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  • Broke into the 50's (50.3 MPG)

    The verdict is in, I went 255 miles on 5 gallons of gas, taking into account my odometer error (which was ever so slightly in my favor) I have by far set a new record for my car, Most of it was due to drastically changing the way I drove, but some was all the new things I just got done doing, My Progressive rate throttle design could not have turned out any better, it makes throttle feathering a Joy rather than a chore, still had to pay attention and focus but no where near as much as with the stock unit, The slight increase in tire pressure (over stock recommendations) The 0W30 syn. mobile 1 engine oil, the mobile 1 syn. trans lube (big difference just in shifting) all have contributed to this achievement --- thing is is about 15% of the 250 was city driving, and also about 15% was high speed ( 70/75mph --- too high for economy) But my car just glides down the road now, its about as friction free as I will be able to get it.
    The rest was close to speed limits or 5 below where I was alone on the roads and wouldnt hold up traffic, take off was very slow and programmed, low shift points and very little throttle, stop lights were anticipated as best as possible and stop signs were also --- some coasting in area's that would permit, generally gave up about 5mph on most hills and would coast on negative if the grade permitted and speed was appropriate enough to not hold up traffic, thing im starting to notice out there is you really got to be a slug out there to hold up traffic as many others are starting to slow down or at least are more welcoming to the idea.
    Told the brother with the HF (high fuel) CRX that im after him (he's rated 56mpg --- My tercel is only rated 33) His best tank is 57.4,
    I dont have an air flow meter that I can trick out, but I do have a mapp sensor and a throttle position potentiometer Time to break out the exhaust pyrometer --- Fuels expensive, Although I dont plan on burning one up Pistons are cheap and can be replaced in a half day --- he's going down.

  • #2
    That's really good! Driving style makes a huge difference, as does speed.

    I think you're right that people are beginning to slow down.
    ----------
    Try to make a living, not a killing. -- Utah Phillips
    Don't believe everything you know. -- Bumper sticker
    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
    There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
    Law of Logical Argument - Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
    Don't own anything you have to feed or paint. - Hood River Blackie

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    • #3
      I'm inspired to try something to improve the meager 24 mpg I get with my AWD Forester. I only need FWD. I've thought about removing the driveshaft and the rear drive axles, though I doubt if this is feasible.
      Allan Ostling

      Phoenix, Arizona

      Comment


      • #4
        My LPG car usually does 31 mpg on a long run

        I swapped the panel air filter for a k & n type one ...and i now get 27 mpg


        my car is fuel injection ...and i don't completely understand how this works

        if it was a carbed car the less restriction of the air filter would have made the fuel consumption less ...
        if this new fangled computer controlled fuel injection system ...makes that miss-judged adjustment to mpg with this new filter ...can it be assumed that restricting the filter more would increase my mpg ...eg putting some more oil on it ...the filter was new dry and un-oiled when i got it ...well just the makers primed oil on it ...not much.

        all the best..markj

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        • #5
          Thanks SGW, My bro was running premium too, and he was also on a long flat trip, I had to stay semi local and theres a price to pay for all the ups and downs plus I burnt the cheap stuff...

          Aostling, weve talked about your surbaru on here before -- Yes you could see some improvement by yanking the rear axles out and the propeller shaft, But I think they may have a slide in yoke with the prop shaft and if so you would either need to leave it in or come up with a way of keeping the end piece in as without it you will immediately lose all your fluid, You cannot just separate the joints either as they are "permanent"
          Subarus are not a great car to try and achieve great results in, If its a manual trans it means you have a viscous coupling inside the transaxle, this is always fighting itself as its designed to handle the deviation between the front and rear diffs, so even going down the highway it can be a hinderance due to deviations caused by loads/more weight on front/tire pressures ect.ect.
          The automatics are electronically controlled and I believe dont use the viscous, but they have their own set of problems when it comes to efficiencies, Even If you yank everything out of the back your still at a disadvantage in a subaru simply for the fact of the ring and pinon layout, its 90 degree's and therefore is already starting at a disadvantage as compared to the typical Front wheel drive car, Still, your biggest problem by far is subies all time 4wd, I can see why youd want to get rid of it living where you live, perhaps you could hit a salvage yard, get the prop nose off of a beater and design a way of anchoring it on the trans splines so you could leave the entire prop. (drive) shaft off and then yank your axles (I think they just unbolt) ------If this was done and you had a manual trans I would expect to see a couple/3 mpg improvement on the highway...

          Comment


          • #6
            Aboard, Was the K&N designed specifically for your car? Does it have the same amount of surface area as your old filter? Iv seen many that were actually more restrictive, Also, do you have an ambient temp sensor? did the K&N change the relationship of incoming air (perhaps different plumbing or voiding the pre-heat?)

            I havent bought a new air filter in years -- just keep backflushing my old one with compressed air (must be working!)

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            • #7
              Ahaa

              Aostling, If your serious -- instead of incorporating the stock part to seal against the stock seal here's a thought, remove the seal entirely, machine a cupped aluminum piece that excepts an O-ring and slide it in the end of the trans ------ done deal - dead end, Make two O-D's, one for the O-ring and one to mimmick the inside trans bearing I-D (get measurement off prop shaft)
              This is just in case the internal plain bearing has a feeder hole (automatic trans?) In which case you want to put a wall against so you dont run low pressures and starve other parts, just leave plenty of I-D room on the plug for the trans splines that need to work freely. You would still need a fail safe to retain the plug, but much less complex than trying to anchor the rotating endpiece.

              Comment


              • #8
                Congratulations on your achievement. We should all work on mileage. Real improvements, not smoke and mirrors stuff.

                Your comments about anticipating traffic lights bring up a point I have thought about for a long time. How often do we sit at a traffic light waiting for it to change when there is absolutely no reason for sitting there. No cross traffic. None even in sight. And just as the STUPID light changes, several cars appear in the cross lanes and have to also stop and wait. Isn't it about time that we insist that our city, county, and state governments start using some intelligence in setting up the traffic signals.
                Paul A.
                SE Texas

                Make it fit.
                You can't win and there IS a penalty for trying!

                Comment


                • #9
                  AK, your comment on people driving slower or tolerating slower driving to time lights hit home with me.

                  I recently bought a Suzuki Samurai "jeep" big tires (for a Samurai anyway) and VERY underpowered. Last week I was driving thinking the Samurai had more power but I think it's people finally slowing down a little.

                  You variable throttle thread had a comment about cycling and driving habits. I bike about 100 miles a week and these hit home too. Not flooring up a hill and saving some for the downhill just like cycling helps mileage alot.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by aostling
                    I'm inspired to try something to improve the meager 24 mpg I get with my AWD Forester. I only need FWD. I've thought about removing the driveshaft and the rear drive axles, though I doubt if this is feasible.
                    You've got a center differential so this won't work.

                    (edit) Let me rant a bit about full time 4wd/awd vehicles. Even here in New England the real need for awd/4wd is perhaps 3-4 days a year. My old VW, fwd, with a set of snow tires goes OK in most any amount of snow, and I can put the snow tires away when I don't need them. The snow tires and extra wheels cost all of $500 a couple years ago. It seems that most every car maker offers awd vehicles now, with every Subaru and Audi having awd. Ford, Mercedes, Chrysler, and the rest have models with available awd. 100% of the time awd adds weight and reduces economy - it's hard to determine now much - and also increases initial purchase price. But it sells well! And the first cars off the road in a snowstorm around here are the awd ones, as awd only helps acceleration and not braking or turning!
                    --
                    Aaron
                    Last edited by fasto; 05-24-2008, 01:50 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by A.K. Boomer
                      My Progressive rate throttle design could not have turned out any better, it makes throttle feathering a Joy rather than a chore, still had to pay attention and focus but no where near as much as with the stock unit
                      That's called "Tip In". On cars with low power engines the manufacturer usually sets up a very fast "tip in" so that the car feels like it has more power. On serious off-roaders - XJ Cherokees and such - the "tip in" is very gradual so that you can easily inch the thing along without fear of spinning the tires. Some vehicles, Land Rover I think, that have electronic throttles have driver-adjustable "tip in".

                      My car is a 15-year old VW complete with ~200k miles, 2.8L engine, and 5-spd trans. VW give a range of tire pressures and let the driver sort it out. I find that keeping the tires at the max recommended pressure which is 44/40 gives noticably more MPG's. The low end pressure is 35/30.

                      I recently did a ~700 mile round trip and averaged 32.1 MPG highway being reasonably careful with speeds and such. The average speed recorded by the trip computer was 63 MPH. The car is rated at 24/28 MPG but I installed a lower ratio final drive a few years ago to drop engine RPM's on the highway. I always use full throttle acceleration when merging and such on the highway on the theory that the fuel usage is high but the duration is very short and I'm less likely to get pasted by someone driving an 8,000 lb suv.

                      The key to improving nationwide mileage in the US is to minimize vehicles idling and not moving where they get 0 MPG. This is the real advantage of a hybrid that can shut down the IC engine but few do this.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by A.K. Boomer
                        Aboard, Was the K&N designed specifically for your car? Does it have the same amount of surface area as your old filter? Iv seen many that were actually more restrictive, Also, do you have an ambient temp sensor? did the K&N change the relationship of incoming air (perhaps different plumbing or voiding the pre-heat?)

                        I havent bought a new air filter in years -- just keep backflushing my old one with compressed air (must be working!)
                        it wasn't a k & n it was a "green" air filter ..these are supposed to be as good as or Superior to k & n ..

                        http://www.greenfilters.co.uk/index.html

                        US SITE


                        http://www.greenfilterusa.com/

                        it was designed as a direct replacement for the stock filter ..and is the same size and fitment as old.

                        all the engine has is a manifold air temp sensor ...mapp sensor pipe going to the ecu and throttle position sensor and stepper motor thing on throttle ..thats it ...other than the usual 02 sensor .......coolent temp sensor , knock sensor and vacuum operated fuel pressure regulator..

                        LPG injection piggy backs off the standard fuel injection ...with lots of adjustment possible either way ..via laptop .

                        i know what you're going to say .get your laptop out ...


                        that's not easy ..requires two people .one to drive and one to adjust on laptop .,cant find any one to drive ..so i have to ...and the only person i can find to use the lap top is too stupid to understand how to adjust it .

                        All the best......markj
                        Last edited by aboard_epsilon; 05-24-2008, 01:58 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by hitnmiss
                          I recently bought a Suzuki Samurai "jeep" big tires (for a Samurai anyway) and VERY underpowered. Last week I was driving thinking the Samurai had more power but I think it's people finally slowing down a little.
                          Heavens! I had one of these which I bought new in 1988 just after the flip over scare. $6100 for a 1988.5 model, red with a white top. Every other color was $6000 even. Sticker price on mine was $9000.

                          1.3L 63 HP engine with the aerodynamics of an outhouse. Low gearing - mine was a 5-speed - and I could outrace anything up to about 30 MPH. Max highway speed was around 85 MPH on flat ground and 60 MPH up steep hills. At 85 MPH mine was turning 8300 RPM in 5th gear. In 4wd high range top speed was around 50 MPH on flat ground.

                          We passed this car down to each new driver for years. I don't believe that we ever did any significant maintenance. My brother hit a firetruck (!) with it knocking the mirror off the pass side door and I got rear ended in front of the police station in Worcester MA (easily fixed). Eventually my dad's 2nd wife ended up with it, and then it was stolen and vanished.

                          Change the spark plugs frequently for best performance.
                          --
                          Aaron

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Paul Alciatore
                            Congratulations on your achievement. We should all work on mileage. Real improvements, not smoke and mirrors stuff.

                            Your comments about anticipating traffic lights bring up a point I have thought about for a long time. How often do we sit at a traffic light waiting for it to change when there is absolutely no reason for sitting there. No cross traffic. None even in sight. And just as the STUPID light changes, several cars appear in the cross lanes and have to also stop and wait. Isn't it about time that we insist that our city, county, and state governments start using some intelligence in setting up the traffic signals.

                            Thanks Paul, I really never thought Id get this far with it without any engine modifications, now its time to take it into that arena --- not going to go crazy --- I did burn a hole in a saab piston when I was a teen.

                            I hear you on the traffic lights, The larger cities in my area seem to do much better for the most part, Mine in my little town suck --- there could be better planning and less waste, there could also be more load sensors installed at traffic lights, sometimes i see them and they still dont seem to be working (maybe my cars to light to set them off)
                            If you pull up to a light and see that the pavement has cuts all around it that means its a load sensing light, If no traffic goes over it the light quickly changes back to let the other direction go,
                            If im incorrect on this someone please let me know, its just observations on my own as I wondered what was triggering lights at different intervals and noticed anytime this happened I seen cuts in the pavement where vehicles stop, I believe that stopping on one of these sections will trigger the light to change over in your favor if the light has been green for the other direction for awhile.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by aboard_epsilon
                              all the engine has is a manifold air temp sensor ...mapp sensor pipe going to the ecu and throttle position sensor and stepper motor thing on throttle ..thats it ...other than the usual 02 sensor .......coolent temp sensor , knock sensor and vacuum operated fuel pressure regulator..



                              All the best......markj


                              Mark, The only real potential that youv changed is the breathability of the engine --- there is one connection and it works in the way that could actually make your engine use more fuel (instead of less --- like a carburated engine usually would) The connection is your Mapp sensor, the mapp sensor keeps tabs on intake manifold vacuum/pressure --- when you introduce an airfiltration system that flows better it can actually have an adverse effect when dealing with certain systems -- in all actuality it can mimmick a lower vacuum situation and lead the computer to believe that its kinda like a throttle plate being cracked open more than what it really is ----------- this will not effect economy in a low demand mode very much at all ( because even a poor filtration device will flow OK down low therefore your mapp sensor will experience same old same old) but if you use much of your engines displacement capacity it can effect things greatly, The TPS is there to keep things real but its ultimate influence is compromised by the mapp sensor.
                              Just something to think about.
                              Last edited by A.K. Boomer; 05-24-2008, 02:33 PM.

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