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  • Spot drill question???

    Hey guys! Are spotting drills supposed to be hard to get started? Or did I get a bad batch? I bought 4 of them awhile back. Everyone of them is very hard to get started.
    Is this normal?
    Thanks!
    Russ
    I have tools I don't even know I own...

  • #2
    Not the ones I use. They have almost no web at the point and start very easily.
    Russ
    Master Floor Sweeper

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    • #3
      Originally posted by torker
      Hey guys! Are spotting drills supposed to be hard to get started? Or did I get a bad batch? I bought 4 of them awhile back. Everyone of them is very hard to get started.
      Is this normal?
      Thanks!
      Russ
      How hard are the spots you are trying to drill
      I better quit befor you guys hire a hit man.
      Seriously, the only time I have trouble is with a batch that was given to me and i did not notice they were tapered little suckers and went wierd in my jacobs chuck i snapped it off before i realized what i did.
      Steve

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      • #4
        I just bought about 30 surplus drill bits from Surplus Herbys the other day for 25 cents a piece. Really nice high quality brand new bits up to 1/2 inch or so, mostly metric but some letter and fractional sizes too. I found about 6 screw machine bits in the pile. They have a three flatted shank and about 3/4" of flutes, real stubby. I have been using them in the lathe as spot drills and they work perfectly, no flex and they start dead center.
        Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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        • #5
          "Spotting"

          Most Hardware stores - here anyway - sell quite cheap packs of a dozen or so 1/8" HSS drills. They are often "short/stubby" and some-times double-ended. They are used a lot by of people who drill and pop-rivet sheet-metal etc. on-site using portable electric or battery-operated drills.

          If I need to "web-thin" them I use my "Proxxon" die grinder. It really is a great tool.
          http://littlemachineshop.com/product...ory=1081446983

          I have found them to be very handy for "spotting". If I break one I have plenty of spares on hand.

          I find they work even better- as will most drills - if I centre-punch where I want the drill to go. I get no "wander" at all that way.

          I often drill right through with the 1/8" drill and use it as a "pilot" for a follow-up (usually 1/4") drill and just "sneak" the drill up to the size I want. Its usually a better faster job than just using a "spotter" followed by the 1/2" drill.

          If I want a hole dead-centre in the lathe, I start it, usually with a centre drill, then bore the 60 degree angle out with a small boring bar. The drills just follow it dead centre as nice as you like.

          I do not like drills spinning in my tail-stock or in a chuck. Heavier drilling where a tang on a MT shank is required is done on the pedestal drill or the HF-45 Mill-drill.

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          • #6
            These are pretty expensive(about $10 each) 3/8" dia spot drills. I'm only using them in mild steel.
            I'm using all three drill presses in my hole drilling "station". I have a jig the plates pop into then spot them....then on to a pilot hole etc.
            The idea here is maximum speed. I don't have time to fool with measuring and punching hundreds of holes.
            It doesn't matter what I've tried these in...lathe, mill, drillpress...they are still hard to start. The points look sharp, the cutting egdes are sharp...there's just something wrong. I thought they'd be like going into butter....they aren't.
            LOL... I may have paid a lot for these but that doesn't always mean they are good...
            I may have to fire up my Franken sharpener and see what I can come up with.
            Russ
            I have tools I don't even know I own...

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            • #7
              Same here, Russ --- I also got 4 of em recently and they wont start a hole worth a crap, -- the web appears to be much to large. On starting a hole, in the center is this gnawed up area that is obviously not being cut ... I'm sure not impressed with em.
              If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something........

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              • #8
                What deg angle are they? I use both 90 and 118 deg spot drills and the 90's definitely have a harder time starting in the harder materials so they are use for mostly aluminum. The 118 have no problem with steels or stainless. Can you get away with just using a shorter screw machine drill first? eliminates one op and you have your pilot hole.


                Thinning the web like tif said will help also although for ten bucks a pop I would be a little pissed at having to do this, its not like you are drilling some odd material, they should be fine out of the box.

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                • #9
                  Mo, I tried using a stubby lil' drill...some i got from Boeing. This new chinese steel has a ton of ugly (lumpy) millscale on it. the smallish drills just skate around on it and wander.
                  The spot drills... you can really lean on them and they don't skate. however.. you shouldn't have to lean on them for that kind of money.
                  i'll see if i can get a closeup of one later so you real guys can maybe see what's up.
                  I'd send them back but I'm in the middle of a big job right now and need them.
                  Bill... That sounds just like the ones I have.
                  Russ
                  I have tools I don't even know I own...

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                  • #10
                    I've been using 1/4" diam ones from KEO for a while now. Extremely pleased with the results.

                    The web is very small and there appears to be no deflection on starting the hole. I figure they were made well.

                    Geoff

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                    • #11
                      Russ, not that you don't know what one looks like, but i picked this 1/4" KEO up at KBC, figured a pic would let you compare points.

                      small web, cuts very well

                      .

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                      • #12
                        McGyver... Thanks for that! I think I see the problem.
                        Mine are waaay pointier than that. Now I'm thinking they are the ones Mo said he only used in alu.
                        These ones come down to an almost needle point... there is no web on them.
                        Nope.. I don't really know what they are supposed to look like.
                        I've always used center drills for spotting.... until i read i was doing it all wrong.
                        I have tools I don't even know I own...

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                        • #13
                          imo, the whole reason they are the right tool for the job is that the angle is the same (supposed to be at least) as a drill's so it doesn't start with chatter like they can with a centre drilled hole. now i'm wondering what you are use.....glad the pic was useful
                          .

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                          • #14
                            McGyver.. i just asked the salesman to send me some good spot drills.
                            I will say.. the sharp lil points make it very easy to pick up a mark...but it's the drilling part i don't care for.
                            I have tools I don't even know I own...

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                            • #15
                              Russ, I have had the same problem with ctr. drills sometimes and I found that I was not spinning them up fast enough. Maybe trying different rpms may help in your situation. Just a thought.
                              Dave

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