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Hilti Gun?

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  • Hilti Gun?

    Anyone use one of these units? I was told they would be good on block walls, but >>?????

  • #2
    Do you mean........

    the powder activated unit or the hammer drill? It depends on what you are doing. Drilling holes? fastening stud to the wall? Need more info.



    • #3
      Powder-actuated is great for loads perpendicular to the fastener. Pullout resistance is poor. If you need that, use an expansion anchor. Don't expect much on a block wall unless you drill or nail at a joint. The block will break.


      • #4
        I bought a broken one for a couple of quid, fixed it and it's great for steel, bangs a 3/4" fastner straight in
        I'll find a use for it one of these days,


        • #5
          I bought a Hilti power driver (hit it with a hammer). It worked great and with the right ammunition I could drive nails through a 2/4 nailer into a concrete wall. Sometimes they'd even stay put. My problem was the concrete. It was an agregate mix and when the nail would hit a rock it would explode the rock and so was left with nothing to bite into. I gave up.

          Later I bought some carbide concrete drills and tried to finish the job but that kind of concrete is just no good for such things and so I still have bare walls.

          In the 1970's I had to install a radar system on a building near the water front in Los Angeles harbor. The only route for the cable between the display console and the antenna was up an elevator shaft and that is some of the hardest concrete going. The Hilti gun had no problem setting pins and they held fast. That old radar was still going the last time I saw it around 2002 or so.


          • #6
            If you are thinking of the cartridge type you should be careful.
            In that you have to make sure the gun is perpendicular to the surface otherwise it will fire pieces of material at you!!
            If you are fixing relatively soft material to the wall ie wood then you will need some metal washers to stop the fixing going straight through and fixing nothing.
            Most times trial and error but then when it works it is super fast although not cheap.

            I have tools I don't know how to use!!


            • #7
              NEED MORE INFO!!!!!



              • #8
                Start here?

                Why not start here?

                I haven't read any of it other than the headings - but at least it is a start:


                • #9
                  Madman, without knowing your application this might not apply, but I will throw it out anyway. For nailing wood stripping or other material to cinder block use horseshoe nails, they go in and wedge tight where a concrete nail will just make a loose hole.


                  • #10
                    be careful, have fired fixings through a 11" wall into a public toilet at head height while fixing hilti studs for a pipe on the outside, cartriges are color coded eg red, black yellow. a red cartrige will stick a 1/2" nail into steel all the way in!
                    speak to a hilti rep for the right ones [i have a sample of an 80mm nail fired into a steel block then sectioned and polished]


                    • #11
                      I have "bin there done that AND got the T-shirt." Powder-actuated drivers do EVERYTHING everyone else has said. Loose fasteners, bent fasteners, broken fasteners. I was shown a SLOW but cheap and reliable method as follows:- Use a hammer drill and a 3/16" carbide bit and drill a hole through the lumber and into the wall. Insert a short length of #14 copper wire. Use a BFH and drive a 3 1/4" nail home in the hole. I tried pulling those nails and broke the concrete away. Not recommended in a wet environment as the nail corrodes quickly. Duffy
                      Duffy, Gatineau, Quebec