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Mounting an Air Compressor

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  • lazlo
    replied
    Originally posted by wtrueman
    Hi all: Before you place the compressor in its resting place, consider removing the pet-cock at the bottom of the tank and run a length of air hose to a position suitable for you to bleed off the condensate easily.
    Yep, that's basically what I described here:

    Originally posted by Lazlo
    I plumbed a kick lever with a ball valve on the bottom of the tank, and the 2x4's are so I can purge the tank with flick of my toe
    I added a ball valve with a long lever (kick plate) to the bottom of the tank with a section of pipe that directs the water to the door of the garage.
    The only thing I need to add is one of those bronze silencers. 120 PSI is friggin' loud coming directly out of the tank. Scares the Hell out of my kids

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  • lazlo
    replied
    Originally posted by Bill Pace
    So, -- do you have much of a problem with condensation -- when you do a drain, do you get much, do need to do a drain often?
    No problems with condensation Bill -- the system works great. But when I'm painting I still use an air separator, and it still removes water. No matter how much you do passively, you'll only get ~ 75% of the water out of the system. That's fine for air tools, but for painting, and maybe plasma, good plumbing is not enough.

    I didn't do anything clever, I just followed Devilbiss' airline plumbing recommendations:
    • 3/4" pipe for up to 20 CFM
    • Slope the pipe back to the compressor 4" per 50 ft
    • First air drop should be at least 25 feet from the compressor

    http://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com...c/hosefits.pdf


    My "shop" is tucked into 1/2 of my 2-car garage, so I didn't have the wall space for 25 feet before the first air drop. So I folded-up the 25 feet like an accordion.
    I built that system in 2005, when copper was reasonably priced. It's crazy expensive now -- I wish I had added more drops when I had the chance

    Lane and I (and Henry) have (gasp!) plastic pipe extensively plumbed from the compressor mounted outside on through our shops, with drops and runs going every which way .... could this possibly have an effect on the forming of condensation?
    The only thing that really matters is that you have enough pipe run to give the air time to cool off and condense the water out. Copper will cool the air down faster (in theory), but you've probably got much longer runs than I do.
    Last edited by lazlo; 06-25-2008, 12:36 PM.

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  • wtrueman
    replied
    air compressor blow-off

    Hi all: Before you place the compressor in its resting place, consider removing the pet-cock at the bottom of the tank and run a length of air hose to a position suitable for you to bleed off the condensate easily. I've done this at work and at my shop. This means it gets bled a heck of a lot more often than when I had to get down on the floor and do it. Wayne.

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  • Dragons_fire
    replied
    Originally posted by oldtiffie
    It may well be that your compressor capacity (free air delivery) is inadequate. You can do better quite often with a larger receiver. The whole system from compressor to tool/s needs to be assessed. The regulator/s may well be part of the problem but not be all or most of it.

    I'd be careful of that compressor tank pressure at 150 psi as it seems a bit on the high side to me.

    I'd be careful of the probably single-phase motor driving it as well.

    Most "domestic/portable" (small-ish) ones here in OZ are limited to 7 bar
    those 2 regulators are on the new 60-gal compressor.

    im not sure if i explained it right before, but whats happening, is if i have a setup that goes from the tank - regulator - 25ft hose with a blow gun on the end, i should be able to regulate it down to 20psi. then i should only get 20 psi at the gun no matter what... right?? if i have a gauge at the gun, it will go up to 150psi (approximately, its probably more like 145) and then when i pull the trigger, i get a burst of 150psi, and then it goes back down to 20psi. if i let go of the trigger, the hose will go back to 150psi in about 30 seconds. then i get a burst when i pull the trigger again.

    mostly i use stuff like air ratchets and an air sander. so a little blast of higher pressure shouldn't affect too much, but im worries that while the tool is not in use, the valve in the tool is holding the higher pressure. i also would like to us it for painting sometime soon, and i think it would need to be more accurate than that for painting. ..

    thanks guys...

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  • Bill Pace
    replied
    Laz,
    So, -- do you have much of a problem with condensation -- I would assume NOT out at the exit points, with that much effort to prevent it! -- but, when you do a drain, do you get much, do need to do a drain often?

    Your part of the world and mine should be pretty similar in the temp/hum ranges and, as I mentioned earlier, and Lane says, we just dont have a problem with it.

    Since you've shown your piping set-up, a curious thought comes to mind.... (pause here to let the flame police not read any further)--- Lane and I (and Henry) have (gasp!) plastic pipe extensively plumbed from the compressor mounted outside on through our shops, with drops and runs going every which way .... could this possibly have an effect on the forming of condensation?

    Anybody heard/know of any thing about this possibly being a factor?

    Tho, even here, there is a disparity.... My shop is the largest at 28x32 with by far the most plumbing (I like an air source everywhere!), then Henrys at 24x24? (not sure) with less plumbing and then Lanes little "closet" shop with the least plumbing. But, even Lanes has probably got over a hundred feet...

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  • JeffKranz
    replied
    Mine had been sitting on the pallet sitting on an old rubber tire for the past 9 years. The rubber absorbs the vibration.

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  • oldtiffie
    replied
    Pressure drop

    Originally posted by Dragons_fire
    my old mini 8-gallon compressor used to sit in the corner of the garage on the pallet that my mill/drill came on!!

    i think if i dont mount it to the floor, and i take it off the pallet, it would tip over, so im gonna try leaving it on there. tomorrow morning i might try throwing a rubber mat under the pallet just to reduce a little noise...

    i also need to see if i can take the regulators back tomorrow morning... i picked up 2 for $12 each, but if i use an air ratchet (as an example) that i want to regulate to 90psi, when the tool is running, the gauge says 90, but when i stop it slowly builds up to 150psi, and the when i use the ratchet again, it has a 150psi burst at the beginning and then goes back down to 90psi. they siad they operate up to 160psi, but it alsmost seems like there is a little bypass that eventually pressurizes the hose to 150... i want to use it for some spray guns and other stuff that needs to be regualted a little more accurately...
    Thanks df.

    What you have is a case of "pressure drop" that occurs whenever air (gas), water (fluid) or electricity (??) "flows" from one point to another. Without that "pressure drop" (differential) there will be no "current". In the static state no flow/current will occur. This pressure differential may probably be due - at least in part - to the "draw-down" (usage rate) of the tool being in excess of the compressor, regulator, hose (size and length), fittings, orifices etc. all causing an individual "pressure" (and "flow") "drops/losses" which are additive. It may well be that your compressor capacity (free air delivery) is inadequate. You can do better quite often with a larger receiver. The whole system from compressor to tool/s needs to be assessed. The regulator/s may well be part of the problem but not be all or most of it.

    I'd be careful of that compressor tank pressure at 150 psi as it seems a bit on the high side to me.

    I'd be careful of the probably single-phase motor driving it as well.

    Most "domestic/portable" (small-ish) ones here in OZ are limited to 7 bar (105psi). I have a higher pressure one that is 10 bar (145psi) - as rated and as made, tested and certified.

    Many "cheap" regulators are limited to 7 bar, have high pressure drops and low flow rates.

    Good regulators for my compressor are lots more expensive than the "cheapies".

    Leave a comment:


  • lazlo
    replied
    Originally posted by Dragons_fire
    hey Lazlo, shouldnt you have some kind of drain at the bottom of each of those pipes so you can drain the moisture out after??
    Yep, there is. Look at the left elbow junction on the bottom of each section. There's a 90 degree bronze fitting with a purge valve on each one.
    The condenser coil is upside down on the first picture on the left -- you can see the purge valves there.

    To be honest, I rarely bother purging at that part of the airline. There's a water trap on the adjoining wall about 8 feet away, and that's where most of the condensate is trapped.

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  • Dragons_fire
    replied
    hey Lazlo, shouldnt you have some kind of drain at the bottom of each of those pipes so you can drain the moisture out after??

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  • lazlo
    replied
    Originally posted by tattoomike68
    oldtiffie has been here posting 1,000's of Wiki links and this dumb software says post=1

    WTF?
    Someone asked Tiffie that before, and apparently he asks Neil (or George, now) to reset his post count from time to time. I have no idea why.

    Leave a comment:


  • lazlo
    replied
    Originally posted by bhjones
    Sorry for the drift in topic, but Bill should be the man to ask about dealing with condensing water in the air system since he's from a humid area.

    How do you deal with it Bill?
    I'm not Bill , but I'm in Austin, which is humid as Hell (and hotter than... ! ), and this is how I keep water out of the air lines:



    Mine's a 3 HP (8 HP "peak" BS) 220V Ingersoll. It's propped-up on 2x4's on top of rubber plumbing pads on a plywood square. The rubber keeps the vibration down. I plumbed a kick lever with a ball valve on the bottom of the tank, and the 2x4's are so I can purge the tank with flick of my toe
    Last edited by lazlo; 06-25-2008, 02:04 AM.

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  • oldtiffie
    replied
    Its "Booming"

    And which one is you Boomer? - you wish.

    I can assure you that I'm not there - though I cried a bit (a lot actually) when I saw that link.

    That will be your eternal punishment if you don't behave - some hope. So get on and don't stop doing your penance (as per your link) until you are told to stop!!!

    But on the other hand, it is nice to see a man happy in his work. Looks like the wages (of sin??) aren't too bad either.

    Note the multi-skilling and multi-tasking - just what is needed in this corporatised world.

    Beats the hell out of running around in circles.

    A case of "what goes around comes around" I suppose.

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  • Dragons_fire
    replied
    Originally posted by oldtiffie
    theres a perfect reason for having a compressor!!!! This is so off topic its funny!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • A.K. Boomer
    replied
    Now ya did it Tiffer, this is what i get for going to your wiki site?


    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...-LeKayRing.jpg

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by oldtiffie
    Boomer,

    in your concern (lust?) for that air job (compressor?) perhaps this is what you had in mind.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blow_up_doll

    But what ever you do, don't mess with one with a sheet on from the Middle or Far East - just in case.
    Join Date: Nov 1999
    Posts: 1 ...??????

    oldtiffie has been here posting 1,000's of Wiki links and this dumb software says post=1

    WTF?

    vBulletin is a peice of crap, I am a member and licence holder of it on another site and it sucks ass. If the staff cant fix it I can. I bet this site is ready to crash again.

    Leave a comment:

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