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Removing Bearing Races

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  • Removing Bearing Races

    Have a machine spindle with a tapered roller bearing in each end. Need to replace the bearings and races. Both races are truly blind: there is no purchase at all for a drift or anything else to get at their backsides.
    What is the best method for removing these?
    I suppose I could TIG a bridge to them, bit I'm reluctant to do it if there's a better way. Any help is much appreciated.

  • #2
    A crude and messy method we used on commercial mower rollers was to run a bead on the race with the stick welder. The race would ( usually) shrink enough to fall out. The spatter was a problem.
    Atlas 10" with Babbitt bearings
    "How to Run a Lathe", 33rd Edition, 1937
    "Rogers Machinist's Guide" Copyright 1913

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    • #3
      I have been working in heavy industry, and have come up with this problem many times. The best method to use is to run a couple of heavy beads of weld around the inside race of the bearing. When every things cool, the bearing race is smaller 2 - 3 thou and easier to remove. Take your time and be safe.

      Dennis

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      • #4
        http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/...ng_removal.txt
        http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/..._removal_1.jpg
        http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/..._removal_2.jpg
        http://www.metalworking.com/Dropbox/..._removal_3.jpg
        Peter - novice home machinist, modern motorcycle enthusiast.

        Denford Viceroy 280 Synchro (11 x 24)
        Herbert 0V adapted to R8 by 'Sir John'.
        Monarch 10EE 1942

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        • #5
          Freeze them with liquid nitrogen and give them a tap with a center punch. They will shatter like glass.
          Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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          • #6
            Welding a chevron bead around the inside of the race is probably the best method if you can control the splatter. Welding a bar across the racxes so you can knock them out does work. But I have seen the welds break at least half the time. Also if you have a slide hammer weld a couple of screws to the races (threaded end out) and use the slide hammer to tap it out. Another option with screws is to have a bridge above the surface of the housing and draw the race out with a couple of nuts. Liquid nitrogen is a little scarce at the moment, although it is a little chilly out right now.
            Forty plus years and I still have ten toes, ten fingers and both eyes. I must be doing something right.

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            • #7
              Liquid nitrogen is easy to find. Just phone any doctor's clinic and ask which welding supply they get theirs from. Take a stainless steel thermos and have it filled, maybe even for free.
              Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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              • #8
                I don't know what the thing looks like

                but try this first........put a block of metal across ..whatever houses them .. on opposite end, I'm assuming they are in a tube.........keep metal held against it hard ...tap on metal with hammer as hard as you can without damaging anything.

                the shock waves will make the bearing climb out.

                i have done this ..and it does work ..........well it worked on the thing i was working on.........which was an engraver spindle

                all the best.mark

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                • #9
                  Warm the whole thing in an oven..don't go mad...and it might fall out in the oven.


                  If not a squirt with a freeze spray and it will probably fall out ( after oven).


                  If not drill two 3/16" holes in the casting and knock it out after oven.
                  "...do you not think you have enough machines?"

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                  • #10
                    Thanks everyone. I'll try running a bead all around with my TIG. Spatter won't be a problem with that.
                    If that doesn't work, I'll try the liquid nitrogen caper. Frankly even the thought of getting something for nothing from a doctor tempts me to try it.

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                    • #11
                      Once you have welded on the races they probably won't shatter since they will be at least partly annealed.
                      Free software for calculating bolt circles and similar: Click Here

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