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  • mill "brain surgery"

    Has anyone remover the top cover plate of a ZX45 mill (like a HF45 or Industrial Hobbies equivalent type). I want to get in and clean it out before I put in new oil. I thought Oldtifie had his apart maybe someone else has to. The typical Chinglish manual and I use that term loosely, doesn't have very good detail as to how the internals are assembled and how they would come apart or be reassembled.


    The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

    Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

  • #2
    Try these 2 groups, you'll have to join to gain access to the files,

    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/doveta...guid=359953240

    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_d...guid=185316854

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    • #3
      Yep, the yahoo mill-drill group has recent threads concerning this very thing.

      This mill (dove-tail) has been almost the only topic over there recently ... the guys seem to really be pleased with them.
      If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something........

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      • #4
        I would ask sir John Stevenson he's really very wise with these things and really helpful try him anyway good luck Alistair
        Please excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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        • #5
          I've been using mine for a few months now, it replaced an older style mill/drill and is an enormous improvement. The quality of the finish on milled surfaces is far superior to my old one.
          The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

          Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

          Comment


          • #6
            Good Mill?

            Hi Loosenut
            I like the looks of this mill but have never used one. I have seen the small mill that has a dovetail column that rotates to different angles. The problem with that design is that there is no quill. So if a guy wants to drill a 1/32" hole the hole head has to move up and down, not good. Your mill is a good choise for the money I think. I am surprised the oil has to be changed so soon after purchase. Are you doing that as a precaution or is that what is recomended?
            Regards,
            Chuck

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            • #7
              Also sort through the Industrial Hobbies forum over on CNCZone. I seem to remember a couple of fellas taking their mill heads apart to fix oil leaks or make other mods, and there are pictures. I've never had mine apart, but I recall there is a bolt on top that sticks up. If you torque it down it pushes the lid up so you can get in there.

              Cheers,

              BW
              ---------------------------------------------------

              http://www.cnccookbook.com/index.htm
              Try G-Wizard Machinist's Calculator for free:
              http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCGWizard.html

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              • #8
                Ishamura, the talented Japanese amateur, converted his RF-45 to a belt drive.

                He hasn't translated the text to English yet, but lots of pictures of the head disassembly:

                http://homepage3.nifty.com/amigos/58...oBeltDrive.htm

                "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did."

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                • #9
                  http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=28623

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by chipmaker2
                    Hi Loosenut
                    I like the looks of this mill but have never used one. I have seen the small mill that has a dovetail column that rotates to different angles. The problem with that design is that there is no quill. So if a guy wants to drill a 1/32" hole the hole head has to move up and down, not good. Your mill is a good choise for the money I think. I am surprised the oil has to be changed so soon after purchase. Are you doing that as a precaution or is that what is recomended?
                    Regards,
                    Chuck
                    I'm changing the oil because I have ran it for a little while and now I want to make sure there arn't any particles of metal and iffy oil in the mill.

                    This is a good mill for a home shop, it's not a Bridgeport but it is a step up from a mill/drill, a bench top mill actually. It has a larger capacity than an X3, if you need it, but is like a big brother to them.

                    The only down side is that it is louder then a belt drive mill/drill.
                    The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

                    Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yep I popped the top on my gearhead mill. Had to fix the gear cluster... went real easy. I did not find any sand or crud in it. If you look under it infront of the swivel you'll find the drain plug.

                      http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=28623
                      Wow... where did the time go. I could of swore I was only out there for an hour.

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                      • #12
                        I have the Wholesale Tools version of the RF 45. I had to remove the head cover a couple of years ago. Was not real easy and I didn't take pictures. On mine you remove the head bolts, then looking closely you will see threaded holes in the cover. These are for jacking screws, the cover on mine had taper pins holding it. After I used the jacking screws to lift it clear of the taper pins it went ok. There was not any pieces of metal in mine, in fact the inside was nicely painted. Surprised me.
                        Last edited by PHiers; 09-15-2008, 07:53 PM. Reason: typo
                        Paul in NE Ohio

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by PHiers
                          I have the Wholesale Tools version of the RF 45. I had to remove the head cover a couple of years ago. Was not real easy and I didn't take pictures. On mine you remove the head bolts, then looking closely you will see threaded holes in the cover. These are for jacking screws, the cover on mine had taper pins holding it. After I used the jacking screws to lift it clear of the taper pins it went ok. There was not any pieces of metal in mine, in fact the inside was nicely painted. Surprised me.

                          That's the same machine that I have. I was only going to take the top off to make sure that every thing was OK and there wasn't any debree inside the gear Head but now I might just flush it really well and refill it. I just need to find a local supply of mobil Dte oil.
                          The shortest distance between two points is a circle of infinite diameter.

                          Bluewater Model Engineering Society at https://sites.google.com/site/bluewatermes/

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            In case you missed this:"

                            I changed the gear lube and whatever I used foams which raises the level and leaks down the quill now. Enjoy."

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                            • #15
                              Heres the translated version of that Japanese page from babelfish (Babelfish is now Yahoo? What happened to altavista?) My Kanji sucks so I had to use it...

                              http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate...rUrl=Translate

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