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case hardening question

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  • case hardening question

    I am engaged in making a RG-G gatling gun and at the point that I need to heat treat the extractors. According to the drawings they need to be case hardened. I used ground flat stock 1018 as per the drawings, the extractors are .125 X .125 approx 1.400 long. My question is what is the best method for heating them, I don't have access to an oven so I was going to use a torch (mapp gas) and case hardening compound (kasnet).
    Anyone have any suggestions on the best way?, can I, do I need to, draw them after hardening?
    I have not worked with case hardening compounds so kinda in the dark, I did make extras for expermentation purposes tho.

  • #2
    Kasenit will work, functionally speaking. It does not create a colorful case-hardened appearance, though, if that matters. For the traditional look, you would need to heat soak the part in bits of leather, bone, or charcoal -- I've never done it, but imagine google would point you in the right direction.

    Your mapp gas should work for that small a part, with Kasenit.

    I doubt you need to temper 1018, but if you want to be safe, put the case hardened part in the kitchen oven at 500 degrees for an hour.


    • #3
      For an extractor the hook part of it needs to be wear proof as posible. Wouldn't it have been better made of a high carbon steel or spring steel?

      What caliber are you building?
      It's only ink and paper


      • #4
        I would have thought so but apparently the 1018 works ok. its .22LR caliber.


        • #5
          the depth of case depends on the soak time at temp, you can (or at least the heat treatment guy) can get it up to 50 thou.....but kasenit will only be a few thou. one of the advantages of case hardening is that you can leave it dead hard, the part isn't brittle because of the soft inner core.


          • #6
            I have the plans for a .22 cal Gatling gun. I don't remember the name of the plans.
            It's only ink and paper