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Best material for window in blast cabinet???

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  • Best material for window in blast cabinet???

    The blast cabinet at the school is pretty old, and someone replaced the window with some sort of plastic. Now the window gets foggy with fine particles as soon as you start working. It's almost impossible to see what you're doing. It's not as bad around the outer edges, but you can't always see well from there.

    It looks like there's some sort of electrostatic attraction going on, but wiping the inside doesn't remove enough of the dust film to help much.

    I want to get the instructor to replace the window with something that'll work better, but don't know what to suggest.

    Any products mentioned in my posts have been endorsed by their manufacturer.

  • #2
    I would probably go for a bit of laminated glass. This would stop the static problem and is shatterproof.

    If it does'nt fit, hit it.


    • #3
      Plexi glass is fine But buy some mylar clear thingies from Harbor freight to stick on, it makes it last longer/


      • #4
        The "used" (homemade) blastcabinet I'm just getting to work... it has glass windows but he had clear plastic "tearoffs" inside to protect the glass.
        I'd like to know where he got those, they look pretty handy.
        I have tools I don't even know I own...


        • #5
          TP Tools sells the clear plastic stickons....



          • #6
            Go to a supplier of windows that also does heavy equipment repairs. The ROPS canopies are glazed using heavy Lexan sheet that has a super hard protective layer. One brand name is Mar-Guard (Lexan). The coating is so hard that it can be scrubbed with a brass brush without scratching and it doesn't seem to develop a static charge. I pick up 1/2" thick pieces of this for free from a local glass shop since pieces smaller that several square feet are of no other use as they aren't big enough to repair a machine window and there isn't a big business making vent windows for armored limos around here. Note that regular Lexan isn't suitable as it scratches very easily.
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            • #7
              Evan.. That Mar-Guard... here it is very expensive.
              They want a fortune for even little scrap pieces.
              I have tools I don't even know I own...


              • #8
                Yeah, the local guy has given me what would normally cost maybe $500 or more. I made a few engravings on some of it for him including a Harley. He's happy. Since Roger needs some for a school he might find somebody willing to make a donation.
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                • #9
                  Old PM idea (untested by me)

                  PM has a 16 vol set (give or take a few) that reprints some of their old info ( guessing 1950s, '60s, maybe early '70s).

                  Build it yourself uses a couple of galvanized tubs - clamshell - to form the cabinet. Suggests a shield of plastic/nylon window screen on the inside of the glass porthole. It should be spaced about 3/4 inch from the glass.


                  • #10
                    The tear off idea is the way to go. I bought a roll of acetate from an art supply house and cut the whole roll to the right width on the table saw. I then just cut the right length whenever I need another piece. I use clear packing tape to put it on the glass. Works fine.


                    • #11
                      I've been using clear window tinting near 20 years now. Sandblast cabinet windows, lathe and mill guards get a film as well.

                      Mar-gard and like products ususally run about $wow'sq.

                      Tear-offs? $8.00'sq.

                      Window tint runs in less at about $0.50'sq. for 4mil. You can also double the thickness for longer use time.
                      The 8 or 10 mill film is great if you wish not to double the 4mil.

                      Below:Not the same type as what I use but it is a start for you all. Look for the type that best suits you.
                      I have found that the amber works great if you haven't a dust recovery system on your blast cabinet. Amber is about like a fog light lens.


                      Last edited by Patch; 07-16-2008, 10:26 AM.


                      • #12
                        when i built my cabinet i used a chevy truck back window. easy and cheap to replace and has lasted 7 years now.


                        • #13
                          The OE window in the Skat Blast at work is tempered glass. I also use the peel away films others have mentioned. I WOULD ADVISE AGAINST THE USE FLOAT OR PLATE GLASS. I'll suspect you would know why.
                          Last edited by ERBenoit; 07-16-2008, 05:55 PM.
                          Paying Attention Is Not That Expensive.


                          • #14
                            Evan-- Aluminum oxide is a lot harder than a brass brush If I had an expensive piece of Lexan, I would want to protect it with the tear-offs.

                            I run an old shop vac dedicated to the task of keeping a negative pressure on the cabinet to deal with the dust problem. Of course you have to watch where you are pointing the gun, too or it will start sucking up a lot of your abraisive.

                            Paul Carpenter
                            Mapleton, IL


                            • #15
                              There must be as many answers as there are posters. I made my cabinet using one of the glass shelves from a refrigerator I trashed. It's 14 X 24 inches and I figured if it stands up to glass jars etc. beeing dumped on it, it should work for a sandblast cabinet. I just use a soft bench brush to clean off the dust. I made the cabinet to fit the glass. If you need to fit the glass to an existing cabinet, I don't know if that tempered glass can be cut.

                              Ernie B