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My old Walker Turner drill press

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  • My old Walker Turner drill press

    I don't know much about it. Old. Floor standing, maybe a 12" swing. Cast iron square table, mabe 12"x12", maybe a little smaller. The table is held in position by friction and a clamp - the pillar has no teeth and there is no mechanical way to raise or lower the table. You get a grip on it, loosen the clamp, grunt it into a new position, and tighten the clamp.

    I will eventually cut my toes off with this.

    Is it typical to add a pulley-and-counterweight to these types of tables?

    Quill needs new bearings too. If I take it apart I'll probably never get it back together so I'm too scart to do it, lol.

    Some a-hole also drilled into the table, too - repeatedly. I can't imagine why. A full half-circle. Drill, rotate the table on the pillar.. drill... rinse repeat. So I think I'll make a new surface for it in the spring. 1/4" steel should do the trick. But not until I have a counterweight on it, it is heave enough! A larger table will also be a LOT easier to clamp to.

    And if I feel extra ambitious, perhaps I'll make a fiberglass or sheet metal belt cover. Totally exposed currently.

  • #2
    Re: Walker Turner DP

    Tony...I had an old WT table model DP at work that had the square table and half circle of drilled "boo boos" like yours does. The boss and I came up with a counterweight system for the table that was dirt cheap and equally simple. We used an old iron sash weight from a window that hung down the center of the column and was suspended by a piece of 1/8" steel cable that traveled over a pulley, mounted on the collar bracket at the top of the column. THe other end of the cable attached to the cross bolt that tightens the table clamp that tightens on the column. That sash weight was just about the same weight as the table. It made all the difference when trying to raise or lower the table while holding the work in place.
    Jim (KB4IVH)

    Only fools abuse their tools.


    • #3
      I travelled 500 miles round trip for a 14" 4 speed, 2 range Walker-Turner bandsaw. It's may well be the most useful or at least frequently used machine in the shop, and I'd really like to find the matching drill press so I can get rid of my 15" Chinese Craftsman.
      "Lay on ground-light fuse-get away"


      • #4

        Build a bracket and mount a jack from an elderly Chev or Ford pick-up truck.
        Works slick, loosen the table clamp and rais or lower table and re-clamp. Did this to my 15inch Clausing with the large/heavy table. As to the holes--You can get some metal filled epoxy and fill all the holes if you can get them clean enough.


        • #5
          i have a clausing drill press in my shop here, and in the past someone took a cannibalized ball screw and attached it to the table. The end of the screw is fixed on a collar attached near the top of the support post, with the nut attached to the table collar. a crank handle through a bevel gear drives the ball screw, and you can raise and lower it nice and easy.


          • #6
            Do you have the chain feature?

            He is a restoration thread and he has a chain to hold the weight to tighten of loosen the table

            It would definitely hurt the toes.


            • #7
              RancherBill, I think the chain is for keeping track of the chuck key (on one end).

              Something as simple as a hose clamp can serve as a safety to keep the table from crashing to the base/toes. Not a bad idea to have one just below the head also. The clamp can be moved easily but keeping it near the underside of the table (or head) is probably best from both a safety point of view (prevents the ram rodding effect of the table on the post/or head on the post) and it can provide a resting point for those times when you want to swing the table/or head to one side for long work.

              Table top divets can be filled with wire weld if you have the wire welder.
              Last edited by Steve Stube; 01-09-2009, 06:26 PM.


              • #8
                I forgot about the collar. There should be one below the table at the least. If you loosen the table or don't get it clamped tight it will go all the way to the bottom and quite often it breaks the casting unless you have your toes as a brake. This is not good for toes. A hose clamp is better than nothing but a nice fitting collar is better. If you don't have a lathe I could be persuaded to make you one (the collar not the lathe)


                • #9
                  My lathe is still not working after a year (I seem to have misplaced my ambition) but I have access to a pal's lathe. The collar seems like a good idea.


                  • #10
                    Definitely make a collar. My Powermatic has a collar under the head, which allows me to loosen the head and swing it to one side, and a collar under the table. I've been thankful for both of those.