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busybee 10x18 lathe discoverys today

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  • busybee 10x18 lathe discoverys today

    ok first off if oyu get he follower rest you might have to mod the mountig holes as it likely wont line up like mine didnt so i got my buddy to fix that for me cause any how the fix will see in the pics..




    now the discovery part wel turns out this sucker came with a carriage lock my firend George Ewen a forum member here as well .was by today to vist brought me back my follower rest. any how so i took her out and sure enough its the carragie lock so i did the spring trick like the tail stock and i get back an inch or so of my forward space now to. 1/4 turn unlock it or lock it slick ,, i always wanted a carriage lock and didnt really want make one now iam happy i dont have to.. the book for the lathe makes no mention of this device even being there so now when iam parting or other stuff i can lock down my carriage now..




  • #2
    My BusyBee 10" x 18" lathe comes with a carriage lock on the side of the carriage which faces the tailstock.---didn't yours come with one???--Brian
    Brian Rupnow

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    • #3
      Originally posted by airsmith282
      This thing is a carriage lock??? i thought it was just something sticking out to get in the way when you try to move the tailstock forward to where it needs to be for small stuff!!!!!

      Comment


      • #4
        looks like you have it positioned wrong ..maybe it should be turned through 90 degrees

        all the best.markj

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        • #5
          Originally posted by aboard_epsilon
          looks like you have it positioned wrong ..maybe it should be turned through 90 degrees

          all the best.markj
          thats what it looks like to me too...

          ive been using this lathe for 3 years now, and never realized that thats what it was...

          i use my lathe for lots of small parts, and moving the tailstock all the way up, it used to sometimes sit ontop of that part and then it wouldnt be alligned properly... im gonna have to check into it when i get home!!

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          • #6
            take it off .take the tail stock off ...and slide it down the ways from right at the far end ...

            if you look under the tailstock you should see a similar device that locks that .

            all the best.markj

            Comment


            • #7
              Guys--I have a BusyBee 10 x 18" lathe. I am going to post 2 pictures here--In one picture the carriage lock is swung 90 degrees to its normal position, just so you can see what it looks like. It is normally NEVER in that position. In the other picture, you can see it in its normal position, where it always stays. It does not interfere with the tailstock, ever. To lock the carriage, you tighten up the nut that you see directly above the carriage lock. To unlock the carriage you loosen the nut.

              Brian Rupnow

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              • #8
                The tail stock on my Grizzly lathe has a similar clamp and I put a spring between it and the tail stock to ensure it wouldn't bind when relocating the tail stock. Binding was a PITA before the spring was added. That wouldn't be a bad idea for that carriage lock.

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                • #9
                  its alread fliped right now , it was like its showen in the pic i had no idea what it was my rule is if it aint broke dont touch and if not in the maule really dont touch so, it was george that told me it was a carriage lock..i use it all the time now expecially when doing parting cuts and man its alot better i love it ,, i also spring loaded it the same way i did my tail stock so its a 1/4 turn to .lock or unlock .. i have had this lathe 3 years now and its a great lathe i use it pretty much everyday for hours on end..

                  brian if you find a sloppy area in your mill Quill check the speed controil plate that you remove to clean i had to turn the heads of the screws down a few thou to cure that sloppy area now its like it was never there at all .so my mill is 100% perfect now..

                  also if you got the Mt2 model just buy the arbors that have the 1 inch head that you can mod , i got 1 plus an mt2 drill arbor drilled them out for some milling bits that are metric i needed access to works slick for home made endmill holders you will also need a mt4 to mt 2 reducer to use in the lathe when you drill the sizes you need i got perfect fits for my 5 and 3.5 MM end mills
                  , no need to go MT3 upgrade its alot cheaper to just get the blank arbors and make waht you need for the milll..

                  there auctually called stub arbors on busy bees site...about 10.00 each so not bad you can make upto 5/8 for sure iam going to try a 7/8 its pushig it but it might just do it ,,, some end and ball mill that are larger then 1.4 wil have to have a notch gound in as well so the end mill does not slip but 1/4 and under should be fine id think i uhave use my 3.5 and my 5mm and no slipage at all and no notches either..

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                  • #10
                    mine was tightened down at the 90* angle, so it sticks out and if i try to get the tailstock that close, it does interfere... if its turned front to back like it should be, it shouldnt interfere, but the way it came on my lathe, it does... and like airsmith, if its not broken, dont touch it!!! (unless its elecronic stuff that once apart will never go back together)

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                    • #11
                      I'm not impressed with the design of that lathe

                      the leadscrew is out in the open to collect all the swarf.

                      all the best.markj

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        This certainly won't meet with the approval of those of you with the "don't touch it" philosophy (something I thought was by nature bred out of those of us in this hobby), but you may want to modify that lock just a bit to prevent it going cockeyed again.

                        I still have my mini-lathe I bought some years back, and one modification I did was to make the tailstock cam-locking. When I did, I put a pin into the base of the tailstock that prevents the locking plate from rotating. Its just a simple pin thats a press fit into the base of the tailstock with a slip-fit hole in the piece that is the locking plate.

                        You could easily do the same thing with the carriage lock you have here....which appears to have a propensity for flipping itself around the wrong way.

                        Paul
                        Paul Carpenter
                        Mapleton, IL

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Lead-screw cover.

                          Originally posted by brian Rupnow
                          Guys--I have a BusyBee 10 x 18" lathe. I am going to post 2 pictures here--In one picture the carriage lock is swung 90 degrees to its normal position, just so you can see what it looks like. It is normally NEVER in that position. In the other picture, you can see it in its normal position, where it always stays. It does not interfere with the tailstock, ever. To lock the carriage, you tighten up the nut that you see directly above the carriage lock. To unlock the carriage you loosen the nut.

                          Brian,
                          as said often enough previously, I have - and am very pleased with, that lathe - same as AirSmith.

                          That exposed lead-screw and threading dial gear is a PITA but is easily rectified. Mine has a folded/pressed steel cover with a profile that follows the line of the underside of where the "green" apron is under-slung to the carriage. It covers the threading dial gears as well. It is bolted/screwed onto the lathe bed near the rack. It "sheds" all those cuttings nicely. It can easily be made by a Plumbing or Sheet-metal supplier/shop who could bend or form it easily at no great cost - and it will be well worth it. But DO have a fold or "bead" on the outer edge for "stiffness".

                          I am amazed that BusyBee has such a range of stuff. Do they carry spares for these lathes? There are none here in OZ that I can find. I didn't buy mine fro my usual dealer who does not stock this lathe but who does carry some spares for the machines that he does sell.

                          My lathe is a "3-in-1" - but the lathe is identical. I will post the (so called!!) "handbook" and a pic of my lead-screw cover set-up later as I have to go out for the rest of the day.

                          I would disengage the threading dial gear from the lead-screw unless screw-threading - applies to just about any lathe.

                          These are very nice lathes irrespective of the price - which was OK.

                          I'd like to reduce the lowest speed a bit though - just a bit too fast at times.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            i get all my spare parts from the busy bee head offiice in concord ontario

                            i have already gotten my self a few spare parts form them already just in case , i hate down time

                            the concord office seems to be the only place in canada for spare parts but thats not a problem iam only 3 or so hours form them and they ship me waht ever i need and shipping is good. anything i buy off the site i usaly just drive to barrie store to get the stuff


                            aboard_epsilon I'm not impressed with the design of that lathe

                            the leadscrew is out in the open to collect all the swarf.

                            all the best.markj



                            were would you have them puit the lead screw seems to be the nomal placemnt on hundreds of lathes i have seen, sure it collects a bit but never once have i had a jam and i keep things clean as iam wokring so its not goingot gather very much at all .. brass is the worse for getting on the screw but its life, the lathe totaly rocks and its really presision as well i have turned out some amazing stuff on it.. even made up a few endmill holders as well .. so whats not to like about the busy bee b2227L 10x18 lathe

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by airsmith282
                              i get all my spare parts from the busy bee head offiice in concord ontario

                              i have already gotten my self a few spare parts form them already just in case , i hate down time

                              the concord office seems to be the only place in canada for spare parts but thats not a problem iam only 3 or so hours form them and they ship me waht ever i need and shipping is good. anything i buy off the site i usaly just drive to barrie store to get the stuff


                              aboard_epsilon I'm not impressed with the design of that lathe

                              the leadscrew is out in the open to collect all the swarf.

                              all the best.markj



                              were would you have them puit the lead screw seems to be the nomal placemnt on hundreds of lathes i have seen, sure it collects a bit but never once have i had a jam and i keep things clean as iam wokring so its not goingot gather very much at all .. brass is the worse for getting on the screw but its life, the lathe totaly rocks and its really presision as well i have turned out some amazing stuff on it.. even made up a few endmill holders as well .. so whats not to like about the busy bee b2227L 10x18 lathe
                              The leadscrew is usually under the edge of the ways which act as an overhang to help shed swarf off the screw.

                              You might want to consider adding a couple nylon bristle brushes on spring fingers to keep the swarf out of the leadscrew.Like it is the swarf can work it's way into every part of the carrage including the halfnuts and feed gears.
                              I just need one more tool,just one!

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