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Any reason not to cut two more key slots in R8 collets?

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  • Any reason not to cut two more key slots in R8 collets?

    As others who have made power drawbar attachments have said, the most time consuming part of changing collets now is aligning the slot in the collet.

    Any reason not to cut two more slots in them?




  • #2
    HOLY>>>> What kind of power drawbar is THAT?


    I dont' know but you should check the clearance amount and the strenght.

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    • #3
      those little impacts are about 50 fto lbs. about the same as a 3/8" air ratchet. don't get excited. . . . . , oh,
      and merry christmas. . . . .

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      • #4
        Oh, um just remembered. May not be an issue of why as much as how. They're hardened.

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        • #5
          Why use the collet key at all? It's easy to hold the collet/tool holder in place when the drawbar is actuated. When the drawbar is spinning up the thread there's no holding counter-torque requred to speak of. Once the drawbar takes its first tention there collet is against the taper.

          Unscrew the quill bearing retainer, remove the dog point setscrew, and live your milling life free of further trouble.

          Sure as hell you will be using a shell mill or a small carbide face mill, spin the adaptor, and bugger up the setscrew/key anyway.

          BTW, good home made power drawbar hook-up but I'm puzzled by the big honkin handle.
          Last edited by Forrest Addy; 12-24-2008, 05:33 PM.

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          • #6
            I made it using a crossed roller slide (the black part) that I got on ebay.

            The handle is just to put it within easy reach.

            "Sure as hell you will be using a shell mill or a small carbide face mill, spin the adaptor, and bugger up the setscrew/key anyway."

            I've never spun an end mill, but I am concerned about that happening with a face mill and messing up the spindle bore.

            I'm not clear if you're recommending leaving or removing the set screw.

            If my collets are hard, they're not very hard. They score easily with a file, so it should be easy w/a carbide end mill.

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            • #7
              Remove the screw. If every one would do that. The milling world would be a happy place. IT serves no good purpose.
              Every Mans Work Is A Portrait of Him Self
              http://sites.google.com/site/machinistsite/TWO-BUDDIES
              http://s178.photobucket.com/user/lan...?sort=3&page=1

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              • #8
                I guess r8 is still a driving taper. Not like CAT-40 or something

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                • #9
                  "Remove the screw. If every one would do that. The milling world would be a happy place. IT serves no good purpose."

                  It would sure be a lot easier, and achieve the purpose better; even w/3 slots I still have to align to one.

                  So the consensus is that if there's enough force to spin the collet, it's likely enough to damage the set screw?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by noah katz
                    "Remove the screw. If every one would do that. The milling world would be a happy place. IT serves no good purpose."

                    It would sure be a lot easier, and achieve the purpose better; even w/3 slots I still have to align to one.

                    So the consensus is that if there's enough force to spin the collet, it's likely enough to damage the set screw?
                    If you spin a collet are a cutter . you are already doing something bad wrong.
                    I take the screw out of every mill I have ran,and throw it as far as i can. nothing but a pain in the a$$.
                    Every Mans Work Is A Portrait of Him Self
                    http://sites.google.com/site/machinistsite/TWO-BUDDIES
                    http://s178.photobucket.com/user/lan...?sort=3&page=1

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                    • #11
                      I'm impressed by the homebrew power drawbar setup. So simple - you just grab the handle to lower the driver onto the nut!
                      Cheers,

                      Frank Ford
                      HomeShopTech

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                      • #12
                        The only purpose of the key in the R8 spindle is to generate posts on these sites as to it's value and how to remove a collet or endmill holder that has become jammed in the spindle when it spun.

                        Rockwell mills and probably others do not have the key from the start.
                        Jim H.

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                        • #13
                          I'm probably about to get flamed. . .

                          I followed everybody's advice and took the screw out for a while but I had to put put it back in to save my sanity. The threads on a few of my collets are sticky and the lack of the screw quadruples the time required to get the collet tightened down on the tool since several more hands are then required to keep the collet in place while trying to tighten the draw bar.

                          --Cameron

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                          • #14
                            So how do you get the screw/pin/key or whatever it is out?

                            I looked up the spindle w/a light and mirror, and there's just a nub sticking out, though it seems to have been machined part way across the diameter, making a step.

                            Thanks, Frank. It really is great, couldn't be simpler or more intuitive, i.e move the lever the way you want the drawbar to turn.

                            Cameron, if it were me I'd get a new drawbar and/or set of collets; that kind of annoyance just isn't worth it.

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                            • #15
                              Clean-up time

                              Er-r-r-r Cameron,
                              why not just "clean up" those threads?

                              As its Christmas, instead of getting "flamed", get "flambé"-ed instead.

                              http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flambe

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