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Chinese Nuts

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  • Chinese Nuts

    So, I am building the ultimate stand for my Sq. Column Mill/Drill and I decided to weld nuts on to the bottom of the leg with leveling mounts. I was really happy when the mounts came with big nuts, about an inch across. I thought perfect these things will be easy to weld to the metal feet and then I can screw the feet into them and level the table and the mill that way.

    So, I weld the first one on and screw the threaded rod into the newly attached nut. The rod is at a twenty degree angle.

    I am new to welding so I am trying to figure out what I did wrong ?
    I won't go through the laundry list of things I came up with. Anyway, after a week of pondering I decide to break/grind the nut off and try again.

    I get the nut off clean it up and screw the rod through it to test the thread.
    Yep, the thread was cut so poorly the rod is sitting at a 20 degree angle. Duh ! So much for quality control !


  • #2
    I use coupling nuts for levelers. On most legs(flat, channel, angle), they can be fastened with U bolts. I first put the coupling nut in the lathe and turn a notch or two for the U bolt to sit in so it will not slide up/down. I would assume they could also be welded in place if you want.
    Paul A.
    SE Texas

    Make it fit.
    You can't win and there is a penalty for trying!


    • #3
      I have not come across any that are perpendicular to the face, dosn't seem to matter who makes them. Out of necessity I will use nuts similar to your application as I don't have the tooling to cut larger internal threads. I get by this by turning a male thread with a shoulder on the head stock side with what ever I have lying around, cut the threads about .100" less than the thickness of the nut and the balance about .020" less than the minor Dia. of the thread. I run the nuts on this threaded mandrel to face them off perpendicular or to turn them round leaving a shoulder for a press fit in a larger hole. I usually leave enough length on the mandrel so it can be supported in the tail stock especially if I'm turning the OD of the nut. Seems to work OK for me and if I need to weld them inplace I just turn a bevel.
      Cheers, Bob


      • #4
        We could put the nuts in a vice and crank closed till the Chinaman can screw straight threads.

        Just a thought.


        • #5
          Make your own weld nuts machinist

          Ater selling tons of bolts and prolly turning just as many if not more it;s amazing just how many birth defects can be found in fastners from all corners of the globe.
          I just need one more tool,just one!


          • #6
            When I'm welding nuts on I just fix with a small tack weld, put a bolt in, tap it around with a hammer until its in alignment, run the bolt out until the end is flush with the top of the nut (to stop splatter getting into the nut thread) and then finish weld. works fine in most applications that I use. Having a mig makes it a bit easier but even with a stick its pretty easy.
            On the subject of migs, for those who might not have heard of this, A mig is great for filling holes in plate etc. Clamp a bit of non ferrous like copper, brass, alloy etc, (the thicker the better) on the back of the hole (obviously this only works if you can get to the back of the hole) then start filling the hole with weld, starting from the edges working your way in. Once its filled and cooled, unclamp the backing piece and knock it off. if you have done it properly the back will be nice and flat and you only have to dress up the front.




            • #7
              Plug/slot weld

              That is called plug or slot weld(ing).

              It works very well in lots of applications for joining and filling. Non-ferrous inclusions can be a problem in critical joins.

              It is used extensively in lattice masts on navy ships (Destroyers and the like) where successively smaller tubes are welded into the ends of larger ones. There are many variations on that theme.





              • #8
                Weld the Nut and Rod in Place

                To make adjustments on a four footed stand, all four adjusting screws do not have to move. Only three that will move will do the leveling. Just weld solid the one that is 20 degrees off and make sure the other three are true and run free before you weld them. With three moving leg adjusting screw you can perfectly level your table. To make it easy, make sure the solid one is in the place that will be hardest to reach as it does not need to be moved.


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