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  • woodruff key cutter question

    I need to cut a tee slot in a piece of brass (360) 8 inches long. I need use 5/16 X 1/16 cutter to do the slot. My question is what direction should I feed the cutter, climb mill or conventional?
    Suggestions would be of great help

  • #2
    You will be doing both if your cutter is centered.
    Every Mans Work Is A Portrait of Him Self
    http://sites.google.com/site/machinistsite/TWO-BUDDIES
    http://s178.photobucket.com/user/lan...?sort=3&page=1

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    • #3
      Am I missing something?

      Originally posted by rolland
      I need to cut a tee slot in a piece of brass (360) 8 inches long. I need use 5/16 X 1/16 cutter to do the slot. My question is what direction should I feed the cutter, climb mill or conventional?
      Suggestions would be of great help
      Rolland.

      Those sizes seem awfully small.

      Is that a 5/16" diameter cutter that is 1/16" thick/wide? If that is the diameter of the cutter, for the "bottom" of the "tee" the vertical "slot" is going to be pretty small too as is the shank diameter of the "T" cutter!!

      I agree with Lane as regards climb milling.

      Am I missing something?

      I hope so.

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      • #4
        oldtiffie
        I should have explained a little more what I am doing. I am building a Gatling Gun and the piece I am making is the magazine for the cartridges it is a .22 caliber, the rim will ride in the slot I am cutting. I can make the cut in two passes but was concerned about clearing the chips as the slot is so small. I thought maybe climb milling might be best as I can clear the chips with air as it cuts. But then I have not done anything this small so was hoping someone might have.
        Hope that helps some. Yes the cutter is 1/16 thick 5/16 diameter

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        • #5
          That's cleared it up!!

          Thanks Rolland.

          That clears it up nicely.

          As the cut is not substantial it is unlikely that the cutter will "grab" and so "pull" on both the cutter and the mill table if your mill lead-screw has a substantial (say more than 0.010") "back lash" and on that basis I'd say give it a try with "climb milling".

          I would try it out on a bit of scrap first.

          Climb milling is "self-cleaning" to the extent that it "hooks" the chips back out from the cutting edges/zone. It also starts each cutting tooth off better as well.

          If "climb" milling doesn't work, revert to "conventional" milling but keep the feed up and clean the swarf/cuttings away as if they get caught in the cutter they can get dragged (back) into the cutting zone.

          The graphic at the bottom of this page explains both processes very well - just make sure you understand it.

          http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milling_cutter

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          • #6
            How are you going to make the cut in two passes? The head on a .22 is about 5/16"x1/16" and if you use a 5/16"x1/16" cutter it will be one pass down the center of the part.

            I went to the shop and measured the case on a .22 and it is .272" and the rim is .045" so the 5/16" woodruff cutter will work but it's going to be one pass down the middle of the slot for the cartridge case.

            Buy three or four cutters because the shipping is the same for one or a dozen that size cutter. You'll need them anyway.
            It's only ink and paper

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