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Makin' a Steady

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  • #31
    j king, please check your PM's.

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    • #32
      Looks Like it all Depends On you Scrap Steel Collection

      Bearings are Nice, (Sometimes), If you have them.

      Old School Soft Tipped Fingers Still Work.

      A Shield To Keep Chips Out, should cost ~ .05 Cents.

      You can be as Fancy or Simple as you Want.

      I built my 1'st Steady with a 1/4 inch Drill, and a Hacksaw... All I Had then...

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      • #33
        I'm thinking plungers through the ring on threaded rods with bearings on the ends for fingers. Mig welded construction. But I'd sure like to see and explore whatever else might be out there. Any pics or suggestions?
        I haven't used a roller bearing steady, all the ones I’ve used were brass or bronze pads.....I think I’d go that route as a chip, dirt, grit, will get rolled between a roller bearing and work and pressed into the work as it softer than the bearing race whereas a brass pad will act like a wiper. As was mentioned, there is also a larger area of contact.

        Don't but put off by plain bearings which the pad idea is, from your car engine to machine tools, they're successfully used all over the place. They work very well and are cheap/easy/durable - before i moved from that, I'd be asking myself is it an improvement over how most of the quality engine lathe makers seem to go?
        .

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        • #34
          Originally posted by j king
          pntrbl. Are you going to split the steady in half? If so the ring is going to spring..
          It's gonna go "boing" when I split it? That idea wasn't even on my radar ....

          Plan A is still bearings but if that doesn't work out I'll implement Plan Bronze. I've obviously never used either type but as Mcgyver just kindly pointed out, soft tips have been around forever.

          SP

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          • #35
            Hmmmmmm I came in on this one late. I have never made a steady but I made a follow rest some time ago. It had adjustable fingers with brass tips. There might be some ideas in it that would help you. The link to the post is as follows:

            http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=27810
            Ernie (VE7ERN)

            May the wind be always at your back

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            • #36
              Tipped fingers are fine but the bearings will do much better at high speeds for carbide.You set the bearing fingers and you are pretty much done.Fingers that are tipped are always wearing plus if you run them a little loose you will get chatter. Let the mud fly....

              The fear of chips going thru a roller is slim if you make a guard out of cardboard.Simple.
              Last edited by j king; 01-20-2009, 02:13 PM.

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              • #37
                Paging John Stevenson

                I've not had to deal with this but I would seriously wonder about the wisdom of brass pads on brass. Lube would become *very* critical as brass will friction weld very easily.

                I see Mcgyver's point about roll-stamping the work with swarf, but I think that on softer metals, you could imbed brass in the work. In the sort of work where you have the liberty of later turning down the section where the steady sat to some final dimension, this is a non-issue.

                The other issue with the brass tips on my cheap import lathe is that they are pretty soft and quickly wear to the shape of the current project...which will most certainly not be correct for the next one. On the other hand, the tips are threaded in place and I can make more.

                I'll tell you what I really want is for John Stevenson to start selling just the two laser-cut forms he has showed us here before, as a "starter kit". Shipping a bunch of steel around is not cost effective, but just the two outer forms would be the only hard part for most of us...with the rest of the stuff coming from the scrap box. Those are so well laid out and neatly cut that they should make for a good project starter and a good end result.

                Paul
                Paul Carpenter
                Mapleton, IL

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                • #38
                  How about soft brass/bronze "tires" for your bearings? Combined with a chip guard, seems a good option. Then add "wipers" based on way wipers. Then a cover based on way covers. And an automatic tensioner to handle temperature expansion. And, and...
                  Russ
                  Master Floor Sweeper

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                  • #39
                    There is one drawback to rollers that hasn't been mentioned yet. If they are set too tight, they can roll a groove into the workpiece, a fact that I discovered the first time I used a steady with rollers.
                    North Central Arkansas

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                    • #40
                      Still making progress on my steady, but now that I got 'er spinning we're definitely seeing a stripe. Louder than I expected too.



                      I can't fingernail anything tho and the workpiece is 6061 Alu. You can just about rub the black stripe off with your finger and I'll bet a piece of emery would make it go away completely. Over time tho ... I dunno .....

                      The threads were already there BTW. It's my spindle test piece.

                      SP

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                      • #41
                        If you're doing a lot of the same size piece, make yourself a steel sleeve that just fits over the part, and has some split tapered threads at the end (like a small tap wrench does)... Fit a round nut w/ some holes for tightening
                        and you're set; the wheels will run on steel and there will be no sliding on the Al piece.
                        Bart Smaalders
                        http://smaalders.net/barts

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                        • #42
                          Only just noticed this thread.

                          My TOS has hardened steel running pads, when I first got it I thought that was a stupid idea and would change over to bronze later but in fact they run very well and mark less than the bronze ones on the other steadies.

                          I have about 6 or 7 steadies between three lathes as a lot of my work is steady work.
                          I'll get photo's and post later tonight.
                          .

                          Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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                          • #43
                            Thanx Guys

                            I been challenged by this latest project. Sometimes i just forget stuff. Must be getting Old. LOL anyhow things arent going too vbadly. nEW SHOP STILL NO HEAT . aNYWAYS IM WAITING FOR sIR jOHNS pICTURES. i STILL RECALL A POST OF SOMEONE WHO MADE A STEADY WITH CNC EQUIPMENT OR GOT THE PPARTS LASER CUT AND THEN MACHINED THEM UP. mY LATHE ONLY WILL HOLD A 5 INCH DIA IN THE STEADY IT HAS AND I WANT TO MAKE A NEW MODEL. tHE LATHE IS A tOOLROOM cINCUINATTI lATHE WITH A 15 INCH SWING AND 36 B(oops caplock on LOL) between centers. I need to hols a 8 inch dia min imumn dia or even up to the lathe limits?? if possible thanx to all for youre valuable time and great ideas and tips. Mike

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                            • #44
                              Mike,
                              Will post some pics tomorrow, late here and the workshop is haunted.

                              Got a fair selection between the 3 lathes.
                              .

                              Sir John , Earl of Bligeport & Sudspumpwater. MBE [ Motor Bike Engineer ] Nottingham England.



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                              • #45
                                Me too

                                My SB came without a steady, made this one out of 1" 6061 plate

                                The pads are bronze and I have no problems with marking up the work.Peter
                                The difficult done right away. the impossible takes a little time.

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