Anyone recognize this Craftsman ac/dc buzzbox?

[gellfex]

Anyone recognize the model of this Sears Craftsman welder, and do you think it's worth $100 without ground and stinger cables? I want it for my Readywelder MIG spool gun that I've been running off of deep cycle batteries. Most of my welding is 1/8 thick and under steel, 3xx SS & AL.

Any answers to a few more questions would be appreciated:
Do I assume that lever on top controls the amps? How many 220v amps does this thing pull? Since the seller has no cables, I can't ask for a demo. what's the likelihood it's a pig in a poke?

Thanks

[CCWKen]

That looks like a newer model than the 250A-AC Craftsman I have. I bought it new around 1985 and it has a lockable horizontal adjuster on top. I've always run mine on a 50A circuit and have never popped a breaker even at the full 250A on 1/2" and 3/4" plate. If the DC works, the diodes alone are probably worth the $100.

[Reed]

I have one of these. Bought it in the early 80s (i think), burned at about 8, 50 pound boxes of 1/8 7018 in the first few years. I've since purchased a Dynasty 200DX, but can not seem to get rid of the Sears AC-DC box.

I'm a bit biased, but if it works 100 might be ok. I don't think I'd pay any more. :-)

[gellfex]

Do you guys know any way I can test it with a multimeter, since it has no leads? I don't even know if he has a 220 outlet for it available.

Cables & clamps for this would run almost $60! A new Hobart from Northern for $420 shipped starts to look good if I want to do stick in addition to the spool gun.

[Bob Ford]

Put the leads from a ohm meter one in each D C cable socket. If the diodes are good you will get a reading. Switch the ohm meter leads and you will get no reading. Diodes allow current to flow in only one direction.

Bob

[gellfex]

Put the leads from a ohm meter one in each D C cable socket. If the diodes are good you will get a reading. Switch the ohm meter leads and you will get no reading. Diodes allow current to flow in only one direction.

Bob

I guess I don't understand the circuitry, my electronics is pretty rudimentary. Why the diodes would be shorting the poles of the output, wouldn't they be in line on the circuit, leaving a half phase? Or is there simply a leg of transformer between those output poles, so that all that is between them is lots of wire and the diodes? Is there a bridge rectifier in these things?

[camdigger]

If there is no power available, there are some multi meter tests that could give you some clues, as previously described, the output terminals should give a reading with the leads on the output terminals on one polalrity, but not the other - but this must be done without power as the multimeter is actually measuring a current put put by it's internal battery. trying this check under power may let the magic smoke out of your meter. Similarly, an Ohm check across the inpouts should give a low ohm readings to eliminate the possibility of an open on the input tranformer coil.
If 220 power is available, the output terminals should show a DC voltage across them - about 25 - 30 volts, IIRC. As far as breakers, I think you need a 50 amp minimum and I think about 65 is recommended for a similar ad/dc welder.
AFAIK, 100 $ without leads is the most I would pay for this machine unless it has an internal cooling fan. Internal cooling fans add longevity and value to the unit, IMHO.
Cam

[gellfex]

It sounds like if I can't power it up, to risk no more than $50 or so.

Damn, at todays copper prices, the 35' of #6-3 armored cable I'll need to wire this will set me back as much as the welder!

If there is no power available, there are some multi meter tests that could give you some clues, as previously described, the output terminals should give a reading with the leads on the output terminals on one polalrity, but not the other - but this must be done without power as the multimeter is actually measuring a current put put by it's internal battery. trying this check under power may let the magic smoke out of your meter. Similarly, an Ohm check across the inpouts should give a low ohm readings to eliminate the possibility of an open on the input tranformer coil.
If 220 power is available, the output terminals should show a DC voltage across them - about 25 - 30 volts, IIRC. As far as breakers, I think you need a 50 amp minimum and I think about 65 is recommended for a similar ad/dc welder.
AFAIK, 100 $ without leads is the most I would pay for this machine unless it has an internal cooling fan. Internal cooling fans add longevity and value to the unit, IMHO.
Cam