightening fixtures to hold it in place.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I think that a chart showing what tooling will work with which spindles would be really useful. Most of the resources that are available cover only part of the picture, but John's summary above gets close. Ideally the chart should show what you need to do to use a particular type of tooling in a 'foreign' spindle. As an example, to use CAT 40 in an NMTB 40 spindle, you need to remove one drive tenon, remove any pull stud, and you may need an extended thread UNC drawbar to reach and fit the holder. To use BT40 in an NMTB40 spindle, remove any pull stud, use a metric drawbar with an extended threaded section.

                      In an ideal world we would all buy the tooling that is an exact match to our mill spindles. In the real world, I buy tooling that is cheap, in good condition that I can adapt, even if this means making and swapping drawbars occasionally.

                      I'm not volunteering to produce the chart!!
                      Bill

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I find Tim's point the most tricky. If something on one of the 30 tapers is offered for sale, it's the devil's own job to get the seller to tell you, with confidence, what the drawbar thread is.

                        My mill can't take more than 10mm for a drawbar, and while the horizontal drawbar pops out easily (if I don't break the shop window in the process), the vertical needs a collar to be unscrewed. So I really like to stick with one size, and 3/8th whit/BSW is what I stick with. Some are that, most aren't.

                        So try hard not to collect more than two different drawbar sizes, and know what they are and how to identify them in shops.

                        If you turn your own tapers up, you don't need any flanges - just 1/4 of flat in case you need to do any persuasion.
                        Richard - SW London, UK, EU.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by willmac
                          I think that a chart showing what tooling will work with which spindles would be really useful. Most of the resources that are available cover only part of the picture, but John's summary above gets close. Ideally the chart should show what you need to do to use a particular type of tooling in a 'foreign' spindle. As an example, to use CAT 40 in an NMTB 40 spindle, you need to remove one drive tenon, remove any pull stud, and you may need an extended thread UNC drawbar to reach and fit the holder. To use BT40 in an NMTB40 spindle, remove any pull stud, use a metric drawbar with an extended threaded section.

                          In an ideal world we would all buy the tooling that is an exact match to our mill spindles. In the real world, I buy tooling that is cheap, in good condition that I can adapt, even if this means making and swapping drawbars occasionally.

                          I'm not volunteering to produce the chart!!
                          I have several of each CAT ,NMTB, and ISO , as mentioned above one drive tenon needs to be removed and I made a smaller one to allow the different types to be used It is easy to make a tenon just square up a piece of key stock and drill a suitable hole in the center ,counterbore for the hex keyed screw and away you go tooling change take about three minutes between series and I have four drawbars to suit the different threads and lengths , dont want to risk a tool holder dropping out during a cut ,bit messy .

                          Michael

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by macona
                            Some BP Boss's have a through drawbar. A friend has one with NMTB spindle and power drawbar.
                            I was referring to the fixed head Boss's and not the Friday afternoon conversion of the nod and tilt manual head
                            .

                            Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yes, and I still have seen a Boss with a 30 taper and drawbar.

                              Comment

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