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OK, next newb question - your hacksaw

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  • OK, next newb question - your hacksaw

    My gut tells me I should buy the cheapest hacksaw possible (preferably made of lead, and bent) since no one ever really uses them.

    What type of hacksaw do you prefer if you can't get a bent one made of lead?

  • #2
    If i cant fit it on the bandsaw then i reach for my trusty Bahco hacksaw with a good blade in it.

    Its got a good stiff frame and a comfy handle. After i realised what difference a good saw made, i chucked all the cheap crap in the bin.
    If it does'nt fit, hit it.


    • #3
      I use my hacksaws all the time. plural as i have 4 on the go, different pitches and one just for brass. Cheapest anything never seems like good value to me, but i don't think i ever bought one either. They just seem to accumulate.


      • #4
        I've got a pretty decent hacksaw frame; it does seem to work a bit better than the cheap ones.

        But mostly I use my 4x6 H/V bandsaw....
        Try to make a living, not a killing. -- Utah Phillips
        Don't believe everything you know. -- Bumper sticker
        Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
        There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
        Law of Logical Argument - Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
        Don't own anything you have to feed or paint. - Hood River Blackie


        • #5
          Hacksaw Thread.

          Tony, have a look at this thread. Hacksaws examined in detail.




          • #6

            I would recommend the Lenox Hackmaster - if they are still available...

            Get a good hacksaw frame - blades will last longer, will cut straighter and generally be a lot less of a pain to use. A good hacksaw frame like the Hackmaster has no flex, keeps the blade tight and rarely - if ever - sheds the blade. A fine tool, and that helps with doing fine work.


            • #7
              oh crap, i just opened up the old link. . . . . sorry.


              • #8
                I have a Snap-On frame I bought new in 1964 and it still works great.


                • #9
                  I bought a Lenox of the style discussed here, some 18 and 24 tooth Starrett bi-metal blades, and an automatic center punch.

                  On the company's dime, Merry Christmas!


                  • #10
                    If possible get one that can rotate the blade so you can cut wierd stuff or make deep cuts. I cannot afford and cannot find space for a bandsaw in my parent's shop, so I sometimes use the parting blade in the lathe to cut stuff most of the way and finish with the saw, or just saw it. Make sure it is easy to adjust- Mine isnt.
                    Last edited by Teenage_Machinist; 01-07-2009, 11:47 PM.


                    • #11
                      Under the "afford it" part, I buy most tools, including the three decent hacksaws I have, at estate and garage sales.

                      It's cheaper, and you get very good tools if you are selective. I have no problem with paying $2 for a hacksaw that is a lever type tension hacksaw, like a Dreier or similar. The blade doesn't rotate, but I still have a POS somewhere that does, when and if I ever need that. Haven't needed it in years.

                      By contrast, I have a Starrett hacksaw, came in a box of something or another. It's a piece of junk, absolutely no better that what you buy at Target or Big Lots. It just has a red handle and not a black one.....

                      I have lots of stuff like that which I would sell on ebay, if ebay hadn't turned into such a prune.

                      Keep eye on ball.
                      Hashim Khan


                      • #12
                        My hacksaws (I own four) were my most used hand tools until I bought a bandsaw. Definitely worth owning a good one. All of mine are on the crappy side and I've been idly looking for a good, quality replacement. 'Course now that I have a 4X6 bandsaw, I don't use them as much.


                        • #13
                          I used to dread hacksawing till I got a Facom saw. Since then I've never skinned my knuckles, and the whole process is smoother and quicker. It has rotating blade capability, and is rigid enough for you to feel in touch with what the blade is doing.

                          Oh, and a drop or two of cutting fluid in the slot if it's less than an inch deep, or else on both sides of the blade, say every 30 -50 strokes. Makes if smell more interesting, too.

                          I picked up a junior size rotating blade saw at the local DIY the other day. A job for the round file (round file = waste paper basket ?). I may remake the blade attachments to see if the frame is any good.
                          Richard - SW London, UK, EU.


                          • #14
                            There is a middle ground, maybe

                            So far it seems that the recommendations are: Bandsaw, Sawzall, good hacksaw frame. They all have their place (and I have at least one of each) but don't forget the other option: a heavy duty jigsaw with metal cutting blade. One advantage of these is price, used. A good used Dewalt or Bosch can be as cheap as $40 and will cut up to 1" rod/bar and 1/4" plate (my experience, with mild steel). Also, the cut doesn't have to be in a straight line, which is good if that is what you intend.

                            I have seen heavy truck frame rails routinely notched with just a bosch jigsaw and the right blade/cutting oil combo.

                            The key to this is that you can get deals on used jigsaws since they can be a yardsale item. Blades are not too bad either.

                            If you want to hack shapes out of plate, this could be the ideal choice.

                            Regarding hand hacksaws, high blade tension is always a good thing. My favorite hand hacksaw is a lever tension craftsman of unknown but maybe 1970s vintage. The kind that depend on a wing nut to tighten the blade are more or less crap in my experience.


                            • #15
                              If you mention jigsaws, it is as well to mention that most of the larger die filers would also hold a section of hacksaw, or other saw blade.

                              The patent for the old Milwaukee is really as a saw...... it's a design patent, and shows the saw in the drawings. The Milwaukee I sold had the overarm for that, as well as a roller stop.

                              My Oliver has the overarm for the saw, or a file, just as you please.

                              Keep eye on ball.
                              Hashim Khan