dro conversion

[laddy]

Hey,
Anyone know of a site that will lead me to converting an Old vertical milling machine to DRO? I think I need a step by step kindof instruction to decide if this is something I really want to do. As always thanks to all for the help in advance. Fred

[NickH]

Is it a knee mill, round column or what?
A piccy could help too,
Nick

[laddy]

No it is a vertical Jig borer. They made few and paper work on them is non existant. It is a substantial machine labeled under the Sheldon/ Vernon badge sold by Delta.

[SGW]

Exactly what do you want to know? (Or if you knew that you wouldn't need to ask?)

Do you want to know how to mount DRO scales on a machine that was never in the world designed for them? If that's the case...it's pretty much up to your ingenuity. You may want to review the installation instructions in the documentation on the Acu-Rite website www.acu-rite.com . Not that you'll necessarily get an Acu-Rite DRO, but the essentials are likely to be pretty much the same no matter what brand you get.

Basically, you need to mount the scale parallel to the table travel (up/down and in/out) within a few thousandths of an inch. The read head has to be mounted such that its position is correct relative to the scale, again within a few thousandths of an inch. Preferably, the scale and read head ought to be somewhat protected against damage.

While that may sound daunting, it's certainly do-able.

[laddy]

That's what I needed to know! Thanks Fred

[davidh]

after you see a picture of one thats installed on anything similar it will become very very clear. at least for me. i do well with visual training.
davidh

[danlb]

Not to hijack the thread, but on a related note,

I have a machine similar to the jet jtm830, a 5 foot tall knee mill with 8 x 30 table. I bought a DRO for it and I'm looking at how to mount the scales.

The best place for the X axis scale is probably right on top of the goove used for the table stops. This will preclude the use of the stops in the future.

I have enough room to make standoffs so that the scale clears the stops. Then I could still reach in there with a wrench to move the stops if needed. I just don't know if it's worth the effort.

My Big question is whether people still use the stops after they get a good DRO? Do you just use the DRO instead, or are there still operations where you set the X and y stops and crank away at the handles?

This is tomorrow's project, so any feedback will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dan

[doctor demo]

Not to hijack the thread, but on a related note,

I have a machine similar to the jet jtm830, a 5 foot tall knee mill with 8 x 30 table. I bought a DRO for it and I'm looking at how to mount the scales.


My Big question is whether people still use the stops after they get a good DRO? Do you just use the DRO instead, or are there still operations where you set the X and y stops and crank away at the handles?

This is tomorrow's project, so any feedback will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dan

Hi Dan, I had a BP clone for a dozen years and never used the stops. I now have a BP EZ Trak and the scale is in front with a guard over it that looks like a little shelf, I keep a steel rule on it I need all the storage space I can find.


Steve

[gellfex]

I recently discovered that if you have a drive on the X axis, having the automatic stop mounted is a good idea! But I have a 24" table, so I have a smaller envelope to play with.

I too am starting to lust for XY dro, I've had one on my quill for many years.

[danlb]

Thanks Steve. I appreciate the input.

Did you ever use the stops before getting a DRO? I've seldom used stops since my original mill did not have them. There were times I wished I did since I did... overshooting a mark sucks.

I guess what I'm trying to decide is if there are times when people who were used to stops missed them / abandonded them after installing a DRO.

Dan

[danlb]

I recently discovered that if you have a drive on the X axis, having the automatic stop mounted is a good idea! But I have a 24" table, so I have a smaller envelope to play with.

I too am starting to lust for XY dro, I've had one on my quill for many years.

LOL


I saw some DROs at shars.com that are much less expensive. The use the inductive Chinese scales that are much cheaper. If I had gone with one of them the point would be moot since the scales are so thin. The accuracy is not quite as good (.001 +- .005 VS .0002 +-.00005) but I'm not sure I can really use the extra accuracy. My mill is 30 years old, after all. Heck, my eyes are 20 years older than that!

I've used a mill with DRO at the local metalworking club, and it does make it a LOT easier to hit your mark.

Dan

[davidwdyer]

Not having had any real training, perhaps I don't know what the "stops" are. But on my BP, what I think of as stops are on the front. I installed my DRO scale on the back side. They are definitely worth the money and effort to install. Once you use one, you become spoiled for anything else.

[danlb]

Not having had any real training, perhaps I don't know what the "stops" are. But on my BP, what I think of as stops are on the front. I installed my DRO scale on the back side. They are definitely worth the money and effort to install. Once you use one, you become spoiled for anything else.

The stops are movable blocks attached to the table that hit a post that is attached to the saddle. It limits the movement so you can not overshoot your cut.

The stop and post are outlined here in red.



This is when they meet.



Dan

[laddy]

cabin fever learning

Hey,
Just got back from the Cabin Fever expo in York, Pa there was a demo of "Shooting Star Technology" WoW! Really nice! They had two set ups one was a two axis setup and one was a three axis set up. The installation didn't seem like too big a deal. The price for the 2 axis was $550 and the 3 axis was 699. A bit more than I want to spend but super cool. If anybody is interested ( I have no association with these people what so ever) they have a web sit

https://www.star-techno.com

Best regards to all Fred

[davidwdyer]

That's what I figured the stops were. Mine also has a rail with little stops on it which changes the forward and reverse feature. I still have the old style system of motors and gears which moves the table and hangs off to one side. It does not have the "fast forward" that the newer models have, but it works just fine for my purposes.